TBK1

you will have to change out the FI fuel pump, way to much pressure, and all the regulators I have seen are not designed to handle that much pressure, you can always bypass it and run the mechanical pump! you only need 3 to 5 psi! Have done this same swap in my 77 running trip webers! you can check ut my gallery! you can also leave all the 280 FI wiring in place just tuck it out of the way if you intend on using it later!

the one in maggie? is that the one at the car lot that had the front air dam on it and paint flaking off??? if so that one has been there for year plus, might get a good deal on it!

anyone explain in detail about this to correct camber problems! getting ready for tires and alignmnt and want to be prepared. car has tokico springs and struts (HP) and poly eneregy bushigns all around. Tires with less than 5000 miles on them wearing on inside treads.

thanks for the info guys!

any idea what it is called or where to obtain, only thing Ive found is bono type crap!

just wondering what material is best to use for molding the fiberglass kits to the body! Had mine done and guy cant remeber what he used but it has never cracked and pretty flexable but not soft, it was sometype of sandable filler! Reason I,m asking is I have to redo the front spoiler due to having had to remove it to fit on a tow dolly! everything Ive tried cracks with very little impact/stress! but not the bluish looking stuff they used the first time!

Yep had 3 80 amp and 1 50 amp link, had one of the ends split not making good connection and couple of the sockets had at one time did the melt thing so hence the upgrade!

should have clarified , Fuseable Link to fuse block Upgrade!!

with a few mods it should be, do yourself a favor and do the altenator upgrade and the fuse block upgrade. Most of the rest should take care of them selves.

Yup! Hell we arent ever done with these things anyway!!

overall it wasnt a bad trip, 1st time on a trip with this engine and trip webers. South Carolina to Indiana/Illinios. Trip up , 23 MPG @ 80MPH+, figured that wasnt to bad. Rain all the way up, hit heavy rian once and did the float/hydro plane thing, that was scary as hell!! after that lost all the guages and stereo except speedo, clock and volt guage but the charge light was on but was still charging, because voltage didnt drop! anyone want to guess what it was, i'll tell you in a min. Oh what the hell, it was fuseable links! had to do the fuse block mod while up there! Try to find that $^!# on the road HAHAHAHAHAHAHA! Ended up finding the Maxi 2 position blocks at Walmart of all places, no where else! Installed 2 and rewired! turned out nice I'll post pics eventually! Found out that they had the wrong fuselinks installed after much research. Had 1 red/brown on rear engineside location and other 3 were black. Nissan says just the oppisate. anyway no 80 amp fuse to be found but did find 60, so far so good! Now the not so fun! was picking up my 99 ranger while there, no prob tow the 77 z back with a tow dolly, No prob right? WRONG! For those of you that have a front air damn beware!!! I HAD the msaII kit installed and it wouldnt go on the Uhaul dolly! hit the strap turnbukles to start with, no big deal bend them over, up farther, WILL NOT clear the front of the dolly, had to take off the air dam, Mine was orig molded to body but had craked loose after this dizzy bitch bump a post in a parking lot so it was easy to take off, $^!# I want to fix it anyway guess I have to now! Anyway towed/followed real nice, back home and guess Ill have to have the damn put back on since I am garage less for the time being, getting ready to fix that problem REAL SOON!

My Bad you are correct !!!!!

only thing I can thnk of at this point is the main Shaft Bearing in the tranny! You could start the engine with tranny removed and if sound gone it eliminates the engine and bearings!

Anyone know where to get a heatshield that will fit tripple webers and cannon intake L6 engine. saw this as a package on ebay , dont know where to find!

Guess they could do it, but hey aint that why we have them to work on ourselves, and hell you seen their labor rate lately!

I have the sync tool but when I have attemped to use it always seems I have 1 carb I cant get close think it is the back one! The way I was told to sink was as follows: back idle speed screwout till it doest touch linkage, then screw in till they just touch. turn the mixture screw in till seats (carefully) and then back all six out 2 turns then take the inspection screw cover off and adjust each speed screw till the buterfly just barely covers the 3rd hole (closes to the intake) and dont touch them after that. Then use the mixture screws to adjust youre idle speed and flow obviously I am not understanding things or was told wrong! Can someone elaberate? Here is my setup 77 280Z 2600 from 260Z Triple Weber 40 DCOE two barrel carburetors. with K&N Air Filters Bored 0.030" over New Wiseco pistons and rings ARP rod bolts New main & rod bearings New oil pump etc. E-88 head with all new guides; all valve seats replaced with hardened steel inserts. Erson Cam and new rockers/followers (I forgot the cam specs but have them in a file) Mallory Unilite distributor - Centrifugal advance MSD Blaster II Coil Morroso Plug Wires Holly Bypass Fuel Regulator Optima Battery 6:1 header 2 ½” Exhaust, W/Resinator and Turbo Muffler Hyperflex Urethane Bushings Thru out Alternator, fuel pump, starter etc. Centerforce dual clutch. 5 speed attached ('83 ZX) White Face Guage Modification MSA Areo II Body Kit Tokico HP springs and Struts

Thank you very much guys!

Sorta, have never got them to sink right and havent found anyone experienced enough to help sort it out, it's close, runs great except the idle prob, all plugs about the same burn !

tripple weber setup , prob is when running car for a long time lets say over 45 mins, IT WILL NOT IDLE, just dies when at a stop, does fine starting and even when it comes up to temp but after it runns and everything gets hot is when it starts. have header and it is wraped, but no heat sheild. Could this be a gas boiling in carb prob, if so would the heat sheil make a diff even with the headers wrapped, and if so what material would you manufacter a heat sheild from? Thanks

Did the 82 alt conversion, WOW what a diff. all those problems went away, imagine that. It also appears to have corrected or at least drastically improved the irratic idle prob so far!

anyone have any different speedo gears for a 5 spd, somewhere between 77 and 83. Have white installed, boy just got poped for 63 in a 45 SAID he was doing 45 by the speedo who knows. But anyway got a bid on a blue and another white on ebay but trying to round up others so I can get this thing close to accurate! Setup is a 74 240 with a 77 L28, think a 77 spd but could be a 83, and I believe a stock rear end! Please leave me an IM or email to DWALK3@bellsouth.net! Thanks

bolted and spacers to take up gap between the back lip of dam and area where the valance mounted, but you still get abit of movement out of it. the wheel lips where screwed to rim of whell wheel then camo with filler! Starting to show stress cracks on side skirts at the back , I guess from the twisting!

Champaign/Urbanna used to stomp around there back in the late 70's, Night club called THE POSION APPLE was the $^!# back then! Grew up about 100 miles south of you guys, Marshall, Tere Haute area!!!, taking a trip back 1 sept!!!!!!!!

Had the msa II installed and it was alot ALOT of fitting, grinding, filling ect.. they sent the wrong kit first time and it looked worse as far as molding goes. I will post link to my pics! http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=7742

Found It!! Low voltage prob!! connected charger to batt prob goes away! This would happen driving down the road also, wounder if this can also be a factor in the shitty Idling prob I have intermitantly , more so when car be running for awhile and up to temp??? HUMMMM!