nwcubsman

Michael, Sorry I don;t have a good map with Long/Lat. Where are you located?

I believe that with the bumper brackets, the bumper will fit fine. A V8 280 in my meighborhood has the Euro 240 bumper.

So what do you think, real?

but you might check Danny's Datsun down in Eugene (I believe). Enrique Danny's is in Sutherlin. He's got quite a pile of parts. Not a U-pullit kind of place. You can call him, or e-mail, but calling is easiest way to catch him quickly.

I haven't been too close to a coyote myself, so not sure if it is real or not. What do you think?

I also think a good quality oil is a good quality oil. I heard many years ago that you should stick to a brand, because different additives found in various brands will break loose different varnishes or sediments, that could plug things up. I can't say if it is true or not, but I do believe in changing oil early and often if I am a new owner of an old car. I'll change it (and filter) each 500 miles for 2 or 3 changes, then start my normal routine of 2500 or so miles. I also read a study last year that looked at filters, and it claimed that filters vary greatly. Fram didn't fare real well (in the top 5 or so), so I now use Puralator. It also stated that the upper grade of Puralator filter was only very slightly better than the standard Puralator, which tested very good. Not sure if you can even consider this my .02, since it is hearsay.

Sounds pretty good Ken! Dave, congratulations on the new toy.

Well, Actually, they ordered for me. I think it came from the Sac. warehouse. You should be abke to have your dealer get it. It only took a few days. If you want my dealer info, PM me. These parts guys are the best. But they are in Oregon.

I went thru the same questions earlier this year. I went with MSA's setup because they were black and looked close to stock. I didn't like that each bushing was in a bag, dumped in a box and not clearly marked for what went where. I didn't notice much change in ride harshness, but the change in sloppiness was dramatic. I don't know if new rubber would have been the same, but I'm sure it would have been better. I did leave the rubber steering coupler, cause I guessed the road transmitting thru the steering would have been significantly increased. Overall been happy with the choice. Nothing wrong with new technology replacing old unless you're a concour type of owner.

Had the same issue with a cable from VB. Besides it was a POS. Try spinning the cable inside the casing. It binds. I bought one from the good ole local Nissan dealer. Spendy ($85), but the quality difference is remarkable. This was a real case of getting what you pay for. Whatever you do, pull out the cable and grease it up good before you install.

Side Marker and Taillight circuit. Had problems of some working and not others. Thought I'd save the switch after I replaced with a used piece.

Hey 73, I drive mine in the rain. Maybe not pristine, but very nice and only 55,000 miles. You don't drive in the rain in Oregon, you don't drive!

listed in my signature

I'm sure this will be a one shot appearance. The bad guy gets cornered, arrested or shot, car gets impounded and then gets sold by a Hollywood car company that provides stunt cars and has let it sit and rust in LA. Probably will get $5000 on ebay.

I hope he made that POS himself. I'd hate to think someone would accept money for that.

Just saw a preview of a new FBI /crime show coming up on CBS. The show is called Criminal Minds. The first episode will feature a 1970 240Z! A killer uses it to lure women victims. I always thought the Z was attractive, but its power must be used for good! Thought you'd like to know.

I don't mean to be picky, but I can't agree. From a collectable standpoint, the earliest VIN is probably the best, but a '73 has many refinements like intermittant wipers that a driver appreciates. I encourage you to drive the car not dust it and use it as a trophy. I have 2, '73s. Many if not most '73s already have the earlier carbs on them and they generate as much power as the '70-72 models. The weight difference is neglegible. I'm a pack rat and have a few sets of carbs, intakes and linkages. I also have a complete '70 motor from a pre #1000 VIN car with head and 4 screw carbs. 80,000 miles. Someday I might even find a use for it. Enough of the rant. Rust would be the top priority, IMO, when looking for a car. Completeness next as many parts are NLA (no longer available). Then, dash and console condition. I am just picky about these two pieces, and they are hard to get or expensive to get. Just get the car you like with the right equipment. If you pay a little more, okay, it will still be cheaper in the long run. I am scavenging right now, because I bought an automatic that I planned to put a 5 spd in anyway. I could have bought an equally cherry car with the right equipment for what I will have into it when I'm done, and I'd be driving it every day now instead of next year. Maybe that is my 3 cents, sorry!

Yea, these can be a bugger! I took mine to a local alignment/brake shop. Was worth the $$. I also couldn't remove a strut cartridge from one of my fronts. Same guy did it free. I was happy to return for the alignment and the tie rods. Best of luck.

I agree with Ari, but throw in a cam. The exhaust mods will net you almost zero Hp increase on their own. Oh yea, I have 2 '73s and '72 carbs were my first upgrade. 160-170 Hp is really doable (if thats a word). BTW, nice looking car!!

Can anyone help me with the spacer details that is needed to use the Toyota S1W brake calipers with the '84-85 300ZX NA, vented front brake rotors? I am looking for dimensions to mill my own spacers. If anyone has spacers in Oregon/Washington, that I can measure, I'd find some way to thank you. Your help will be appreciated.

A '74 260Z radiator is an exact match to your stock radiator, but is a 3 core radiator. I just drove my '73 for 10.5 hours in 104 degrees (no AC except in a box in the trunk) and the water temp never went over the half way point. I think the 3 core should work well for you. FWIW, Bryan

Would you consider shipping the 240Z side mirror to the USA? I would like to see if I can have a factory mirror on each side. I'm assuming your mirror mounts to the right side door!? This would work wouldn't it? Thx, Bryan

A little late but this may help someone else. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/timing/index.html

Give Danny's Datsuns a try. Just be sure to tell him to find you nice ones. I bought some water tubes from him and got some junk. He stands behind his parts and replaced them, but it was a hassle. But the replacement was very nice! Danny's 541-430-1180 Good luck!