TBK1
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Everything posted by TBK1
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Ok! changed my wiring to this hot wire from old ballsist res to new resistor AND the red to dizzy. disconnect old res wires to coil green to coil - other side of new resistor to coil + brw to GRD all voltage reading changed to this (in respect to GRD) to one side of new resistor (+ feed) 12.2 VDC (witch also feeds the red dizzy wire) out or other side of new resistor to coil + reads 8 to 8.5 VDC (varrying) Coil - side 4.3 to 5.3 VDC (varrying) appears to have fixed my stubble upon acceleration will no more later after testing. Almost forgot, had to rehook my (old Blue wire) to - side of new coil to get TACH to work -
Ok Glenn here is what I have. This is a 2600 (260 motor) with trip webers installed in an original 77 fuel inj car. switched to mechanical fuel pump.( only gets 3lbs fuel press dont know if thats right). mallory unilite dizzy. and Msd blaster 2 coil with it's supplied resistor. tapped off the positive side of the original ballist resistor to one side of the MSD resistor, other side of resistor to the red going to the dizzy. Green to the neg side of coil. brown to ground. used this sites info and wiring diagram, http://go.mrgasket.com/Brands.aspx?BrandID=6&brandselection=10 but now after re-reading and testing these voltages not SURE that I am RIGHT. But mine does run fine, alittle rough at idle but I think i still have minor carb issues and possible timing issue, currently playing with setting. all these voltages are in ref to GRD. power sourse from orignial ballist resistor + side = 11.5 VDC power at one side of new ballsit resistor = 11.5 VDC power out of new ballsit resistor = 11.5 VDC (now Im really confused) power at - side of coil = 3.8 VDC (HUMMMMM) power at coil + =6.7 VDC Think Ill email Mr. Gasket and ask tech advice. See what they come up with!
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I have the mallory Unilite that came with the new engine I got and had to wire it up to my 77. Mine only has 3 wires. According to the diagram and intructions I found on the e-net it says You MUST use a bal resister or you will burn out the Ignition module in the Dizzy. Brown goes to engine ground. Green goes to negiative side of Coil. Red goes to Balist Resistor and the other side of Resistor goes to coil Posistive. dont remeber but Think I had about 6 volts and no prob, I can Check it later and Post it needed.
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what does the "1-2" mean?
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My thoughts also, just adjusted carbs and the prob is not as bad but still happens, timing set to 20BTDC witha unilite gonna play with diff settings eventually!.
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I have a 77, with a 2600 out of a 74 with the 83 zx 5sp and CC dual clutch, bought as a complete assembly and guy mentioned the diff in TO bearings incase I wanted to go to a Diff tranny, So I beleive I have the right one!
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havent tried to adjust them yet, running Techron thru the system right noe to clean things up, engine been sitting for 2 years. seems to be running quite spirited tho, might have to add a return spring to the linage doesnt always return to correct idle!
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This one has the centerforce dual clutch so guess Ill just have to play around. The issue Im haveing is mainly during downshifting into 2nd or speed shifting into second, it sorta gets a small grind like the clutch isnt disengaged enough. the 77 5spd did about the same but not as bad, maybe Ill re-bleed the system and see if it helps?
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Thanks LanceM, will do the reading first, do have the weber instructions for setup that I downloaded!
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can someone give me a quick walkthru on how to use this! after swap am having a "desieling" "/"After Run" issue and want to eliminate carbs as prob and also verifiy they are set correctly, appears to be running a bit Rich. Should have stated trip weber setup!
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good info guy's! is there a known measurement that the fork is supposed to travel via the slave push rod!
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Thanks Blake I'll check into it, I assume just hand push the clutch fork first to see if there is play, I know you shoudlnt be able to engage the clutch by hand that way!
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got the engine swap done ( Built 2600 with 83 zx 5 sp) question is clutch adjustment. are all the componets from the 77 supposed to work with the tranny, clutch master, slave piston shaft length. seems like I need alittle more pedal for clutch depression. engages and disengages aprox 1 to 2 inches from the floor, lots of top pedal! clutch is a center force dual, whatever that means, and is relatively new. system has a new outa box slave and has been bled well! Thanks in advance. heres acouple pics of the new.
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hey do we go by OEM settings or does it change with the new Dizzy! Mine is set at 20 BTDC and seems to run good? Also notice that the boys 73 with a electronic style dizzy is set at the same? Sorry mine is a modified 260 engine in a 77 with trip webers!
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Got it running!!!! still have fuel issues, using orig mech fuel pump, but didnt bypass the elect pump on the 77 (thats next). put a fuel pessure guage inline and sometimes it showed 3lbs and other times zero. Used a holley press reg which was supposed to have a bypass but it actually has 2 outlets, one of these I put to the return line. got alot of tweaking to do but holy sh*t does it sound and pull good and strong>
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Simole enough! Thought maybe had to add oil or something like some others!
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What is the wing nut on the top of these for ? Have pics in my gallery when they are approved!
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It has about 30,000 miles since the rebuild which included: Triple Weber 40 DCOE two barrel carburetors. with K&N Air Filters Bored 0.030" over New Wiseco pistons and rings ARP rod bolts New main & rod bearings New oil pump etc. E-88 head with all new guides; all valve seats replaced with hardened steel inserts. Erson Cam and new rockers/followers (I forgot the cam specs but have them in a file) Mallory Unilite distributor - Centrifugal advance 6:1 header Alternator, fuel pump, starter etc. Centerforce dual clutch. All this stuff goes with it. The motor currently has a 5 speed attached ('83 ZX) and it works very well with the 3.54 rear. You will need to change throwout bearing assemblies if you want to use an earlier four speed(could use the one you have) as the later ones are longer and will keep the clutch from engaging. I learned this the hard way. I also have a drive shaft, motor mounts, voltage regulator, electric fuel pump, new radiator, spare 280-Z radiator and a bunch of other used but good parts that would be included. I guess it would be sort of a spring cleaning sale. I have about $6,000 in the motor, so I'd like to get $1500 for the whole bunch. -
It has about 30,000 miles since the rebuild which included: Triple Weber 40 DCOE two barrel carburetors. with K&N Air Filters Bored 0.030" over New Wiseco pistons and rings ARP rod bolts New main & rod bearings New oil pump etc. E-88 head with all new guides; all valve seats replaced with hardened steel inserts. Erson Cam and new rockers/followers (I forgot the cam specs but have them in a file) Mallory Unilite distributor - Centrifugal advance 6:1 header Alternator, fuel pump, starter etc. Centerforce dual clutch. All this stuff goes with it. The motor currently has a 5 speed attached ('83 ZX) and it works very well with the 3.54 rear. You will need to change throwout bearing assemblies if you want to use an earlier four speed(could use the one you have) as the later ones are longer and will keep the clutch from engaging. I learned this the hard way. I also have a drive shaft, motor mounts, voltage regulator, electric fuel pump, new radiator, spare 280-Z radiator and a bunch of other used but good parts that would be included. I guess it would be sort of a spring cleaning sale. I have about $6,000 in the motor, so I'd like to get $1500 for the whole bunch. -
It has about 30,000 miles since the rebuild which included: Triple Weber 40 DCOE two barrel carburetors. with K&N Air Filters Bored 0.030" over New Wiseco pistons and rings ARP rod bolts New main & rod bearings New oil pump etc. E-88 head with all new guides; all valve seats replaced with hardened steel inserts. Erson Cam and new rockers/followers (I forgot the cam specs but have them in a file) Mallory Unilite distributor - Centrifugal advance 6:1 header Alternator, fuel pump, starter etc. Centerforce dual clutch. All this stuff goes with it. The motor currently has a 5 speed attached ('83 ZX) and it works very well with the 3.54 rear. You will need to change throwout bearing assemblies if you want to use an earlier four speed(could use the one you have) as the later ones are longer and will keep the clutch from engaging. I learned this the hard way. I also have a drive shaft, motor mounts, voltage regulator, electric fuel pump, new radiator, spare 280-Z radiator and a bunch of other used but good parts that would be included. I guess it would be sort of a spring cleaning sale. I have about $6,000 in the motor, so I'd like to get $1500 for the whole bunch. -
put the 2600 with trip web setup in the 77 280 today, ALMOST done, need some info. 1. using mallory unilite dizzy with a red, green and brown wire _ where to, Have the flip open little box that the original dizzy connected to (2 wire). 2. is the vaccumm bottle necessary, or can I go vacumm from the firewall tube straigt to maniford vacumm? 3.have some sort of crank case vent tube comming out of block below the manifolds, right now has some type of old "oil Breather " with nothing hooked to the output tube-- were to ? 3. what do I need to do to the vent tube out of the top of the valve cover? 4.what about the return gas line, not the supply, does it need to be hooked up and if so do I just get a regulator with an over flow feature? 5. if I want to use the 77's electric fuel pum do I have to tap into the AFM harness or jump something out to make it run? It's too freakin late, this is to long , and I appreciate those that read and Input!! Would like to finish it up tommorrow! Thanks
