Arne

I can't remember if this is the exact model I used, or is the replacement. Kenwood KFC-1352S, I bought mine from Amazon as no one local stocked such a basic unit.

Well, both are great Z choices, and you can't go wrong with either one. I still prefer the LeMans look myself, but since I no longer have a Z, my opinion doesn't count for much. Wheel choices for the Porsche are much simpler - NOTHING looks right on a 911 except Fuchs, either original or replicas.

One thing to bear in mind - most of the different available "brands" of fuel pumps for the 240Z today are simply re-boxes of either the Airtex or the Kyosan. The trick is to determine which one is actually in the box. Also, there's no guarantee that what's in the box will always be the same. It's definitely a pain to deal with.

Stephen, Panasports are nice, but the LeMans are far, far less common. No way I could go back to Panasports if I had your car.

The Kenwoods were one of the few I found that would fit. You can't use a speaker that has a protruding tweeter back there, the plastic panel sits too close to the speaker.

The single speaker in the 240Z was on the left side, as shown here (with a Kenwood speaker in the stock bracket): I re-bent a second stock bracket to put a second speaker on the right side (same Kenwood installed):

The other Carter pump (M60107) appears to be the original style, not the Airtex. There are also occasional eBay listings for the original style pumps.

Thread resurrected again! I've got a pair of nice tail light harnesses for Series 1 240Z - i.e. through 12/70 production or so. The Series 1 harnesses use larger terminals and connectors than the later 240Z, so these are not compatible with later cars. $6 shipping (within the US) and they are yours.

Sweet setup, Rosco!

3.0Ω coil should not have the ballast resistor connected, and if you have a condenser connected to the coil, remove it. I had that problem due to having a condenser connected to the coil.

Rob, there is an online spreadsheet for VINs at http://www.editgrid.com/user/mlwilliams/Z_Car_Registry and there are numerous "retired" cars listed there. FWIW, the vented hatches (and all the rest of the Series 1 stuff) ran through VIN ~20000 or so. Some of the cars right around that point had a mixture of Series 1 & 2 parts. The vertical defroster grid ran part-way through the '72 model year.

Mike, I'm a subscriber to this mag, you're welcome to swing by and borrow it. I will want it back, however. Give me a call when you're in town.BTW, the article also profiles Datsun Roadsters and Hakosuka Skyline GTR in addition to the 240Z.

No, there are significant dimensional differences between the early and late strut inserts. I wouldn't mess with them. The correct KYBs aren't all that expensive.

I'd guess those are quite rare here in the US. I've never seen a set in person before, and after almost 25 years in tires/wheels here on the West coast, I've seen a lot of unusual wheels. I've never been a fan of most of the true JDM wheels, but those aren't half bad. Nice find!

I'm not certain how bad yours is, but my switches were very comparable to other import cars of that era. Very similar to my MGB, for example. Certainly didn't bother me.

What he said. Strip it naked. I removed everything external. Made for a very nice job.

OK, that being the case, I think the ground to the left blinker is bad. With the lights off, the blinker is grounding by feeding back through the parking light circuit. Turn on the lights, and there is suddenly no place to complete the circuit. Check the ground at that light closely.

What E said. You can get away with the marker housing grounding out to the fender with stock wiring, but to do the blinker trick the metal housing must not have a ground path. the housing needs to be correctly mounted in the groove in the rubber base gasket, and the mounting screws must not touch the side of the hole where they pass through the housings. If you remove the marker from the car with the wires connected and it works properly, you definitely have a grounding issue.

I suspect the Koni's have a firmer ride than either stock or KYB, even on the softest setting. So they may not be the ideal choice for a stock car, regardless of price.As an aside, $500 seems like a lot to do 4 strut inserts on a 240Z. I can do a set of 4 in my garage in about 2-1/2 hours. Granted, not everyone is equipped to do this at home, but I can't imagine it taking a shop any longer than that.

Koni Classic are still non-gas, I believe. Part numbers 86-1811 & 86-1812.

In my experience, the original vinyl is generally too old and brittle to re-sew successfully. YMMV, however.

I agree. Beandip is running a P79 w/liners on an L28 in his 240Z, runs strong.

I can't imagine getting consistent and good RTs w/o power braking.

Jon, I seem to recall that early (small-shaft) ball joints were available again. Search around a bit before you buy later knuckles.

The "coupe" is/was really a targa-type with a removable roof panel. No room to stow the roof panel in the car though, so you had to plan ahead. The targa was only available in the Pontiac version. I personally prefer the styling of the Saturn or Opel versions over the Pontiac, but even so none of them are something I would actually buy.