sideshowbob

Is it possible to have the L28's cylinders sleeved to compensate for excessive wear/boring? I understand this is regular fare for diesels, but the gas engines?

Weatherstrip adhesive....just a guess you understand.

I don't want to ask for it if I can't use it, though I really appreciate the offer Mr. Smith. I'd rather it could go to someone who can. Is your version the one with a 2.4 or 2.8 litre engine?

Is that an l24? I was under the impression it was an l28....

Sure, I'll take it. Mines trashed.

PS: What's VB? EDIT: Victoria British, oops and I have their catalog here somewhere too! Edit#2: 60$ for that little peiec of crap?!?!?! This is highway rubbery. I'll get back to you when I've come up with a method to repair my old one with liquid electical tape or bubble gum.

It's ok, I just don't want him wrecking a perfectly good motor (had I been a bit more careful with the flooding, mine might still be salveagable. Still not entirely sure if it was the injectors leaking down or the AFM or what, really). Err, how did you know my name?

http://autorepair.about.com/library/glossary/bldef-626.htm

Let me reiterate: THE VACUUM ADVANCE PLUG IN TO PORTED VACUUM WHICH IS SUPPOSED TO BEHAVE THE WAY YOU DESCRIBED IT. LEAVE IT THERE. Ok, that is all. Thank you.

Jmortensen - Ported vacuum, PORTED VACUUM is higher when the throttle plate opens. It it the opposite of MANIFOLD VACUUM.

Nononono. The vac advance helps improve your idle gas consumption. Your car runs with less gas and therefore needs retarded timming at idle, otherwise detonation can occur. On acceleration, more fuel is dumped in and the advance can be increased for more power. Where did you find a new vac module? I need one! The vacuum off the carb is called 'ported vacuum' and is usually the opposite of your regular manifold vacuum. More throttle=move butterfly opening=more vacuum. Hooking up the advance to the manifold vac is a BAD idea.

Yeah, the clunk...... I hate that part. When I replaced the U-Joints, even the driveshaft lost all of it's slight play (?!?!?!?!). http://ironlizard280z.blogspot.com/

Temp sensor, thermotime and fuel pressure first.

Why not? It's the next logical step up from this:

If you're really worried about the tank clogginf, drain the gas from the plug and see what plops out, it can't hurt (besides the waste of a few gallons at today's prices) and will give you a clear idea of what's in that sucker. If you decide it's worth it, you can have a radiator shop boil it out (before you drop the tank: call first!!). Right now: You seem to have run the engine a bit so.... take out the fuel filter and tap the inlet (from tank side) over a sheet of white paper. See what falls out. The fuel pump not kicking in may also be the contacts in the AFM not touching during turn over. This can be because they're old and worn out (check out the AFM page) or because your motor's not sucking enough vacuum to trigger them (they are triggered by the AFM flap opening, as you've no doubt noticed). Could also be the EFI relay, this can be tested at you local autozone, free (mine is wire to always kick in with the key in the 'on' position, bypassing all safety from the AFM and the relay and no, I didn't do it). You'll need to get a copy of the Z EFI Bible and run through the tests one by one to really know what you're up against. (Available at the above site, under EFI) Pardon if I've recovered anything, I forget. Those gas fumes are a killer.......

That G3 was actually (and is still) used on an EFI 280z.

Oddly enough, the fuel level indicator opening looks roughly the same size and has the same type of locking mechanism (interlocking rings) as the one in my Olds '88. In-tank high flowing pump, anyone? Maybe I'll have a chance to compare them side by side one day, but I hope not.

http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fuel/gastank/index.htm And the whole list of 'em is here: http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/ This is without a doubt the most picture oriented reference to the Z I've ever found.

I like this one: http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fuel/g3filter/index.htm You could put this before or after the pump, I suppose. It really does sound to me as if your pump isn't getting enough juice at times, especially considering the hot fusible link you mentioned. I would really check those wires because you'll probably have to eventually anyway. Just my 2c.

The pump may not be getting power intermittently. See above.

You might want to remove the spark plugs after the pressure bleeds down to see if you have leaky fuel injectors. Also: There are four white wires running from the fusible link boxes that join together in some wierd factory splices. These corrode and cause problems similar to what you're describing. Great time to upgrade your fusible link box.

Rat rod awaiting new f54 block, it's five colors (more???) and rusty but still fun when I can get it out. I'll be happy with one color and some repairs to make it solid again.

Depends, do you have the original Z pump or an aftermarket type? Mine has no strainer, but looks completely different from a stock pump and there is no provison for one. Your new pump will include one if it's the OEM type.

That wasn't me, btw. That's the atlantic Z club's site. Don't give up just yet. The pump will probably have to go, but you can still try to get it to prime. Heck, leave the car out on a hot day and the pressure in the tank will prime it for you. 1 - Get a spare fuel filler cap and insert a fitting for an air compressor or Inject fuel into the pump through the inlet line using a big syringe (being a bit nuts I would do this while the pump was running, just to check it out) then reattach the hose to the tank. 2 - Stick the AFM's air flap open to enable the pump 3 - Turn on the ignition (Don't crank) 4 - Pump should run for a while (2-3 minutes) then remove the AFM block 5 - Check pressure You could also just tear the whole thing apart and try to see whats up with a PC power supply while sucking cleaner up through a hose and the outlet in an empty container or some such..... nevermind. Just try not to blow up, ok?

I really haven't the time to go through the whole post, but you've checked the fuel pump inlet screen, right? http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fuelpump/index.html (Also- how to quiet the pump)