Arne

Hey! You talkin' 'bout me again?

Can't say about the BD unit as I've never seen one. Dave's connects to the main harness where the right headlight pigtail normally connects. Both headlight pigtails connect to Dave's harness instead. Dave includes a blank sealing plug to cap off the main harness connector for the left headlight. That, an additional ground wire and connecting the power supply wire to the battery is it. Totally simple and trouble-free.

Now that sounds über cool.... :eek:

I once thought so too. Then late last month real life slapped me upside the head a good one to remind me what is truly real. Datsun's a a great diversion, but sometimes the real thing must take precedence.

With stock wiring, my car consistently showed a slight + charge, maybe 5 amps at most. It bounced around that point a bit with the original points-type regulator, much more steady with the internal regulator in the ZX alternator.After the relay installation (I have both the headlight and tail light relay harnesses), the ammeter is the same as before with the lights off, a very slight + charge. With the lights on , it hovers higher, probably around +15 or so. Bear in mind that these readings are from a car in excellent condition, and that is driven regularly. A significant + charge is normal if your battery is a bit low from sitting unused or such. But once the battery is charged, the regulator should deliver output just slightly in excess of the total load. When the load changes, the charge should quickly step up to match. That's why you will see a quick jump and return of the needle when you step on the brakes or something similar increases the load.

Yeah, but it'd be a long drive home so I could be a work on Tuesday morning...

My stock 40 amp alternator lives in safe storage, sitting besides such parts as the original metal fan, date-coded plug wires, gray-green distributor cap, Koito headlights, AM radio and antenna, etc. Nice to have, but not used in normal driving.

Here's a different thread that gives some additional info on this. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=30584&highlight=throttle+bell+crank

The 240Z throttle linkage is rather bad this way even under the best of conditions. Adjusting the rods may help some, but the real answer is to modify the bell-crank to try to eliminate the over-center action of the linkage. Here's one thread documenting this modification - I searched for "throttle bell crank" to find it. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=12946&highlight=throttle+bell+crank

One thing to bear in mind that is rarely mentioned - either of these harnesses will cause your ammeter to read well to the + side when the lights are on. This is because the current draw from the lights is now coming from the battery directly, and not passing through the ammeter. So the ammeter sees the increased output from the alternator to compensate for the draw, but doesn't see the corresponding draw. No way around this that doesn't compromise the intent of the harnesses. So don't sweat it when you see this after installing one of these harnesses.

The period Oregon plate on the rear is great, but it's not original to the car, so it likely was not originally sold in Oregon. A blue plate that starts with "L" indicates a November registration. No way that car made it here and registered by the end of November, 1969. The second letter being an "H" seems to be a bit later to me also. Probably a '72 or perhaps '73 issue plate. Not a big deal - the blue plate on mine is a bit later than would be correct for the original, too. I'd love to see it in person if I was going to be in the McMinnville-Newberg area.

From the same site as the terminals:http://www.remybattery.com/Departments/Cable--Accessories/Terminal-Protectors--Boots.aspx

If you had followed the link to the site in the first post and actually looked at the listings there, you would have seen that for each style and each wire gauge, there are both positive and negative part numbers.

You should be able to get generic replacement studs at most any parts house for just a few cents each. I'd recommend using new ones.

In addition, the original positive cable had a rubber cover that insulated the the entire terminal. It's a bit of a pain to have to pry the cover back if you want to service the connection.

That's my plan - a 2 1/4" system, resonator in the center, and probably a Magnaflow at the rear. Looking at using a Magnaflow 11148, that's a small single inlet, dual outlet muffler that might lend itself nicely to the dual stacked tips, if I can find tips that fit the way I want.

Not much being built like that these days. See this thread for more info on the old stuff - http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34920 I'm looking into trying to have something similar custom built. Not quite there yet.

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Looks like it is still available from Nissan, to me. The original part number was 55460-E8300, later superseded by 55460-N4700. Both Courtesy and NissanParts.cc show the later number, at around $55.

For North American cars, the '73 bumper is different in virtually all parts. The bumperettes are much larger and mounted farther apart, closer to the mounting brackets. I believe the bumper bar parts are a bit larger as well.

We must bear in mind that the 280Z version was the first generation of space-saver spare - the collapsed inflatable one. These require a source of compressed air to inflate, and there is generally very little storage room for anything larger than the very small overall diameter of the collapsed spare.

I guess I never posted mine....

Pretty simple. Mike hasn't paid to renew it.

Stock was 86mm bore and 79mm stroke. This gave 2753cc displacement. You now have a bore of 86.75mm. Running it through the calculator gives me a new displacement of 2802cc. As for the compression, what head, and has it been shaved at all?