madkaw

Targa time!

Maybe in Zurich ! But seriously , if someone added up all the parts , machine work , labor , it adds up fast . A mild performance head could be 1500$ easy. Not too many places to do any window shopping - lol

Do you think the kids understand?

Just watched the vids and my money is still on ignition. That ignition coil looks like the original . I was go to fuel last . The fact that it happened kind of all the sudden, I would think ignition.

Yes, Citizen Z is quite a character. I didn’t know I was going for a photo shoot when I drove up to see him. He is a Z enthusiast for sure. Funny thing is that when I went to see him I saw this 1970 he had and told him if he ever considered selling to let me know. Well I have it now. I miss those Mikunis , but can’t keep everything , I’m supporting a college kid

Surprised of the lack of speculation from our viewers -lol.

No insult taken, obviously there will be many perspectives on this. For someone that could build an engine themselves, would probably not spend as much money for a prebuilt motor. For someone that doesn’t have that skill and are just happy to have a ready to go drop in motor , they would pay more I am betting. The fact that size matters might not be true for everyone. Being a modified L24 might make up for it not being a L28. Someone might run it like it is and then take the head off and drop it on a L28 later.

Thinking I’m going to let me L24 go to help finance bigger displacement ventures. I’m not a numbers matching guy and my car is to modified to ever be “ correct” . This is the original head and block for this car. I would let go of the motor ID plate if wanted. Right now just interested in price ranges you guys come up with. Moderator - move this thread if not I appropriate location. Asking opinions on price for the complete long block. P30 block .30 over . Block includes timing cover , damper, water pump , NO flywheel E88 Head (9/71 car , so early head design like E31) chambers 37cc , so yes it’s been shaved. Isky 290/490 cam , Schneider springs, 44mm intake, 35mm exhaust, some blending work, but not really ported. Power band is 4000-7000rpm Head has been drilled to accept EFI, but it was originally SU carbs. Engine dynoed 155 rwhp .

Sounds like a good list. At least the car had some maintenance, maybe not recent, but some engines get no love. The AFM boots crack where you can’t see it, but maybe feel it, or remove and inspect.

You need to lean towards ignition first. Sounds like a weak spark that you have to rev the engine to keep it running. Have you checked spark color ? Have you inspected the dizzy cap for cracks. Is there moisture in the cap. Are the wires tight around the dizzy. Is the coil getting proper voltage? Is it putting out a blue spark? Now start on the fuel

Those are fuel fouled for sure. You need to test fuel pressure . Then start checking all connections. Read the EFI BIBLE , and get your multimeter out. Your pushing your luck with a 10 year old battery - regardless out how it tests. I don’t see anything about ignition checks ? Dizzy cap? Plug wires? Rotor? Timing ?

I did watch this - thank you .

One bed frame down!

Just drove it! Got a ignition problem fixed and made a club run with a local car club

I’ll take pics just to categorize the assembly for reassembly . Of course if I screw up or give up , I’ll have picks of parts in the classifieds -lol Currently working out the jig to keep things aligned . Need to find some more bed frames !

I guess I’ll just surprise everyone.

It’s also bad around rear quarter windows

Guys, yes it is a bad rust issue that has rotted a lot of the substructure of the roof crossmembers . So I want to swap out the whole roof -pillars and all. The layered structure of the Z chassis makes it difficult to undo and reattach . I’ve been staring at it for days . This is for 4858 or I wouldn’t even consider it . The car is pretty solid other than this. It has the normal floor stuff , but the roof is kind of baffling . I think the rain got behind the seal and sat in the vinyl and rusted from inside out .

It wouldn’t last 5 years under a tarp- it would rust to the ground

Not just the skin - the whole damn thing. Anyone done it? Been searching and can’t find much. Anyone know of a thread where someone has done it?

Let me amend my early statement . I just don’t think that car is worth even 2k. It’s just really bad. I know matching numbers mean something, but that thing is about rusted to the ground .

Wow - pretty rough , but complete I guess. Helping me to get motivated on my 4858. Mine is better than that by far.

Looks like a bad casting more then detonation . Some early castings I’ve seen had porous areas in the chambers . Lots of water damage . That head is toast Id say .

Still have most of these parts . Newer oil spray bar sold.

They are are rare because a lot of them didn’t survive. Not the best castings at first and normal wear and tear , and normal neglect has dwindled the numbers . Some were damaged because the seats fell out because it was an inferior design flaw. Electrolysis is usually the worst offender .My 9/71 has the e/88 which is the same exact head( early version only) as the 31. Just depends on what your plans are for the car. 31 heads pop up every once in a while, but look carefully. You could get another head on there to get the engine running while you look for a 31 head. Or just put a complete engine in there while you put back together an original engine package