sideshowbob

Sweeeeet. Can't wait to see it.

Checking the level will tell you whether or not coolant level is low Check it whenever you suspect a blown head gasket, cracked block or more mundane things like bad hoses or gaskets. Check it to make sure your next drive isn't your last. Check it just to be safe. JUST CHECK IT (Once a week)

There's no welding that can be done in that circumstance?

Anyone know of a repair method for aluminum rims? My wife dropped by a tire shop today with one of my rims/tire and the tech told her the rim itself was leaking due to some corrosion. He replaced the valve stem and chipped off the oxide (free!) and it's apparently leakless now (checked in a tub at the shop). I ask because I forsee more difficulties in the future with the (ZX gold cross) wheels and would like to know what I'll be up against when it comes time to refresh them.

This amazes me. According to the link above, the 240z had 'crumple zones' 25 years before the advertising gimmicks. Then again, maybe it doesn't surprise me. The marketing departments have always been keen on buzzwords.

Make sure to double check the radiator coolant level.

Condensation.

PS guage. There's one in-store here.

harbor freight now carries one, cheap.

I was kidding about that, you'll have a difficult time kicking the relay (as opposed to the control unit).

Kick the relay :rambo:

Burnt valve.

Good point! Hadn't thought about the relay for FI. It could very well be the problem, difficult to diagnose from an intermittent failure! I think this is why someone re-wired my FP to run whenever they key is 'on'.

My fault, you're right. I'm stuck in my car. How's the voltage meter reading when the problem occurs? Do you HAVE a voltage meter?

Can you do me a favor? List everything you've done with the car (prefferably in order) to fix the problem. We'll go from there.

The box, on a 280z, next to your left foot. Kick it. I'm having doubts about that being the problem, but it's worth a shot.

I forget, have you replaced the voltage regulator, cleaned its connector?

Start the car, drive it a bit and kick the ECU. If it dies, you have a cold solder joint. Have someone handy nearby who can help push, just in case!

There's an entire z-club here in San Antonio, their web site is www.z-sport.com. There's monthly meetings and such. Haven't been to one, being a bit antisocial, but maybe sometime.

Try the opposite side of the car, under the hose. The brake booster is on the opposite side for US models, but the VIN may be in the same location (the passenger side in your case).

Wire brush the scale before you begin. If you're enterprising, remove, clean and clearcoat it before reinstallation.

Did you set the TVS correctly? Valve adjust? Compression check? Plug wires /dist cap/ rotor. Leave the dial on the back at 0. You're trying to line up the mark on the pulley with 7 on the timing scale to get the number you're talking about. I do believe, however, that you should be setting it at 10 degrees, not seven.

These are great, thanks!

Loose plug wires?

What was in the tune up? Sometimed the cap/rotor can have problems quickly as well. Check your timing.