madkaw

Well my 190 lash pads arrived yesterday so I am chumping at the bit to get going on assembly, trying to take a deep breath before start. Don’t want to rush this . Biggest thing to check now is piston to valve clearance . All other projects are put on hold until this thing is assembled ! Also think I snagged a G-force t-5 trans to mate up with this. For those not familiar it is the Nissan T-5 from the ZXT that gets its guts ripped out and replaced with WC T-5 guts. Larger main shaft and tougher gear sets . Pro- tower shifter , hydraulic TOB! The beauty is that you get a trans that is good for 600 hp , better gear ratios and it just bolts up!

Who me ? Why would I be the expert ? I would be curious how a non matching numbers car does . It looks like he has the money in it, but modified , so he needs to call it a resto mod. The 70 in my shop will be a resto mod because it won’t have original drivetrain . Value would be based on interest , but he should get his money back

So my outlook is bleak . Dropped my car off at the paint shop 4 weeks ago and it’s still not done . Just some touch up work . I was told it would be done this week - but nooooo. Wasnt looking forward to the heat, but didn’t even notice the indoor venue before . That would be nice !

Actually moving forward again on the motor. The big cam arrived and I can start doing lash pads . Should get lucky and have just two sizes , and I have a set for the one size. Short block is just where I left it - all assembled under the bench. Things should roll pretty fast now. I was hoping for this high drama push to put the big motor in at the last minute to make it to Z con- but reality just kicked my arse again. Be glad to take the 2.4 !

I haven’t had much luck because I’ve messed with Nevada , Arizona cars where the rubber seal is now hard rock. Nearly impossible to cut with a cutter knife- at least the outside part. I couldn’t imagine any rope trick would touch the last one I did. Any delaminating gives way to cracks . If you manage to save the glass on removal, don’t guarantee you haven’t weakened the glass. I do have some success stories, but I lost the last two on removal.

You got to learn to laugh at yourself. Your standard of workmanship probably does t see too many mistakes like this , but it will happen to the best of us. I’ve done many dumb things like this , but I do learn - until I do something different dumb - lol. I would still like to have your skills for efficiency and class of work any day !

Now that’s funny

Timing ! We all make the mistakes . My latest project my Nissan 720 I put the dizzy 180 degrees out on my brand new rebuild . Just wasn’t paying close enough attention . But wait - still wouldn’t start, just sputtered . Find out later that my carb adapter was not tight - AT ALL! Sucking a little too much air . After that engine fires right up

I would think .080 head thickness reduction would be difficult at best to maintain proper valves timing without shims. First you would be slotting your chain guides to slide them over enough to make up for the serious chain slack. I wouldn’t trust doing it without shims unless I could degree the cam. The cool part of that p79 trick with the taller valves is I believe you don’t have to mess with lash pad adjustments ( Guy can verify ) if you keep the stock cam or a slightly modified cam. I currently run my E88 with .050 cut off with no shims. I did degree my Isky cam . I am actually running 8 degrees advance on the cam .

I assisted with painting my car that was done in a garage. It all went well with the base coat, it the clear coat turned into a nightmare . Our ceiling exhaust fan filter decided to come apart while painting the clear. Picked crap out of the paint and shot more clear over the holes to blend the clear. Winded up with using a gallon and a half of clear. Made for fun color sanding . So kudos to you for getting those results in a garage !

Take a close look - it will NEVER look that new, clean , pretty again ?

That’s a lot of shaving to get that CR! I’m gathering at least .080 . Does the n47 have the D shaped biased ports ? Not sure there’s enough in common between the heads to compare - but like you be glad to hear it run

Might be comparing apples to oranges going from a 2.4 to a 2.8 with a small chamber head. I bet it goes . Not a lot of combos like this to compare too. One member on here is running the 54/mn47 but I can’t remember who. Anywho, waiting on my Potter cam to come in to finish this engine build. I am trying to resist the forces of going straight to my 3.2, but it’s tough. I really want to prove a point( might be wrong) , that this head is a really good option for a build.

We are our worst critics . Looks like you are doing this at your own garage and not a paint booth . I can see how straight the doors are from the pics . I am retired now and still would have a hard time dedicating that much time( energy). I would like to work on Z ‘s in retirement for some fun and mad money for myself, but it’s still work at times.

Truly amazing . The paint looks gorgeous. How many hours a week do you devote to Z work?

Amazing find!

Would you elaborate?

What diff do you have ? And did safety wire the bolts?

Apples to oranges - I have the Subby STI diff, so that might things different for me as far as noises. The design might have also evolved to something different also.

I might be wrong - but get ready for some clunking in the rear. There seems to be excessive radial movement in the joint - slop. Supposedly these axles were engineered more specifically for 4wd vehicles. I’m not going to pretend I’m an engineer , but there are some unhappy folks with these. Now I’ve put them thru some serious stress testing , but my HP isn’t to your level. Just today I was under the car cleaning and inspecting and couldn’t find see anything wrong . Initially when I bought these the instructions were okay, but had the wrong torque value on the Allen bolts and I stripped one. After a phone call I got it straightened out. Safety wiring is a bitch .

Never mind

Some dizzies have 17 degrees of vacuum advance so I guess you could see that much with the advance plugged in. There’s a chart out there that tells how much advance based on dizzie number .

Yep- disconnect that vacuum advance . Does it miss at lower rpm pulling a slight hill? How did you know it was 50 degrees ? Was this just revving in the driveway? Ignition issues like to show up with heavy loading at lower rpms -especially if it’s lean. Have you checked your mechanical advance operates smoothly?

It sure if anyone has interest in my truck project , but it’s actually starting to look like something . Always kind of fun getting the body panels on after being off for a year- oh yeah- that’s what it looked like -lol. really anxious to get the motor in and be able to move this thing around. It’s slowing me down not being able to move it to the studio. This will be a fun install. A very tall motor in a tall truck - it will be close !

Very nice .