240260280z

Remember. KEEP ALL OF YOUR 240Z PARTS and collect the ones missing. That will be a $30-$40k car in 5 to 10 years in stock form and you can thank me then Post a pic of your dad's bike too! Cool family!

Lacquer thinner will soften rubber , not sure how long to immerse. Experiment

I wish I had more time in Atlanta... at least I could have bought you a beer. My daughter in that photo is now 21.... time is faster than a Z.

a spot welder may fuse the bolt to the plate too.

It is usually the switch under the ignition key that develops carbon on the contacts. Replace it or remove and flush with solvent while turning. It screws to the back of the ignition key mechanical assembly so the only thing you have to remove is the steering column plastic housing. If I recall correctly there are two small philips screws behind the switch so you may have to stand beside the car and looks through the front wind shield as you turn the screws.

http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/rip-z-car-expert-and-racer-john-williams/96632/page1/

Thank Dr. 240z he sent it to me.

Chrome-mites are pests that destroy shiny bumpers.

Thanks to Dr. 240z for this interesting marketing letter. One of the first restorations.

They named the drink after Janet? We finish on Friday and will head into Hamilton to celebrate. I'll have one then. I guess it is Tequila for you

A Z triple set need 6 emulsion tubes. They are ~$20 each with a $5 jet at the bottom and a $5 air corrector at the top. There are probably 2000 or more combinations of the various sizes/types of each. A mule set and drills will get you close for least investment.

It should be fine. The spring in the new pump is now over extending since it is removed. When you insert the new pump's arm into the head you may find that you have to firmly press the pump body upward to get a bolt in the head... don't worry about the lock washes to get the first bolt in. You will probably hear the pump sound as you press it up.

Use a gasket against the block and one against the pump. The spacer/insulator fits between these two gaskets. Spread the stuff below on all 8 surfaces, let it get tacky then fasten bolts

You are bruce the borg... mr machine

The soldered jets are test mules that will be used only to explore. Once you find the sweet spots then buy real jets to match. You only have to solder when you down size a hole. Clean the jet in vinegar then a small dab of flux then fine lead solder (silver is too hot). Try not to have too much flow on the nose where the jet seals against the carb body. The goal is to flow into the hole only. A butane or propane torch to warm the jet enough to flow the solder is all you need. Buy a set of small holed jets to start with and drill up and pass through your desired hole size. You should invest in a wideband too. It will "see" what is going on. Practice soldering and drilling using a big drill bit first (1.5mm or more) so as not to easily break it (small ones are delicate) . You can also develop your technique too. The guy in the video seems to solder with the drill in the hole then spins it out when the solder is cold. This could be interesting with non-solderable wire of various thickness's. Try using a pin vice too. Good tips here:

http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/41332-understanding-a-weber-side-draft-carburetor-through-a-fictional-supposition/ http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/44512-setting-weber-dcoe-fuel-level-with-caliper/

Set the fuel to 27mm down from the ledge where the jets fit. Here is a guide. Just ignore the 25mm and go for 27mm. http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/44512-setting-weber-dcoe-fuel-level-with-caliper/

Steve is the Georgia SU expert!

Piston in carb may be hanging again. Are all 6 black or just 3. If all 6 then maybe that Mr Gasket FPR is the cause. The reviews of that part are not great.

Helpful tip: you can spray shaving foam to catch metal too. Also double check you have the correct bolts. Often non-metric bolts have found their way to our cars over the years.

Be careful on HybridZ... they have a history of banning people. You may consider just joining to see the photos that are hidden. Asking questions there is not always welcome.

Hey George! You ask great questions. It is clear you want to learn.... that is what makes helping fun. You will find this forum to be filled with helpful, friendly and knowledgeable people . BTW I just noticed where you are located so I now understand... Greeks are great thinkers, students and teachers it is in your genes! Embrace it! Photos of your car are always welcome on this site.

The starter should be fine. No worries there. It is just a consequence of high initial (static) timing. You could also swap the advance canister to one with less advance. You could also modify the vaccum advance to have less excursion. In fact if you carefully chip away at the plastic seal in the centre of the canister, you will find an adjuster. It is usually difficult to do however. Have a look at the bottom of this page for what lucks under that blob: http://newprotest.org/projects/510/jasonGrayDistributor.pl Another modification would be to try to extend the grove in the canister that pulls the advance pin inside the distributor. You could even put a small hole in the vaccuum advance line so there is less vacuum to pull it.

All good questions: 1. With ~20 degree's initial advance, the slow rising piston by the starter (~ 200rpm) will allow the explosion to push back on the piston until the RPM's are at idle ~ 800rpms when the piston is moving faster. This makes it more challenging for the starter to crank and you can actually feel it. 2. That is true for cruising. Vacuum advance helps with fuel efficiency at cruise. 3. A total advance of ~ 36-38 seems to work nicely with these engines. You can adjust to your taste.