madkaw

I’ve have the 3.90 . I had it with my 2.4 and my 3.2 , it just works well. I originally had the T-5 which is a bit of a wide ratio, but it made for a great passing gear in third . If your engine made power all the way to 7k , then you had a hell of a passing gear . Anyone hear third ? Im not much of a high speed guy, rather just be quick . Like said above , what meets your driving criteria . Don’t do a lot of highway cruising and wouldnt be afraid do hum along at 3500 rpms either . 825E8147-CCCE-4270-8C19-819A0CFD87CD.MOV

I have that adapter that I will never use if you need one . I couldn’t use the RB flywheel

You would have a blast with a programmable ECU compared to this old Bosch ! When you get the numbers where you want and have recorded your AFR’s - make a valve timing change and see what that does to power and AFR’s . I’d also say you would be safe to go as lean as 13.2 at WOT if that gives you more adjustment somewhere else .

It is just a switch , not a true TPSensor. Not sure if it will make a big difference either way . I would shoot for contact movement

It’s been a while, but there is a connector harness that loops the green and black to complete the circuit . Basically all the z cars had the potential for electric pump , but the circuit was incomplete under the dash . I think I have that small plug set up somewhere if I can find it. Look at early schematics too for help

Shave .030 off the head and call it good

That’s a 73 heater panel that had the backlighting

Doing my own wide-band tuning today . Two are better than one !

I’m running this - https://zcardepot.com/products/flywheel-lightweight-competition-clutch-240z-260z-280z?_pos=1&_sid=356fe798b&_ss=r It was more being able to machine it for my CAS . The cool part about this flywheel is that it can be used for 225 or 240 clutch . It is also 13lbs, so a little more mass

Leaking around the injector body itself ? Surface of mating surfaces were so rough that the dry seal wasn’t sealing ? vacuum leaks get everyone . You seem to know what your doing , so you keep pushing on . You might even get brave with timing 😉

I get it . But I would make sure all aspects of advance are in order .

It WOULD affect off cruise accel. Especially a lean mixture . You could try playing with ignition timing . The problem is if you raise idle timing it might add idle speed . if your engine has some miles on it you could advance valve timing to #2 . You would be surprised how it adds torque .

You are also running vacuum advance and know it is working ?

Can’t use a driveway cruise to verify much . No load condition at 3k would probably cause a little popping since you leaned it out . What’s - WOT AFR now ? What is your timing set at? Premium gas ? What octane ? How did it feel accelerating off of cruise ? I would richen the idle enough to have control of the idle . Have you double checked for vacuum leaks ?

Cruise should be a lot leaner

What year ? How are you tuning your enrichment or are you just verifying numbers . Probably a non- quench head like 75-80 it will be better to be on the safe side . Without full control of tune - fuel and ignition - its tough . Flat top L28 you could can do better for sure .

What engine ? What EFI ? Not enough info . I run 15.5- 16 at cruise with 45 degrees timing Idle as lean as I can 13.1-2 WOT

I feel your pain . I have been dealing with neuropathies with no known reason . Sometimes it’s a struggle to get through the day let alone work on the Z . I hired a young man who is eager to learn to help me out . I’ve decided I can afford to pay someone else to help limit my pain. At the same time - working in the z can be a nice distraction from the pain . I feel fortunate that I can still get around as well as I can , but at 58 I expected I would be able too. The pain can be mentally challenging and makes me want to give it all up . If I knew working on my car was the cause of my pain I would probably let it go after 25 years . Pain can be a big motivator . Hope you find resolution

Industrial Plating Inc Lafayette Indiana . This is a pic they sent so I haven’t seen the stuff in person . Here’s a pic of what I sent them from my last plater

I just sent some out! My first plater sucked so I found another one . These folks look like they did better . Can’t wait to see the stuff in person . Quick turn around too!

Don’t think you can go wrong with the MSA header - it’s been the same design forever . Thick flange . NOT equal length , but that doesn’t amount to much as far as performance . My MSA does a good job keeping heat in the header with the ceramic coat . I don’t like this mismatched port shapes either .

I’m running a Kameari oil pump with no issues . Pressure and volume is quite a bit more than stock . Idle pressure is higher . You can’t trust a stock gauge , it reacts to slowly

Hole 3 significance ? Racer Brown? @siteunseen You would have to trick the EFI to give more fuel . Also have to trick the ignition not to time in too much or kapowy . Probably one of the worst heads for this scenario - pistons go without saying .

Don’t even know what to call the part , but it’s cracked and don’t know how important it is . Can I used an earlier metal bushing ?

Good advice Captain . The finger tight caps can be an issue