Arne

I've had a total of three '71 240Zs. One nice, one project, one crushed.

Yes, it sounds like your alternator died. The car was running totally off the battery. Eventually, the battery was too low to supply adequate power to the ignition. Had you gone much farther the car would have died completely.

Tri Mil is a known brand specializing in air-cooled VW exhausts. Looks like they may have been the people behind the old Targa brand of Z exhausts, too.

240Zs have recesses in the lower quarter behind the wheel for the rear bumper. I know that at least some years of 280Zs do not have those recesses.

Looks like that was more fun than I had rebuilding the red car's transmission on Saturday. (Especially since I'm not done with it yet.) I'll have to watch for the next Datsuns NW gathering.

Western is only one makers of this 'turbine' style wheel. They were also made by Superior, ET and others. Every brand differed slightly, in the width and number of spokes. Lots were made, so do a bit of hunting, they are out there.

Made in the '70s and '80s by several different companies. They will all be 14" wheels ranging from 5.5" to 7" wide. None of them are still made anymore, so your only option is to watch for a used set that can be cleaned up nicely. Try craigslist for starters.

Not sure what exactly you are looking for, but for starters try these two links: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/240Z http://zhome.com/

And as you may have figured out from Dave's specs, the spring rates are definitely different front to rear.

And a large number of 240Zs have rusted to scrap by now. The potential market is far too small to justify the investment.

Randy, who are you getting the butterscotch seat covers from?

Let me add that at least in '71, step 5 should read, "Some of the tape is pulled off". Much of my car's tape is/was still there, covered with paint and undercoat.

The code 110 is called Red, but was more properly described as a very orangy-red, or Persimmon. Over the years, many of these Persimmon color cars have faded to the point that they are indistinguishable from 918 orange. Similarly, my '71 is 903 Red, which was a much truer red color. Yet it has faded to the point that it can not be told apart from the later persimmon color. This could explain your problem. Check for an orangy-red color inside the tool compartments.

One of my main goals in designing the plug was that the process be 100% bolt-on, no wiring mods needed, and the whole affair be 100% reversible in case you ever wish to go back to stock. If that's not important, certainly splicing the wires will work fine. Nothing magic about the plug.

Carl, I'm confused. On all of my Z's (one Series 1 and two Series 2s), from 'run' the next position is 'acc' and then 'off'. So your description of pausing at 'off' before continuing to 'acc' or 'lock' doesn't make sense. Or are the ignition switches in a '73 that much different? I thought the late '71-73 were all the same.

Thanks, Brian. 100% correct. I do host the info page listed above on my website, but Dave is the man.

Will, the N47 has bigger valves, which won't work with an L24 block unless the bores are notched for clearance, or it has been bored at least .040". Other than that, I should think the N47 would be fine.

I don't think the centers were originally painted at all, just raw cast aluminum. As for restoration, check out this thread: http://classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=20025&highlight=libres

Duplicate post deleted.

Outstanding! Congratulations! Now you can begin showing it off on the road like we do over here.

And as a final point, $600 for a set of ZTherapy rebuilts is probably cheaper than a new Holley and the required manifold. Cheaper, and much easier to set up, as you'll be starting from scratch on the Holley, whereas the SUs will be ready for fine-tuning and that's all.

Yup, that's it. This forum's moderators have been rather lenient on this rule. Try posting something like this in the discussion or technical area of many forums and the post will get deleted in no time. Do it more than once and you're likely to get suspended or booted.Now me personally, I like the more laid back attitudes here. But maintaining that means that we users must voluntarily obey the rules, even if - as correctly noted - our ads don't get viewed as much in the proper location. If we don't, the only two end results are heavy moderation, or anarchy and the resultant loss of forum usefulness.

KYB specifically says that their GR2 cartridges are NOT for use with lowering springs. I ignored that warning once before with a different brand of car, and the results were very bad. The KYBs do not have enough damping to control the increased loads that the higher spring rates and reduced shock travel cause. I'd recommend a set of Tokico shocks, and probably trimming the bump stops by 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch.

They won't interchange with out the 280Z hub as well. Use the 280Z rotor only and the caliper won't line up properly. Or so I've been told, never seen the 280Z parts in person.