Arne

If you have enough money/time/skill, anything can be done. But for the real world answer, there are several differences in frame, body and mountings that make it difficult, but not impossible to do.

Offset and rim width are both measured based on the rim seating surfaces, which is the spot where the bead of the tire sits. Those are 7" apart, and if the offset is zero, the hub mounting surface is centered between the two bead seats. The backside is measured differently. It is measured from the hub mounting surface to the inner bead lip. The difference comes from the fact that the bead lips are typically .5" thick. So for example, if you measure a 7" wheel from the outside bead lip to the inside lip, it will have an overall width of 8 inches, not 7. So a 7" wheel with zero offset, a 4" backside is correct. It just sounds funny.

There used to be a dark blue Fairlady in Eugene, Oregon some years back. No flares, but definitely right hand drive, and still had the fender mirrors. Haven't seen it for a while, don't know what happened to it.

You'd have to replace the backing plates, return and hold-down hardware too.

There were no physical differences (as far as I have been able to determine) between cars sold in California and the rest of the country. So if they have no proof, there is likely no way at all to tell. And even on later cars that had both CA and 49 state variations, the CA versions were often sold in other parts of the country as well, depending on supply and demand.

The early '71 that I will be picking up in a few weeks has an injected L28 in it, from an '83 280ZX. I strongly suspect that I will end up converting it back to SUs, but I may have differing goals for my car than you have for yours. Anyway, if you'd like, once I have the car in my possession, I can assess the injection and take some pictures for you if you'd like.

It is difficult for an average guy to get really high quality results. It is important that all six combustion chambers have the same volume (within a very small tolerance) to get good results. Similarly, all the ports should be very uniform. This is exceedingly difficult to do with hand tools in the garage. I myself would leave it to the pros with the proper equipment.

I knew that comment would draw some flak...

I'm still shopping for my 240, and any color (as long as it's original) will be fine. For a while I thought I'd prefer orange, but now I'm leaning toward 919 yellow as my favorite.

I'm in a similar boat, same background, but looking for a project, not a ready-to-drive car. I posted a similar question a while back (http://classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18300) and came to the conclusion that for a driver, there's no reason not to get a 260. If you want a "collector" car, buy a 240, the earlier the better.

Agreed. I had this done with an old MG that I restored ground up. A year and a half later I had a $4000 dollar claim on it, they never said a word, just paid to have it fixed. I highly recommend that anyone who has a nice older Z get it appraised. I think I paid about $100 for the appraisal.

I have used a vinyl/plastic paint called SEM on hard plastic trim, with excellent results. It requires a special cleaner for prep, and bonds very well to the plastic. Don't know if they make white, however. Look for it at upholstery supply houses, or automotive body and paint supply houses.

I'm going to look at a '71 automatic this weekend. If I buy it I will convert to a four or five speed, and will likely need a new console, so I might be interested as well.

Sure did. Also noticed (pictures I didn't post) that the door hinges on that door are white. I am assuming that one or both of them failed, causing the door ugliness.

Yeah, I noticed that also. Didn't get much response from a previous post on that subject. (http://classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?p=141159#post141159) Haven't decided what I'll do about that if I buy the car. Leave it be? Find a series I hatch? Add the series I vents to the existing hatch?

Yes, new to Z cars, but not to restorations and rust repair. I've done my research, both here online and also in printed Z-car specific books. So I have a good idea where to look for rust issues. This car is 300 miles away, so I will have to travel to assess it. Here in the Pacific NW, there's no road salt used, so rust is a little less common than elsewhere. This car looks to have lived in these parts all its life, and the only obvious spots in the pictures I have so far is the two front fenders. But I haven't seen under the battery, or the hatch tray yet. Frame rails and floors are reputed to be solid. (We'll see.) A couple other pictures...

I haven't bought this car yet, thought I'd ask for advice. What can I expect to find under this fender?

There's a lot more to handling than just the skidpad numbers. Lighter car is crisper and more responsive. Skidpad can't tell that.

I agree totally. I haven't found my Z yet, but I'd say that chances are better than 90% that it will be a 240.

I'm still looking for the first one. Unfortunately, I need something a bit more complete than that one.

Here's another good possibility, but Seattle is even farther away. http://seattle.craigslist.org/car/92410036.html

Let me clarify. The car I'm looking at is titled as a '71 with an automatic. I haven't seen it in person yet. The seller is going to send me the VIN, but hasn't yet. The pictures make two things clear - 1.) the car has the early emblems on the C pillar; and 2.) the hatch has no vents and is not original (dark blue hatch on pale yellow car). My best guess is that it is a late Series I car, with a Series II (or later) hatch. My goal for this car would be as a clean, mostly stock daily driver. Absolute originality is not needed, or even desired. (The auto WILL be replaced by a 4 or 5 speed.) I have no problems having with the non-vented hatch if it doesn't seriously affect the ventilation adversely. Since good Series I hatches must be getting a bit scarce these days, I figure someone must already have this setup. I'm just wondering if I should be concerned. If I get this car, should I start looking for a vented hatch?

I'm looking at another 240. (Not in person, just pictures so far.) This one is (apparently) an early '71 with an automatic. My question is that it has the early emblem on the C pillar - the one with the "240Z" logo. I understand that emblem was only used on the cars with the vents in the hatch as opposed to the vents under the emblem. My question? If I assume that the car does not have vents in the C pillar, then it needs them in the hatch. And the hatch on this car is not original and has no vents. So how important are the vents to the ventilation system? And is it possible that this '71 could have had the early emblems covering the vents? Should I even care? Arne Still Z-less in Oregon

Hmm, the goal for the 240Z that I don't yet have (got a couple I'm looking at) is more pedestrian. I'm going to want period correct mods, yes. But I'll be looking for period US market mods, not the home market of Fairlady stuff. Things like a Spook spoiler, period wheels, etc. Much more affordable stuff, it sounds like.

Are the driveshaft and transmission mounts the same?