Arne

Gary, you and I have corresponded also, even though we've not yet met in person. I'm in Springfield, but my '71 240Z (919 yellow) won't be ready for the road for several months, at least.

I used to change struts for a living, I've literally done thousands. What you pictured is totally normal. The gland nut should not bottom out on the strut housing, instead it should tighten down on the strut cartridge itself. In fact, some companies (Monroe, for one) used to pack big washers to go under the gland nut in case it bottomed on the housing before cinching down on the cartridge.

I feel out of place in this thread. I don't even have one full matching set yet! My '71 came with five 14" slotted mags. The fronts are 14X6 with 0 offset (unknown brand), the rears are 14X6 with about 3/4" negative offset (different unknown brand) and the spare is 14X5.5 with 0 offset (Western). Someday I'll get a matching set of something, but I've got a lot more important things to worry about right now.

I was planning on the oil pressure shut off as well, I've had other cars that came from the factory with that system, seems to work well. As for the pressure, they make the same pump in a 1.5-4 PSI version as well. I just wonder if that would be enough. Not that trust them entirely, but I note that MSA sells a Holley pump that they say has a 7 PSI max as well. Bryan Little's site recommends 3-5 PSI. My problem is mainly that I want to get the pump as cheaply as I can, to save money for more fun parts.

Any feedback on this one? I've read that they are a bit noisy if they are rigidly mounted, but fairly quiet if rubber mounted. Obviously looking at the 4-7 PSI model. The brand is Facet, the model name is Posi-flow, and the one I'm looking at it the 4-7 PSI model on the far right.

Search the forums. Lots of threads about this.

Only two you-pull-its in Eugene, neither has any old RX7s in the yard. (Or so they say.) The other yards all want too much for this item. That $35 new one looks like a good alternative, it's very small, very simple and is rated at 4-7 PSI. Its small size makes it look like it would be simple to mount, probably not too hard to find rubber mounts for it. They also have an identical model that is 1.5-4 PSI. I may stop back by and get the brand and model. My only question about it is noise. I've got some time to figure it out, in my case. There are still a couple of other parts I need to gather before the carbs go back on it. (Heat shield, return springs, choke cable and of course, the pump.)

Yeah, I made a few calls to local Eugene area yards today. Most didn't have any RX7 pumps, and those that did wanted $45 and up for them. I found a really tiny new aftermarket pump rated at 4-7 PSI for $35 and one of the local parts places. That may be the way I end up going if I can't find an affordable Mazda unit. Don't know how noisy it might be though...

It's a 510, and I don't think that it is a factory color.

An interesting thought - does the car just die like there's too much drag, or die suddenly like the ignition was switched off? I'm not sure about a '73, but most early Z's activate the headlights by switching the ground, not switching the hot leads. If there is something shorted or misconnected in the column or fusebox area, turning on the headlights could ground out the feed to the coil. Something to consider...

In my experience, stainless mufflers seem to have a tinnier sound than similar mild steel mufflers. I'm not an expert, so I can't say why that should be, but I've seen it time and time again.

That page loaded right up for me just now. Very fast page, I might add. I didn't see any Hitachi carb info there, and the paint chips have moved to: http://zhome.com/History/ZColorGallary/index.html

Makes sense, I think you're right. What emissions engineers call "drop throttle" conditions are one of the biggest sources of tailpipe emissions. Hopefully Nissan's solution on the early Z will be less annoying than that of my '96 BMW 328i with a manual transmission - the engine management system on that car holds the engine RPM for 2 seconds before allowing it to drop slowly. Highly annoying when shifting.

Yeah, I rented the full trailer from U-Haul when I picked up mine (with an automatic). The dolly would have been cheaper, but I didn't want to pull the driveshaft, nor did I trust the steering lock enough to tow it backwards. The trailer worked well.

If it is a manual transmission, I don't think it will hurt it. But if it is an automatic, it will probably be toast by the time you get there.

OK, that makes sense. I guess I've not yet seen a picture with the decel dashpot on it. Thanks all.

OK, that's the one. My eyes must be getting bad, I had gone to ZTherapy's site and could have sworn that the linkages pictured there didn't have it. Of course, when I go back today and really stare at them,now I see it. So I just let it rattle around there?

My SUs arrived yesterday. A decent set of 4 screw round-tops on E88 manifolds. After searching and studying old posts and pictures, I think I've got it all figured out - what connects where and such. But I noticed that the center linkage between my carbs doesn't look like other pictures, it seems to have an extra lever near the front carb. (See pics below.) Would this have perhaps been for the optional hand throttle?

On the opposite end of the spectrum, here's the auction where I just scored some clutch parts - as an eBay seller sometimes you get lucky, sometimes you you get hosed. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=8005852303

No, he started them at $1.00. The $500 price was what they bid! In fact, look at the bid history - two different people were willing to pay $500 for those lights. Now I will admit that they appear to be better than mine, the chrome strips were described has having some pitting. Mine are not just pitted, but peeling. And one of my chrome strips is broken as well. But other than that, mine are probably just as good. No way I'd pay that much for those.

Shoot, the ratty ones in my car must be worth $250-300 then! That's nuts! :stupid:

Thanks to you both. As for the heat riser, I won't be using one at all, since I will still have the cast exhaust manifold from the ZX on it for the foreseeable future. One thing at a time.

I'm gathering the parts to get rid of the injection on my 71 240Z (installed with the L28), and have a couple more questions: My carbs arrived today (4 screw round tops on an E88 manifold set). I'm going to need a heat shield. Will any heat shield ('70-74) work? Or do I need one that came with round tops? Also, I'm going to go to the local pick-n-pull to find an RX7 fuel pump. Anyone know where Mazda mounted these units? Underneath, near the tank, I assume?

Thanks for reminding me, I'm going to need that as well. Not sure how soon I'll have all the parts gathered up, but I will be installing a '71 4 speed box, Ty. If you still have that later down the road, I may be in touch. But for now, if it will work for Shane, he's got dibs.

I agree, the Webers and the early front bumper together are worth more than what you paid for the car. Good luck with the rust repair. Yours looks worse than mine, but I think it can be salvaged. I've been told the best replacement floors come from Zedd Findings in Canada.