EScanlon

Don't know if you can get it in Australia, but JB Weld is a type of epoxy that is harder than your usual resin style epoxy. You could even make a mold off the good one and then make the new one. 2¢ Enrique

Ok, with that picture I hope you can address whether you need that wiring harness or not. Now, as far as wiring schematics are concerned. They are fine if you know where to find the individual wires that are represented by the wiring schematic. Unfortunately, the majority of schematics do NOT identify which wires are together. An exception to this is the later schematics for the 260 and 280. However, those have their own level of incredible complexity tossed in as to make them totally unuseable. The FSM does have a Multiple Connector Diagram as well as a Single Wire connector diagram. Those in hand with the wiring schematic are a good set to decyphering out the wiring. So, hope all this helps. Enrique

First, take a look at the picture I'm attaching. I "borrowed" it from the e-Bay auction. Enrique

The inline fuse should be behind the radio / HCP not too far from the wiring connections to the heater. If you look back there there should be 2 inline fuse holders. One is for the radio the other for the heater blower and resistance. Now, as far as the wiring to the blower motor. Yes both wires APPEAR to go to the resistor, but in fact only the BLACK actually connects directly to the resistor. The RED wire connects to the wiring harness and then feeds up to the Heater Control Knob. If you'll note the 4 wires coming out of the Resistor, the black goes to the motor, and the other three go up into the wiring and then to the control knob. The fourth wire is a red and it connects to the red wire from the motor. Now, on the short wiring harness between the heater control knob and the motor / resistor, you'll note that there are six wires feeding to the knob. The additional two wires are a red and if I recall a blue or black. The red would go to the one you found that looks like it was blue changed to red. The other should connect to another connector or directly to ground. (Sorry, I couldn't find that short harness in my spares box.) Hope this helps. Enrique Scanlon

Find a good mechanic and have him do a good tune-up. You'd be surprised how spunky the Z can be without all those performance mods. By this I mean get your valves adjusted, have the brakes checked / repaired, get a set of tires that will make the ride better, check / replace shocks, lube the car. You get my drift. I would recommend you do this BEFORE you start modifying. I'm not opposed to mods, but let's face it, you rarely get the opportunity to go 100+ mph and worst of all it's dangerous and illegal. If that's your bag of tricks ... go for it. However, be advised that the majority of "help!" calls people post are of the "I added a thing-a-ma-jig and now I'm having serious problems." type. So, if your car is absolutely perfect mechanically, and you still hanker for that extra oomph, then go for it. However, have you considered that MOST of the time that you will be showing off your car, it will be ....STOPPED? With that in mind, I would recommend making sure that the car LOOKS cherry. Get the seats recovered, if they're like the majority of 30+ year old seats, all torn and delapidated. Get the paint polished. Again, if the mods are required for your enjoyment, then 2mZ has good input. Personally, I've seen too many souped up cars in the .... junkyard or wrapped around a tree. 2¢ Enrique

1. The two connectors are correct. The 6 wire side goes to the switch and the 4 goes to the wiring harness if I recall properly. (I may have it backwards, but I also thought it was odd.) 2. Yes. The motor has part of it's wiring directly connected to that resistor, the other wire goes to the wiring harness. 3. Hard to tell from your picture, but they may be the courtesy light wires. All of the wiring to the blower motor goes through the heater blower switch, and not from the right hand side kick panel. Have you checked the inline fuse on the wiring to the blower motor? That one looks like a radio fuse, but it is a second fuse put in line for the motor / resistance. Hope this helps Enrique

Felida, just North and West of Hazel Dell. Enrique

And if you're not a big stickler for OEM or exact replacements you CAN find the same style rivet at Lowe's. Go to their specialty fastener section and you'll find them in various lengths and diameters. Right off the top of my head I believe they are the 3/16" - 1/4" diameter and about 1/2" to 3/4" length range. You should be able to find a good close replacement. Hope this helps Enrique Scanlon

Actually the rarest one is the one that has 710 on it. 2¢ Enrique

As far as my connection, (dial up) I do find that those animated avatars do cause the mouse to jump and react differently as well. Being selfish, I would ask for the non-animated avatar, but since I don't have broadband and I know the majority of folks out there do, I've just learned to muddle along. 2¢ Enrique P.S.: Although my avatar is "animated" also, I've only noticed the slow down on the movie style ones.

My headlights have a "Halo" around the light. The City Light I presume is similar. Unfortunately no pictures were shown as to how they look. Maybe someone has pics. Enrique

I found these on e-Bay and although not billed as the same thing as what I have, they appear very similar to mine. The biggest diference is that mine have 2 bulbs for the extra light and not just the one. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=2463105556&category=33710 Hope this helps someone. Enrique

Mark: The rust in the gas door opening is from moisture creeping in between the gas door "cup" and the fender skin. That may be possible to fix with only a small amount of fabrication. The hole under the body trim however, looks like it may be from moisture that crept in through the rivet holes used to mount the vinyl strip. You won't know until you open the back side up (inside the car) to determine how far and how bad the rust is. The rust at the bottom of the fender is the worst in my opinion. That is because it appears to be a prior repair with a patch already seamed in. The seam can be seen in a straight line back from the bumper. I don't recall the fender having a seam in this area. If in fact it is a prior repair that has gone bad, it may be cheaper to buy a replacement fender and take care of all the rust all at once. 2¢ Enrique

Should be an INLINE fuse if I recall, but not a fusible link. Have you gotten the Wiring Schematic for your year of car? That will go a long way in helping troubleshoot. Enrique

Ask 2ManyZ's about the transmission. That one is out of my field of expertise. Enrique

Sounds like you bought a 73 HCP. The differences between the wording is essentially Null. Cold vs Off is due to the Water Valve being completely turned off and hence it will not warm the air rushing through it. Room / Floor was probably because the inside of the Z is not a "room" and the heat would be blowing down towards the floor. To determine if in fact you have a 73 vs a 70/71/72 look at the back. If you have three light bulb holders behind the lever control area, and the face of the HCP is smooth, it's a 73. If on the other hand, there are no lights and the labels for the levers are above the lever on "tape", then it's an earlier model. You can pretty much use them interchangeably. To use the 73 on an earlier car, you'll have to splice in the light wiring hanress into the light circuit (BLUE / RED STRIPE wire) and make sure that you can slip it into the dash without problems. When I put a 73 HCP on my car (a 71) I found that I had to mount the HCP first and then the center console. The FSM and most other books will tell you to do the center console first and finally the HCP. Hope this helps. Enrique

The Hazard Switch itself comes out from BEHIND the dash. The ring just holds it in place in the dash from the front. There may be a wire harness finger clamp back there preventing you from pulling the switch out directly, but if you can feel back there you should be able to spread the fingers and remove the switch. The switch does have 2 wire harness connects that it connects to the wiring harness with. As far as your heater blower, it may be that the power to the switch has been shunted. Since it plugs in just like a radio would, it isn't unusual to discover that people have either blown the fuse and not replaced or used the power line to the motor as a source for an aftermarket radio. 2¢ Enrique

And hopefully his car's hatch area is less prone to rust than Daddy's! Enrique

Time out guys! While those lists of numbers seem to denote a hard and fast stop and start point for the different year cars, in actuality there is a LOT of bleed over. While HLS30 006072 is the LOWEST VIN sold as a 1971 Z, as recorded at the registry of zhome.com you can also find that the HIGHEST VIN # sold as a 1970 was HLS30 011618. So now we have 5,546 vehicles that were ..... what? 70's or 71's? The same thing happened in 71/72; 72/73; and although not verified probably happened in 73/74. And that is without looking at the production months. We in the U.S. refer to a Series 1 and a Series 2 as if they were a tangible point that the rest of the world can look at, which is not the case. Additionally, we only had one year of the 260 while other countries had many years. The most accepted differentiation between the "Early-Early" Z and the "Early-Late" (or "Late-Early") Z is the presence of the hatch vents and lack of column vents on the E-E. Then you get into the style of center console, then you get into the dash type, then you get into the seat reclining mechanism or not. Not to mention tool boxes, cutouts on the steering wheels etc. As far as the 71, however the most common differentiation is the location of the vents. 2¢ Enrique