=Enigma=

Bottom line is to get it resolved ASAP. The effects of carbon monoxide poisoning are exremely serious, cumulative, can be extremely dehabilitating and in some cases long lasting.

Houston, I see you also left a visitor message in my profile. Andy pretty much hit this one on the head. There are a few things that can lead to this but when we hear the word "cluck" used to describe a noise in the rear on acceleration, we generally think of the front diff mount isolator. This is a rubber mount much like a motor mount and prone to failure due to age or abuse from quick launches etc. These mounts run around $45-50 and are available from several sources such as www.courtesyparts.com, www.blackdragonauto.com, www.nissanparts.cc, ebay, etc.

There are loaner pullers both on here and on hybridz. PM beandip and see if he still has one to loan: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14647

Very true, but I'd still be surprised if it brought that much in. Don't get me wrong, as the owner of one of these cars I'd love to see it bring that much in and more. Just because you wouldn't sell yours for less than a certain amount, doesn't mean that someone would be willing to pay that price. Nobody would pay what I have invested in mine or what I would ask for it, but neither of us is selling so what we'd ask for is irrelevant.

Definitely a nice looking and well preserved car, however I'd be surprised if it sold in the high teens much less the low twenties but I'd love to be proven wrong.

I haven't done this myself, but I see no reason to cut away any more good metal than necessary. Just cut out the rust and and go with the smallest patch necessary to fill the hole.

I love the look of that black Gloria. I've never seen one before. Sweet! Kinda reminded me of the 67 Chevy Nova.

Congrats. You are truly bitten by the bug. I hope your wife appreciates it as much as your son.

I believe this is/was due to the vehicle codes over there. I've seen a few pics of UK 240Z's and you can see the lower turn signal openings in the left & right valence corners blocked off and turn signals bolted to the top of the bumper. That said, the car you saw could just as easily have been a 260Z as those were sold for many years outside of NA. Hard to say without a picture as a reference.

Very nice. You must be stoked to have the car after all those years. I always like to see when Zs are kept in the family and passed down. I hope you take care of it as well as your Mom appears to have done.

Welcome to the board. Sounds like you have a great start on a nice car. Let'd see some pics.

Nice work Julio! I just ripped out my old evaporator unit and was wondering what to do next. Your pics are definitely providing some inspiration.

Wow, this is one of the reasons I love this forum and you guys as well. Thanks for the debate, history lesson, and the entertainment. I'm just soaking all this in an can't wait to see where it takes us. I'm no expert on any of this nor do I have any opinion, just curiosity. In my little world, my Z (or Zed for the rest of the world ) is the most significant Z and nothing will change that for me.

To protect the finish on the freshly blasted valve cover, spray it with a very light coat of clear enamel to seal the pores. Don't go too heavy or it will be glossy and eventually it will yellow and peel from expansion and contraction. Note that this could hilight color or texture inconsistencies in the material but there's not much you can do about that aside from polishing the whole thing to an even shine.

Looks like a great time. Thanks for sharing. Hopefully the hood was open in that one pic for nothing more than a normal fluid check or top-off.

Check out this page for a description of which speedo gears go with which rear end ratios. They are color coded. http://datsunzgarage.com/engine/ You can tell what the ration of your rear end is by reading the numbers on the ring gear and dividing on by the other. For example: 39:10 = 3.90, 39:11 = 3.54, 37:10 = 3.70. This info is also on the page I referenced above.

Anyone going on Saturday? I'll be there around noon with a friend of mine and we may have an extra ticket. I might go Sunday too but wasn't able to score any tickets for that day so I'll have to pony up if I wanna go. Definitely worth it though. PM me if you wanna meet up. I'll be checking e-mail throughout the day.

That was meant as a joke...no need to over analyze this one.

This can easily be solved by using a sleeve between the two plates. This is SOP any time you're bolting through a frame rail like this. Works like a charm.

Impressive. Well it's totally worthless now but at least it's clean.

I'm not sure what you goals are but if you are looking to install a larger than factory rear sway bar, your only option may be to find a set of rear transverse link mount brackets (L-shaped things) with a provision for sway bar mounting. Suspension Techniques sold these with their rear kits and may still do so.

Aww man..... Sounds like a blast. I need a friggin' vacation. Have fun guys.

True on all counts, so very true. My personal favs are the wire wheel and the Craftsman screwdriver. Perhaps because I can directly relate to both.

Assuming the elec fuel pump looks like the one in the attached pic, the bottom just twists off. Try hitting the joint with some penetrant to loosen things up and apply force with a strap wrench or a pair of channel locks if you don't care about the finish. You can also try tapping the base with a small hammer to break it free. I recommend removing the base while still mounted to the car and DO NOT recommend placing it in a vise.

Very nice. I would absolutely love a set of ITBs. I'm going NA with the SUs for now but would like to go to FI at some point, and the ITBs are my first choice.