TBK1

47+ and also suffer from CRS

Z's did you ever figure out the 77 set up for these harnesses (PL)?

got a 77 with trip webers having some issues also, not the same but, here you go, came from main supply line to regulator off of reg taped to BYPAS to return line, vent line at charcol canister not capped or used, no leakage but do have over pressaure, just added a small small hole in gas cap, problem much better but still irradic idle, this is a 260 motor running both a electric pump and the mechanical pump!!!! almost like it loads up some times, usually when driving it hard, with windows down can smell raw fuel also, carbs set and flow balanced by me , maybe the probem

Diode is needed on 73 also, just did one!

Napa sells a plastic cleaner I used it on mine when I did the white face mod! Worked good!

Both, the water is the biggest but would like a lot less seam, doesnt matter if if is still defiend but!!!!!!!!!!!!

Has anyone used seam sealer where they join together or is there a better Idea! And how long could one expect the seam seal to stay intack and not shrink and crack? Or how about METAL TO METAL body filler?

put it up on jack stands (body and frame) and try to move the rear end side to side , see where the play is coming from.

E this is the yellow one, not gonna be shaved it is the panel in this pic that goes between the bumper (Chrome) and the body!

ok HVLP guys chime in here!!! Alos has anyone tried to "Seal" the gap on the rear bumper filler panel where it meets the body, the panel that is welded to the body. prob has close to an 1/4" gap, if so what material did you use! E6000,seam sealer? I am actually having a blast doing this! Don

I did notice tho when spraying that I didnt get a MIST affect like I though I would, it was more like little spatters, had to go over an area like 4 or 5 times to see a WET Solid level coat, using a HVLP from napa and tried at 30 psi and 40 psi about same results, is this maybe a problem with not enough reducer, tried to do the 8 parts paint, 1 part hardner and then reduce it by 25 percent like the paint guy told me but my mix cup was HUGE for this small amount of paint , might not had it thin enough?? Also are you supposed to wet sand and buff single coat?? got a little trash in it but not much, forgot to turn off the hvac DUH!!!!!!! BY THE WAY!! you guys are GREAT to continue this thread and educate me like you have THANK YOU!!!

Thanks E, went ahead today and tried my first paint, had a pint of single stage and painted the underside of the hood and the underside of the hatch, not to bad for a ROOKIE!!!!!

and if you decide to go this route, My son happens to be parting out a 73 240 that would have everything you need for the conversion:pirate: :pirate: :pirate: :pirate: :pirate:

Thanks E, do you see a prob with putting down a sheet of plastic under the car to protect the floor during painting?

your FSM list the bulb types!!

Trying to give back alittle for the help I have recieved here, posting this here first before ebay! Thanks for all the peeps that have helped me!!

Thanks E ! Will laquer thinner work for the wax/grease remover ?

Pretty close to painting, 2 questions! not sure if I will have the fenders soon enough so thought Id paint everything else now, Q #1 how much base color should I buy and will the colors match (fenders) if the base is out od the same batch or does the reducer effect the color? Q#2 is it ok to wash the car prior to painting to remove all the fine dust and crap?

had same prob at tank fill area, not the diff to fix check it out, and I AM NOT a body guy!

Hey guys, there is a material used at a seam I need to know what to use it is where the roof line meets the rain gutter, appears to be some kind of caulk that got hard semi hard and cracked up!

thanks guys, I've learned a bunch here!

ok lets see if I understand this right, do my sanding and bodywork, prime where needed, then sand to 400 grit, seal with a white color sealer, tack rag it, spray my yellow base coat, tak rag it, then spray clear and do the wet sanding then buff/polish!!!!

Thanks for all the info, think I got what I needed. Jmark, not this one, think I,m gonna try this one myself, dont wanna get alot of labor dollars tied up in it and hell I cant do worse than the first JA that painted the blue one (not shane).

in process of body repair and sanding, on the places (paint) that are not going to be taken down to bare metal do you just need to break the glaze or shinny coat of paint, using 120m and 220 grit. and what do I need for final grit before paint (400). plan on using a sealer, then base color then clear coat. This is 411 sunburst yellow, am using light grey primer on the repair areas, do I have to use the same on ALL of the body to achieve a uniform color at the end or can I just leave the unrepaired areas yellow and just primer the repaired areas? Also the hatch and fenders are a dark brown I assume I need to gray primer those entire items for uniform colr to match the rest of the body. Car has been painted before and looks like it is still adheareing very well except around the body rubber/gaskets which are now removed and those areas will be taken down to bare metal and featherd in smooth.

Im looking for a set of fenders