240ZX

I'm another fan of the ceramic coated headers and have them on my L28. They've been on the Z for 5 years now and the only change I've noticed is a slight dulling of the finish....other than that, they still look in perfect condition. I do agree with the logic for using S.S. headers.....put them on and forget about them. Ti would be nice but, spendy! Tom

Doesn't appear to be a real Scarab but, better described as a HybridZ. Could be a great project for someone! Tom

How about Courtesy Nissan in Texas? Tom

Have you checked with either Red Draggon or MSA? Tom

Jim, I couldn't agree with you more!!!! Rammestien (i before e, a German thing) is most definitely a kick arse band. However, the only music I listen to while driving my Z is from L28! Tom

Point well taken Stephen....just wanted to provide a reminder! You know how some of us older guys tend to....well, forget stuff!!!! Tom

I don't have the MSD unit you speech of but, I do have electronic ingnition and gap my plugs @ .042".....has been working perfectly at this gap for 5 years now on my basically stock N42 motor! Tom

Beyond the manifold/carb set-up and possible poor compression, only one person mentioned anything about ignition. Without adequate ignition to fire the fuel/air charge, all the other stuff is a waste of time if you think you want better performance......it's the proper combination of all aspects of the engine that really makes great HP. Just my 2 cents for thought! Tom

Here's my suggestion, based on experience.....just bit the bullet and order a new combo switch assy.! IIRC, they're about $90.00. Being over 30 years old, the current one you have is most likey just worn out. I went through a number of electrical issue when redoing my 1970 and many of the issues involved circuits that run through this switch assy. Once I replaced it....no more issues. Tom

So, I quess they're not copper however, it is pretty common to use copper ring seals on banjo fittings. You may, like Stephen suggests, find a simliar seal or fabricate one. Tom

By some chance, is the gasket you are refering to on the banjo fitting made from copper? If so, you can reuse it if you anneal it (making it soft again). Heat the sucker up until it just turns cherry red and then quickly drop it is water....should be good to go again! Tom

Yes it does have a rear main seal and it is a one piece unit.....call Courtesy nissan in Texas, they'll get you set up with the seal. Tom

Man these Z's sure do attract the wild life......years back I had an incounter with a jack rabbit at about 60 mph. It was dark and on a long straight away. I just happened to see somethink small charging toward my Z and then BLAMMO....sounded like a gun going off!!! In an instant half of my front fiberglass spoiler goes sailing away into the night. Needless to say, I needed to change my shorts after that episode! Do I qualify as a Wabbit Waister??? Tom

Zenic, Have you searched the web? There should be plenty of sources for Weber parts. Tom

Regarding the springs....if you can find stainless springs, buy'em....they won't rust, they will stay looking good, and work just as well as steel springs for this application. At least mine have been fine since I installed them back in 2000. Tom

I believe MSA sells those knobs.

The one in my avatar is the one I replaced. Looks very nice and was an improvement over having no strut brace at all. The new unit, see MSA cataloge for pic, is in my opinion....just a more efficient design. The down side of the triangulated strut brace is that, in order to remove the cam cover you have to remove the brace....oh well! Anyway, the strut brace you see in my avatar is for sale, make me an offer! IIRC, the unit for sale sold new for $250.00....I have the reciept at home. Tom

Just wanted to let people know my experience converting from a single bar front strut brace to the unit offered by MSA (triangulated brace). Install was pretty simple....as far as aftermarket parts go anyway! I did have to do a little modification to the mounting tabs that attach to the lip on the firewall. They were a tad on the long side and had to shorten them approximately 1/4", as well as, flatten the rearward most part of the tube the tabs are attached to. A few taps with a hand held adjuster reduced the slight curve to a straight section.....fits perfectly now and the small taps with the hand held are not visible. I couldn't hardly beleive that after the slight adjustment, the darn powder coat didn't even chip! OK, you ask....nows the thing work? I was pleasantly surprised at the improvement over the single bar unit. The front end of the Z felt more planted and turn-in is more precise. After experiencing the difference between the two style braces, it's amazing how much less the front of the Z flexes with the trianglated brace (go figure). I'm a happy camper, as the $$$ spent was well worth the results!!! Tom P.S. The polished aluminum NISMO single bar brace is for sale ($100.00 or best offer)

Stephen is correct about the NGK plugs! Just about everyone with an L6 motor eventually discovers that the NGK BP 6ES just seems to work the best. Tom

Art, You didn't mention what year Z you have.....! Another thought to consider is the distributor....as in it's not advancing properly. As many know, if you have upgraded to a ZX dizzy, the advance mechanism goes bad and does not advance properly. Just some food for thought! Tom

The mistery has been solved.......I kept finding an extra $100.00 every once in a while in my checking account!!? Apparently, every time you push the RED button, it transfers $100.00 from your account to mine........keep it up mars23z!!!ROFLROFLROFL

Great minds think alike...... Tom

What else do you need? You need to make it through puberty!

Not too concerned about 0-60mph times, rather who can exicute the next set of twisties the quickest. These are sports cars.....intended for going around curves in style. If I had put as much effort and $$$ into the engine as I have in the suspension and brakes, my '70' would certainly be quicker in a straight line! Tom

The problem you are experiencing is with the adjustment of the said linkage (for the SU's)! I wish I could remember where I saw the article but, I went through the same exercise of trying to figure it out. Basically, it has to do with the positioning of the bell cranks! As a bell crank travels through it's travel path, there are variations in linkage speed. Sorry I can't provide details on the desired adjustment but, it's pretty easy to make changes. Other items that tend to effect the linkage while accellorating are....worn out engine mounts (rubber is seperating and the engine lifts, which = pulling the throttle open)...also worn out bushing where the throttle shaft pivots at the firewall. Anyway, I hope this helps you out to some degree! Tom