sideshowbob

Ignition and fuel system are the first place to check (after cleaning all the connections, of course). Have you done your basic tune-up?

Haven't attempted to use it yet, but I hear good things about it. I honestly don't think it will clean up the deposits I have right now by itself, however. I'm still scraping gasket right now but I'll hopefully get back to this tomorrow after changing out the starter in the Olds (died again this morning). I so badly want to remove the head and look inside but I'll be adding an unacceptable element of risk to my, already somewhat shady, work if I do so. The mess I create will attract far too much attention at the moment. Strange how many offers I get for the beast even though it never seems to move. I'll post the results later for #$#@% and giggles. I still need to remove the headers, clean the intake, replace the TB (new springs thrown together with a ground-plate block off for the bcdd) ect, ad nauseum.

Ok, maybe a bit longer than that but no much driving. See here: http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=18405 I keep finding things that 'might' account for it but no certainties yet.

About two months ago it was 170-180.

Anyone recognize that egr block off plate, BTW? I've replaced it

The intake is full of carbon (front fire?) and ugly gunk that's proving difficult to remove, as is the throttle body. The cam and associated parts look quite good, with little wear. The crud stocking between the valves may be contributing to my bad compression results (140-150) I posted about earlier (Gas in the oil ect..). It's probably time for a rebuild already but I'm really iffy about doing it in a parking lot. Here comes my next eviction notice...... It seems that the PO ran this car in a horrible state of tune for some time. Here's some bad pictures:

Don't wana. Valve seals can be replaced with the head on, and only two are bad (slightly). The remainder is from the brake fluid that was sucked into the intake due to a leaky MC. After a good cleaning I'll soak everything in seafoam. Problem is, I'm not sure how to clean it without scoring the valves, though I think they should be fairly resistant. I guess I'll use a rag soaked in something nasty. Maybe I'll use the vac though plug holes. How is this different from seafoaming your intake at idle to clean it?

Ugly, thick deposits on the tops of the intake valves (haven't gotten to the exhaust, yet). I'd very much like to clean the while I have the intake removed (I've taken to 'fiddling with it now that it's off). How best to proceed? I know of the seafoam in the intake bit, but this is somewhat too serious a buildup to trust to that. I suppose I could just scrape it off, but it would then possible find it's way into the combustion chamber doing god knows what to my rings/valves/walls. I'm wondering just what's going on here. Two intake valves have 'wet' looking deposits possible caused by the leaky injectors or possible bad valve guides there.

I broke one the first time. The screw under the gas-stay mount removes the entire mount (I figured this out too late). You'll also want to remove the taillight panes and the seatbelt mechanism cover on the strut tower to facilitate this procedure. At this age they don't like to be twisted. Oh, and you've removed the rear deck already, right?

By the way. If you do this, keep the thin metal strip that attached to the old rubber with staples.

My apologies. He was, I mean you were, asking about the felt bits and I assumed you were still speaking about those in your next post. I've heard similar prices for them, however. I just pains me that such inconsequential crap can be so expensive merely because of it's application. Welcome to Free Markets.

(SHUDDER). Good price? What, are you made of money? Who in the hell wants to pay 50 Dollars for felt strips??? What, are they the special glowinthedarksuperhorsepowerincreasingwhilewipingyourbuttforyou felt strips? I'm going to tear my door panel out again to have a look at these Super Strips. You might think they would outlast the car at that price. I bet nissan pays less than ten bucks for this junk! Sure.... you have to cut it yourself and then 'attach' it with something. But, unless you're having someone else do all of your work, why??? PLEASE GOD!! TELL ME WHY!!!! Unless you're going to a car show, who the hell will notice?? Even if you DO, what kind of microscope would it take to distinguish the original and replacement fibers? Seriously, now that I'm done ranting. The leftover 'd' stuff from the last project with a strip of black felt from the fabric store attached would probably improve greatly over the original. If you don't think you can cut it perfectly enough to suit, use a yardstick and an Xacto (I use a surgical scalpel, disposable). Spend the money on something that isn't such a simple swap out, like kick panels. I'll post an update on this later.

I have yet to find a suitable replacement for the door to body seal that isn't around $30. This isn't TOO bad, but I can do better. This kind of rubber is used in a mind boggling number of applications, the trick is finding one you're willing to pay for.

This was in the dark, but you get the idea. Oh, and you can use any small self-tapping screw. drive it in first (after drilling hole of course) then remove and cut most of it off. Leave just enough to hold the strip in place and not interfere with replacing the trim on the door. Space these fairly closely and take care not to overtighten because the rubber will warp around it. Also try to get as steep an angle (against the windshield) as you can.

I don't think hot glue would hold well to stainless steel, at least not for long. I have, unfortunately, no part number for it but maybe this will help:

Ummmmm, look: I know this. I said I read the document, right? Besides the computer hookup is just a Crank Angle sensor type of thing. The question was about the tach (yes it's a common question, but for the 240 tach, not usually a problem with the 280's apparently). Thanks, though.

Gavin- Bit late, but this dizzy came from an '83 maxima according to the cap and rotor P#. Oddly enough, it turns out it's an e12-93.

I love it! Finnaly a use for that lot of 25 LED's I ordered from mouser. They're red but should work. I was also going to attach 6 to the injector wiring to watch them flash, but maybe not.

Oops. I had the compressor connected to the RETURN line. No wonder it held pressure. I've reversed the connection and discovered that two injectors very slowly leak down. CRAP. The rest may just not have enough fuel to hear it. Time to test them individually. I'm fearing the worst again. Should have listened to myself before. I never get off THAT easy. What I don't understand is that when testing number 3 by itself, there was no leak. Now it's the worst offender behind #1 (which seems to be leaking from the body! Though, more slowly.) The entire rail has only lost about 7lbs in the last 20 minutes, which doesn't seem too bad, but this does appear to be the source of my woes anyway. Comments? Related EFI experiences? Anyone?

Bad FPR. Checked using a tire air pump (eeelectric). That would have been so much easier if I had a fuel pressure guage. I could have done this on-vehicle, but I feared the worst (6 new injectors). Silly me.

For the wires themselves, they should be fine but if they DO crumble they need serious remediation and shouldn't be left to themselves to break at the worst moment. They'll be fine unless the car's been sitting in the sun with the hood up for a few years (don't ask how I know this). The (injector, thermotime valve, cold start, ect.) connectors, on the other hand, will fall to pieces. Their main body will remain but the peripheral extrusions, which hold the metal clip, will most likely fall apart. They can usually still be used at this point if you're in dire straights but it is preffered to replace them altogether. When you remove them look for the GREEN EVIL, which is kissing cousins to the BROWN EVIL (RUST) that is the bane of these cars. If the connectors are anything but shiny, and they will be, you need to replace or clean them. I wish I has a pic to demonstrate how the metal clip inserts are removed using a very small screwdriver or similar instrument. In addition to the EFI connectors that sblake has shown us, there are Nissan's infamous 'bullet connectors' to clean. These also tend to corrode badly when moisture becomes trapped within the rubber sleeves. These are further up the harness from the clip-like connectors. Go to this page for the best breakdown of cleaning all of this electrical mess: Electrical Conn. Cleaning It's part of THIS (Click Here) site, that I've found invaluable when it comes tho this stuff, though it may not pertain much to you, since you have an 810. The connectors, however, should be in about the same places. You can also find the EFI bible here which (again) isn't for your car, but may still be useful in diagnosing the trouble.

Oooh, they come in colors too Thanks for the pics! The do look rather better that the salvaged (but brand new looking) originals I have right now.

Just adding my 2c in case the sensors didn't turn out to be it. On my 280 draining the tank is relatively simple (to check for the contaminants) due to the drain plug located on the pass. side. I wasn't suggesting he should drop the tank right away. As for the AFM, I did say he probably wouldn't want to tinker, didn't I? Again, it's definetly not a first resort but I thought I'd throw it out there. Apologies for any confusion I may have caused. BTW, are the BMW connectors similar to the GM and Audi types, or of a different construction entirely?

Oh, and you may want to check the AFM. The fuel pump cutoff switch that's in there may be activating when you hit something. This is very speculative but easily tested by jumping the two connections on it to see if the problem re-occurs. For some good pics of this unit and other 'tweaks' (that you'll no doubt not want to mess with) go here: http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/

This sounds incredibly like the chunk-of-crud (rust/varnish/tar) in the fuel inlet (to pump) from the gas tank problem. A large chunk of this crap that builds up in a tank will clog the inlet in the gas tank due to the pump's suction. When the car dies, the suction is released and the crud floats away allowing you to re-start. It then proceeds to clog the inlet again a little while later. Never had the problem, but I've run across it doing research quite a few times. The fix is to drain your tank and look for the crud then have it boiled out by a local radiator shop. If you look for POR-15 on the web you can find a sealer (I've heard excellent thigs about it, but again never used it) to 'renew' your tank if it is indeed rusting out from the inside.