madkaw

Anyone with recommendations where or who to send bumpers to for restore . Customer has a very clean set that are super straight with just mild surface rust . This will be expensive either way , so I want it done right . Like to hear actual customer reviews if possible . thanks

Pics?

How’s my header coming along !!!!!

So you have valve timing marks that show excessive slack. You have a poor running motor . Now you have valve train noise . Time to pull the timing cover

Art and function done well . I still admire your skills . It’s hard to watch without being envious of your meticulousness . Fortunately I have a friend with a mill that can make me precision , because I’m more the ‘get er done’ guy .

I believe this was mentioned by someone else in this thread . I decided not to use their supplied nut for that reason of seizing

The timing curve is not going to adversely affect his troubleshooting

Very similar but has square exhausts instead our U.S.A. round ports

It would be nice to swap out with a known good dizzy . Maybe the shop fried your ignition when they installed it . Did it run okay after they put the Pertroni in?

Not enough history here . Did this motor ever run right ? Did this happen only after the carb work ?

Need more background info . Did you rebuild the engine ? Did it run right previously?

Ignore the bright link . That dizzy spline should be at 11:25 o’clock . Looks like yours is at 12 noon .

I don’t know guys - looks like that dizzy drive shaft is off a tooth if that’s TDC .

You guys haven’t even mentioned the best head yet - MN -47 . Because it wasn’t in the Z , people forget about it . It has the best all around combination for a street motor . Maybe not the best race head , but best bolt on for power with the least amount of work . Small chamber - high quench , good casting .

Going thru this dilemma right now with my current customer . Needed to spray the engine bay . His is a 2/72 . I thought 918 was the only orange , but when the painter mixed it he said it wasn’t even close . Too light of a color . He took the gas door in and matched it . The paint shop called it code 56? It looks Very close to Hemi orange . Was there two different orange colors ? Same dilemma with interior color . White or is it off white ? I will add that this car was re-sprayed at one time .

Get a vacuum gauge and plug it in somewhere it sees full vacuum . You should be 15-20 hg at idle . Closed throttle will give funky compression readings

Sounding like a vacuum leak . You need to spray something around that gasket while running . That would answer why you need some many turns out if you are sucking extra air . The wrong impedance on your coil would answer the sooty plugs . Pull a plug out with the wire attached and turn over the motor - preferably in low lighting - and see if the spark is blue or more yellow . Don’t worry about the cam sprocket for now - get the basics first

When you checked the mark on the cam sprocket at TDC - was the #1 mark on the sprocket where it should be ? Id say your valve timing is retarded by the pic , but doesn’t explain running issues . Don’t be shy about advancing the sprocket - it will help low end torque . 4.5 turns seems way too much . Sure you have the needle jets seated correctly ? Verified good strong spark from the plugs ? Verified no vacuum leaks ? Taken a vacuum reading ? Compression test ? Was Pertronix set up properly based on ballast resistor used or not ?

That’s a 2.4 with 3.90’s . Makes a huge difference in performance . I think biasing to a shorter gear is your best bet for overall fun , unless it’s just going to be a highway queen

I’ve have the 3.90 . I had it with my 2.4 and my 3.2 , it just works well. I originally had the T-5 which is a bit of a wide ratio, but it made for a great passing gear in third . If your engine made power all the way to 7k , then you had a hell of a passing gear . Anyone hear third ? Im not much of a high speed guy, rather just be quick . Like said above , what meets your driving criteria . Don’t do a lot of highway cruising and wouldnt be afraid do hum along at 3500 rpms either . 825E8147-CCCE-4270-8C19-819A0CFD87CD.MOV

I have that adapter that I will never use if you need one . I couldn’t use the RB flywheel

You would have a blast with a programmable ECU compared to this old Bosch ! When you get the numbers where you want and have recorded your AFR’s - make a valve timing change and see what that does to power and AFR’s . I’d also say you would be safe to go as lean as 13.2 at WOT if that gives you more adjustment somewhere else .

It is just a switch , not a true TPSensor. Not sure if it will make a big difference either way . I would shoot for contact movement

It’s been a while, but there is a connector harness that loops the green and black to complete the circuit . Basically all the z cars had the potential for electric pump , but the circuit was incomplete under the dash . I think I have that small plug set up somewhere if I can find it. Look at early schematics too for help

Shave .030 off the head and call it good