Jump to content

IGNORED

Strut assembly ?


mriz

Recommended Posts

I took out the rear shock , back end would kick out when hitting bumps.So I figure bushings and shocks are in order. I pulled out a tokico (suprise)which didn't look too old but I don't know how long it's been in there and wondering if I even needed new ones at this point.When I put the new Kyb one in I can't tighten down the retainer any further. Should I grind down cap on the bottom of the cartridge or is it ok the way it is ? Also should this cure the kick out problem or are springs in order?

post-5894-14150796027468_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites


The rears are 2 inches longer than the fronts, seems kinda silly to think he can't figure out which is which. If there is a sleeve on the bottom you can grind it down a bit. If you make it too short then the gland nut will bottom out and there won't be any pressure on the strut itself. So it will slide up and down inside the tube. If that happens throw a washer under the strut to shim it up until you get the threads where you want them.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

allright, just finished the right front KYB strut install and have the same exposed thread problem. doesn't seem right but gland nut is cranked down as much as possible. i guess with this flavor of strut that's the most it will go. i'm going to email KYB and see what they say.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Did you get NEW gland nuts (Strut housing cap) when you ordered the new struts? Reason I ask is, when I got mine it had a fat angled washer on the inside of the cap. I found that it was removable but kept mine in. My bolt also did not go down all the way but more than enough teeth made their way into the housing. I have a 70' 240Z so we may be talking apples and oranges.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I used to change struts for a living, I've literally done thousands. What you pictured is totally normal. The gland nut should not bottom out on the strut housing, instead it should tighten down on the strut cartridge itself. In fact, some companies (Monroe, for one) used to pack big washers to go under the gland nut in case it bottomed on the housing before cinching down on the cartridge.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If I remember correct, there IS abig diff between the KYB and the Tokico's.

The KYB are for the stock springs and the tokicos are for "LOWERED" springs. You could have lowered springs all around, but hope they didnt modify the tubes!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

dave,

looks like the same setup, eibachs and kyb gr2's. new gland nuts came with struts and i did notice the fat angled washer inside. i put a coating of antiseize on the strut tube inner threads since the exposed threads have got to corrode eventually.

tbk1, stock strut tubes, eibach prokit. only noticed about 1/4-1/2" lower in spring height.

i've got an email out to kyb and i'll post what they say, if anything.

thanks for the double-check, arne. just wanted to make sure i didn't miss something stupid. have to call this normal then.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

When I replaced the struts on my 240Z, Tokico specified that about 1/8" of threads should show. Mine bottomed out using the provided shims. I went to the local hardware store and bought extra spacers that fit well with clearance for the strut rod. It all worked great. If you have enough engaged threads that you feel it is solidly engaged, just go with it and be confident it is correct.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

here's whatt i sent to KYB;

Subject: Strut install

I purchased 361002/361001 struts for my 1971 Datsun 240z. Installed

361002 front struts, tightened gland nut to proper torque. I found that

I still had about 1/4-3/8" exposed threads on the gland nut between the nut and top of strut tube. The nut will not bottom out on the tube. I also

know of at least 3 other car club members who have run into the same

thing.

Is this acceptable and normal for this application?

Thanks,

KYB's reply;

Our nut will not bottom out like the oems.

Our nut will use 3/4 of the threads on this model

i didn't get 3/4 of the threads, but i am comfortable with it based on the feedback from the guys here.

thanks all,

bart

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Privacy Policy and Guidelines. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.