EScanlon

That's interesting to note. My car (Sep 71) had an aftermarket stereo installed when I got it. When I went to the boneyard to find a replacement for it, the one that I found had the volume on the left and the antenna switch above the right knob. Pictures that I've seen in the owner's manual is what tells me I got the right one. This would be something that Alan T. should comment on, probably Kats would be interested also. Enrique

Disconnect the + terminal from the battery and hook up a simple light type circuit tester, or just a simple 12v bulb. If it lights up, no matter how dimly with the key in the off position, then you have a current drain. If it doesn't you do not. It's that simple. Now, to trace down WHERE the current drain is, simply hook up your bulb again, and go inside the car and start disconnecting likely candidates for the drain. Typically: the accessory relay (mounted on the kick panel on the 240); or the Glove Box Light. Those are the easiest to find and detect. When the light at the battery goes off when you've disconnected an item, that's the item that's causing the drain. Memory keeping circuitry on radios or alarms is usually so low as to take literally months to drain a properly charged and in good condition battery. 2¢ Enrique Scanlon

That actually looks like a RHD radio for a 70 or early 71. The notation above the left knob is only for DX or LD, an old notation for DISTANT and LOCAL station reception. In newer stereos this is done automatically, but back then you would select a tighter band reception for stations further away. The reason I say a RHD radio is that the volume and on-off switch knob is on the right. The toggle switch for the antenna didn't go above the tuning knob on the right (USA market) till late 71. 2¢ Enrique Scanlon

Wondering how much your car might be worth? Check this sale on E-Bay. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=2479139282&category=6187 Enrique

I agree that some of the items this seller sells are outlandish. However, let's not forget that there are ~some~ individuals out there such as Porsche or Ferrari owners who simply feel that they MUST flaunt their brand of car. With Z's becoming almost as exclusive (due to their rarity) as Porsches and Ferraris (which are exclusive due to their prices), it isn't inconceivable that eventually there will be some "elitist" owners out there that flaunt the Z. Then again, I'm biased. I bought a pair of the "Z Driving Gloves" just to put on the console when I'm at car shows. Enrique

DO NOT USE POR 15 FOR EXTERIOR SHEET METAL! Although it is a great product for painting over rust, it has a tendency to set very quickly after being painted and NOT flow out. This lack of flow out will show up on your final surface paint as uneven shine, and hence will make your paint job look awful. You WILL need an etching primer in order to do the first primer coat on bare metal. If you use any other type of paint for the first coat you can count on it blistering or flaking off later. You can top self-etching primer with any one of various surfacers, whether high-fill or light and then go to final paint. Heck if the body is straight enough you wouldn't even need to go to a fill primer, but you MUST first shoot etching primer. Hope that helps. Enrique

Are you referring to the plate on the glove compartment door? If so, you need to disassemble the door, there's a bunch of phillips screws on the inside face of it, then you will have the outside face BACK visible. You'll then be able to see the blind speed nuts that hold that emblem in place. Enrique

Two DUTCH Auctions for Complete Carpet Kits. This is for LOOP pile, althouth non-OEM, a very nice upgrade: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=46093&item=2478164202&rd=1 This is for an OEM style set: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=46093&item=2478164389&rd=1 A DUTCH auction is where more than one item is available and will go for the LOWEST amount for higher numbers. Just a thought: Enrique

A D/A Sander is a DUAL ACTION Sander. That means it can sand in either an Orbital or a Circular pattern. So knock yourself out. Just be careful if it's an electic sander, make sure you hook up the vacuum attachment. Enrique

Since the clock runs normally when you drive it, and stops when the car is not driven points to the source of power to the clock being interrupted. Have you checked that the power to the clock is in fact, continuous? 2¢ Enrique

St. Stephen is correct. If you'll look you will note the seat sensor on one of them. Enrique

First off, I think you did well with a $2500 settlement. I don't think you could have gotten much more. So with that in mind, here are two thoughts for you. First, see about getting another estimate from a body shop that has a good reputation. Anyone? Then compare what you will be getting done. Unfortunately, finding a bodyshop that is willing to search out and procure new or refurbished parts for an older vehicle is going to be tough. But, that's what you want to do. Now, as an aside, I note that the quote you have is going to replace all the parts on the right hand side. Are they all so shot that they can't be repaired? That's where you can start negotiating with the body shop you're currently working with. Second thought, what about having the body shop repaint the WHOLE car as part of the fix. It may mean that you have to toss in another $1k or $1.5k on top of what you're currently quoted, but that way, your car would be all one color. And as an afterthought, if you are mechanically inclined, you could do the repairs yourself, as long as you can get ahold of the parts. Anyhow, good luck and keep us posted. Enrique Scanlon

Unfortunately, without cutting sheet metal, there isn't an easy way of accessing the captive nuts that hold the latch to the body. The only way that I have heard of fixing a stripped nut there is to drill and tap to the next larger size bolt. FWIW Enrique

I'm an ex-bodyman and I have seen what the pans from Zedd Findings look like as well as helped install a set. I'm stating that because I have a lot of experience in not only duplicating hard or impossible to get pieces of sheet metal as well as just using skinss and fenders from both the dealer and / or aftermarket sources. IMO, you would spend a lot of time and money in cobbling something together that won't look as well as what you're getting from Charlie. The end result of doing it with Charlie's pieces is that the replacement will look very close to original, but be stronger. He has taken the time to drill the drain holes as well as bend the reinforcement oval indentations in the floor pan. The sides have been bent up at the right angles as well as having the proper length to fully replace the whole pan from the front to the back. Now, you can try to just patch, and if that's all you need, then yes you can just cut a couple sections of flat stock and weld / braze them in. But, if you're talking doing the WHOLE floor pan, by the time you get the metal, cut and bend it to shape, I think your savings will be very little. Then again, if you're very skilled at cutting and bending metal you would do it in an afternoon. However, then you wouldn't have posted this question. As far as the structural strength, metal that has been bent in a brake or press is far stronger than metal that has been hammered or bent in small sections. Anyhow, that's my 2¢ Enrique Scanlon

No problem Marc. Now just do yourself a huge favor. IGNORE the itch that's going to creep into you and drive you batty about trying to do any type of repairs. DO NOT TOUCH THE CAR! If you do, the insurance company will undoubtedly use that as a reason to reduce the pay out. As far as your custody hearing: The same basic principle applies. Know what the rules and regulations are, then make sure you abide by them and / or point out how you conform to their requirements better than your ex. Unfortunately, the child custody laws are strongly weighted towards females, so you need to prove that you're BETTER than she is. There's more to it than just this, but hopefully you've retained a good lawyer who will advise you. Enrique

But your sentence implies that they were NOT, and something you said/did has caused them to change their approach. That's the whole reason for being so aggressive. No, it doesn't make it harder to prove. The difference is that on private property there aren't any traffic laws that may have been violated, nor to be upheld. That's the main reason the police don't get involved in writing police reports on private property accidents. Otherwise you would need a police report for every broken window. The most interesting thing you mention is that she doesn't deny hitting your car. THAT'S the most important thing. That's what this thing is all about. She hit YOU. That she's trying to blame you is irrelevant. Unless she can prove that you were driving recklessly and/or at excessive speed, she's liable for having backed into you. Now, that they are being cooperative now is probably a good indication that they will pay out. But don't back off yet. The squeaky wheel gets the grease. If you appear to be easily mollified, then I can guarantee that afterwards you'll be screaming how you got shafted. Don't back down. It is that aggressive stand that will cause them to paper you with dollars in order to get you to go away. Ever see a little dog tell a big dog to get the hell out of it's yard? That's what you need to act like. If you let them think that they've "gotten to you", they'll revert to their initial strategy and just brush you off. There are hundreds of stories of people who tried to conduct their business with the insurance company in a "reasonable" manner, only to be shafted afterwards. I know you may feel that this is too aggressive, and it is. The whole point of being adamant and belligerent about the damages is so they don't try to "reason" you into accepting less for the damage because: it's an old car, it's not worth the amount you are claiming, the damage isn't as serious, there were no injuries, no one is really "at fault". Do you get my drift? You CAN act in a reasonable manner. Just let them know that you are a dormant volcano about to blow up, unless they pay proper homage. Enrique

Maria: If the car was tryly professionally converted, then they undoubtedly reinforced the bottom of the car. If they had failed to do that they would be liable should the car fail in that manner. Take the car to a mechanic and a body shop. The mechanic will evaluate the vehicle for brakes, engine, tranny and suspension, and the body shop can ensure that the frame reinforcements underneath the car are adequate and still sound. That will ease your mind. Good luck, and post some pictures. Enrique Scanlon

2MZ: That is probably one of the most succinct statements about our capitalistic Supply and Demand system. Then again, that's the basic kernel of it. Enrique

Marc: Of course the Insurance company is going to play the stall game with you. Stop playing nice guy. You've contacted them, they've brushed you off, send them a certified letter with return receipt. That letter should state the time(s) that you have tried to contact them along with a copy of a couple of estimates (get the two most expensive) and let them know that you will proceed to file in Small Claims Court by a SPECIFIC DATE if you do not receive a SATISFACTORY settlement. Note the wording, it is what is satisfactory to YOU not them. Give them at least 5 business days to respond and that's the day that you will file. In Small Claims Court you file an amount as part of your paper work. Be sure to include the amount for the HIGHEST estimate, and a suitable amount for YOUR time, and the amount of the filing fee. Don't get original and request "pain and suffering" or other BS, be strictly up-front about it. You could if you had an appraisal before the car got hit, get it appraised again and add to the suit for the amount of depreciation due to the damage. Of course the amount is going to be close to double the original estimate, but you're going to have your paperrwork ready. Pay to have a Sheriff's Deputy serve the woman, that ALWAYS gives them a jolt. Then when they contact you and try to bluster you off, you just keep to your guns and wait till they finally offer a check that WILL cover the damage. Now don't get greedy and try to hold out for more, that's why you padded the original amount on the suit, so that the amount they finally offer will be satisfactory to you AND to them will appear as a win. Remember, you HAVE to negotiate from a position of power. If you act apologetic, and are asking them to help you out....forget it. You've literally lost before you started. Remember, YOU are the injured party. The law states that THEY must make reparations. That's it, don't go wishy-washy on us or we'll have to beat you with a stick. Now go get one for the Z...... Enrique

MikeW: You've probably already read the thread(s) that discuss the various substitutes / replacements for the tar paper that was on the floor. If so, then no need to read further. If not, definitely do a search for them and read them. In a nutshell, remember that the main reason for the tar paper was not thermal insulation, but the propensity for flat sheet metal to resonate. That resonation tends to duplicate and even magnify noises that will drive you crazy. Since Datsun originally placed this onto the bare sheet metal, and time has a tendency to cause the adhesive to fail, moisture will creep in and rust develops. That is why they're so vilified by all Z owners. The trick to using them properly is to make sure that the metal is properly protected. If you've ever pulled a decal or other sticker off of painted metal, then you know that the base paint stays generally unblemished. So with that in mind, in order to QUIET down the cabin, definitely do put either tar paper, brown bread or some other form of vibration damper onto the floors. Just make sure that it is NOT a porous insulation, like shredded fiber or pressed fibreglass. FWIW Enrique Scanlon

Mike: S H U D D E R :sick: :mad: EGADS man, don't EVEN think that I may be a lawyer. I agree that the lawyers and their self-serving laws and nonsense have tied this country up into impossible situations. If lawyers were to be liable for some of their shenanigans, I can almost guarantee that some sort of order would quickly be re-established. Without going into a long discussion of it, just think, the lawyer gets paid whether or not they win the case. And if they win, they usually get a share of the pie. They have a win-win situation. They would gladly sue God, if they could find out where to serve the lawsuit. If anyone here IS a member of that profession, I offer no apologies. If you choose to take offense, then it must be because you agree with me to some degree, and are offended because I'm citing what has become obvious to the rest of the country. Mike, knowledge of the system is necessary in order to avoid the pitfalls that have been woven into it. Whether a law is valid or not is not a subject that can be discussed in simplistic terms. What is valid in one situation is entirely inappropriate in another. The trick is to know when and where to fight them. Sometimes it isn't worth it to fight it, and best to aquiesce and make sure that you are in compliance whether you agree with it or not. Remember, Al Capone was eventually convicted of TAX EVASION and not all the bootleg whisky, extortion or murders he committed or had a hand in. If you'll remember the eleventh commandment: THOU SHALT NOT GET CAUGHT and then remember that if you know the rules you know how to work WITH and AROUND them. But enough of that. If folks wish to discuss the legal system we should take it to another forum. Enrique Scanlon

When I redid my interior, I scrubbed that piece with some soap and water, then scuffed it with a scotch pad and shot Rustoleum Satin Black on it. It looks great. Don't recall the texture you describe, will have to check on that. Texture can be a matter of painting technique or paint. The texture you seek is what defines it. There are wrinkle paints, which give a look and texture similar to shattered safety glass. Then there is the spackle effect. That one is created by doing a heavy MIST and allowing to tack dry before additional coats are applied. Hope this helps. Enrique

I know that parts can sometimes be obtained cheaply, but for a solid smack on either of the front corners, I feel you guys are being EXTREMELY optimistic. At a real rough guess on what GOOD parts are going for, let alone EXCELLENT parts, I feel $700 will barely cover it. A 72 240Z, one PO, <100k miles was more than likely babied and taken good care of. That tells me that even if the paint is faded, and I'm sure it did since Datsun paints are notorious for it, the metal and chrome is bound to be in good shape. So now you guys propose to find all those parts in equal condition for less than $700? Rots-a-Ruck! A bumper in Good condition, with only a bit of rust on the backside, needing polishing would probably go for $150 on e-Bay. True, not a good source as some parts there are exorbitantly overpriced. However, as a benchmark that would apply in Texas as well as the Northwest or the Northeast, it at least gives a basis of comparison. Now I don't wish to get into a big discussion on how people have found outrageous deals and therefore that proves that parts are available cheaper than... (insert your area here). The BODYSHOP told her that they could get the parts for that amount. I'll bet that those prices are marked up, and probably aftermarket sheet metal replacement as well as other aftermarket parts. If all OEM, I want to know the name of the bodyshop and I'll go get parts there. Think about what you've seen parts going for: Bumpers....easily $100 and needing work. NEW? $400 - $450 Bumper Guards ... $25 with rust. NEW? $80 Bumper Rubber...$25 used and rare in good condition, new $40 Fenders...needing work...$50 needing less $75 NEW? $160 Headlight scoop used $35 NEW $60 Hood used and probably with other dents $100 new $350 Lower Side Valance used $35 new $150 Headlight Acorn, Trim Ring, gasket used $25 NEW NLA Side Marker Lamp used $5 NEW $45 That's $400 in used parts needing a LOT of work and patience, something a bodyshop isn't going to willingly tackle. New parts are closer to $1250 and all they would need is prep and paint. So, before you get disheartened, let's look at something else. First off, don't accept that brush off about how much they'll pay. If the amount is NOT satisfactory, then remember these words..."We'll settle this in court." Then you sue the DRIVER and her insurance company. Not the insurance company. The driver is the first person to be mentioned and the one against whom the court would levy against. The insurance company will undoubtedly step in to represent their client, but stand firm. Next, did you contact your current insurance agent about purchasing the car? If you did, and you (hopefully) took pictures of the car on the day you received it, then you more than likely took shots that show the condition of the car. The contact with the insurance agent and the pictures can be shown to be indicative of your INTENTION to get it insured. Sometimes your insurance carrier will automatically cover you on a vehicle purchased like this. Granted, you SHOULD have had insurance first but...... Another thing, have the prior owner state that they "loaned" the car to you to "test". This involves their being quiet about having been paid for the car, (I didn't say that!) and then stepping in with you and the prior owner AGAINST the woman who hit you in court. The prior owner's insurance is NOT going to be out anything. You'll get paid for everything by the SUV driver. Again, all you have to remember, is "We'll settle this in court." It can take a long time, but, now here's the clincher, you can sue her in small claims court in the meantime. Those courts usually move things right along, and your trial will come up quickly. Since the insurance company does NOT want to go to court, they'll work FAST. The reasoning is simple, in small claims court, you don't need to go to the fancy schmancy techniques in big court. All you need to prove is that someone's actions cost you money. The real clincher is that with a win in small claims court, you can then turn around and sue the insurance company AGAIN. Why? Because they're the insurer of record for the vehicle that hit you. Now you would be suing the insurer of the VEHICLE and not the woman. Now with a prior win in small claims court, getting a bunch more may be unreasonable, but not necessarily impossible. Now, as with all Barracks Lawyering, remember, I am not a lawyer. I'm simply another car owner how has worked in a body shop, heard a dozen dozen stories from folks and fellow Air Force members and was also involved in a few myself. So CHECK WITH A LAWYER! The $75 or so you spend on a simple consultation could mean no out of pocket repairs on the car. Hope this helps. Enrique Scanlon

The drilling holes suggestion was entirely tongue in cheek. I wouldn't expect you to do that unless you were really intent on destroying your interior. If it's only a 1/4 or 1/2 inch, then it may NOT be a broken spring, but rather just a worn mechanism. Whether the shaft of the crank spline has now become worn, or the teeth on the scissor gear have become worn. Combine that with the probability that your "fuzzy" gasketing inside the channel has become worn and you have a good situation for the windows to slip that much. You might be able to check e-Bay and find crank arms. I've seen them offered from time to time. The other is to check with other members here, someone may have an extra pair. Good Luck Enrique Scanlon

That means that your window crank handles in the car are going round and round. A very cheap "jury-rig" would be to stick one of those pencil erasers in block form that's been cut to size to fit in there snuggly. That way the rubber would keep the handle from twisting around and still not damage your door panels. Now if you really want to go cheap, drill a bunch of holes in the door panels, and stick a peg in there to stop the crank handle from going round. Granted, it won't be cheap later when you have to replace the door panels. Now, you might be able to go to the boneyard and find a pair of springs for another Z, in which case that's the way I'd do it. 2¢ Enrique