240260280z

You learned a good thing today!

Isle of Jersey or New Jersey?

You can connect the ground wire to any of the mounting bolts.

Some suggestions: Check the cam lobes carefully for wear? Are you running a mechanical pump? If so check it's functioning and the eccentric. Crank the starter with the valve cover off to ensure all holes on oil bar are flowing Check all valve keepers and lash pads to ensure none are loose, missing? It could also be a loose valve seat. Check plugs and pull one wire at a time to see if it affects the sound. You may be able to correlate it with a cylinder using these two plug checks.

Yeah we got an f1-f2 (Juan) hit us directly in 2003 (NS Canada) and it was bad but we dealt with it quickly and all was back to normal in 7 to 10 days. I was looking at the NOAA plot for Irene and did not know what the hype was about... f0-f1 is pretty much just a windy wet day. On TV I saw a lot of reporters without wind socks/foam on their mics to try and enhance the low wind so it is easy to see the press are full of BS makers. Here is a low F2's (Juan) power:

Couple of images to add to the procedure:

Any Weber experts?

Maybe clogged return line is driving your fuel pressur up? Used compressed air to blow out lines back to tank. For some reason you have too much fuel. The only causes are high fuel pressure, wrong size injectors, or EFI system not working. I think you checked all of these?

280zx booster on a 260z

Yup, Even a 280zx will fit. You may have to drill some holes for the larger ones. Here is a big 280zx on an early 240z Before and After: Drill holes Clearance and Fit of Big 280zx booster. Note the 280z booster is smaller.

Not sure about parts that can swap. Whole boosters can swap though.

I had same problem with bccd. Just turn it a few turns one way and test. If the idle decreases too quickly at a stop or if it stays high for longer then turn the otherway. The bccd is under the throttle body and there is either a screw or a nut to turn.

Weird but a great question! I looked around and found confusion on this page but I saved you another $50 http://www.racepages.com/parts/brake_booster/240z.html My guess is that any of them should work. Just do some web research on where the vac line attaches and the spacing of the 4 mounting studs and the push rod length.

Go ~ 60mph for a few minutes, turn off ignition then coast to a stop (careful turning off ignition as your steering may lock, you can turn it back on when engine is dead but not all the way to start) After coasting to a stop, read plug #2 and #5 to see what front carb and back carb are doing.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?41940-Quick-and-dirty-SU-Tuning http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?43264-Vintage-SU-Carb-Adjustment

Hi, I am refreshing some carbs and the kit has a mystery washer that I can't figure out where it goes? It is the single aluminum washer in this photo at the bottom.

http://racingotaku.wordpress.com/2009/06/08/best-f1-engine/ Makes me wish I kept my 1.5 Toyota Echo. Gotta go out back and season my Pee-30 block.

I did a little net searching and found that the N36 did work better in race applications at WOT. Read this thread: http://www.zcar.com/70-83_tech_discussion_forum/n36_hoax_631455.0.html What I would like to see is actual flow testing on a flow bench. I should make the one I have been procrastinating all these years.

You will enjoy this. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/content.php?151-Brake-caliper-restoration FYI my S2000 only has a single piston as stock on the front and it is a heavier car than a Z and the single piston works fine for spirited street driving. Newer brake pad compounds and the z's 2 piston calipers will do nicely. You really only need vented rotors if you track-it or if you don't now how to drive smoothly in the streets/traffic and constantly ride the brakes. S2000 Single Piston Caliper:

Probably not a big difference between the two. The line is for coolant flow to heat the manifold and carbs. Something you do not want in the summer so if you don'd drive in Indiana in the late fall or winter, you do not need it. The pipe ads a little structural strength.

ditto, the switch at the bottom of the key cylinder has caused many of us problems. It is a $20 part.

The stock brakes are pretty good for the street. Just refresh the system (inspect, flush, new seals(if needed), new hoses (if needed), new pads, shoes and rotors (if needed). You can swap sumitomo front 2 piston calipers with sumitomo front 4 piston calipers: $350 here or ~ $100 if you buy the parts carefully. Here is a simple step-by-step guide to the 4 piston upgrade: http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/toyotabrakeupgrade/index.html

What year? Try www.blackdragonauto.com