Unkle

Make sure that the end of the plug assembly matches the original . The cam is actuated by the end ''lobe'' that matches it's original cam shape , allowing for proper 3-9 o'clock movement and function. If it's upside down it will not work. Dremel is fine as long as where you're modifying isn't hollow cast . My Z car has GM door locks that work great and can't be picked or messed with a key . Really, any lock will work as long as it's the right length and accepts the same cam movement to operate the linkage . PS the one in the pic looks upside down from the original at the end !

"At least the ones I have are assembled by crimping the chrome face plate over the tumbler when it slid in from the front. The only way to disassemble is to un-crimp the faceplate, and I don't know how you would do that without damaging it." To quote part of Sam's reply , to which my reply is : There's a ''Gator'' tool used by locksmiths to remove most facecaps without damage , but I always used replacement caps that have 4 tabs . You crimp these tabs over to hold the whole assembly together , then you reinstall the door lock back into the door . I'm sure you can ask to purchase these at a reputable lock shop that still does automotive work. Most auto work is now a specialty done with code readers and programmers , not old school anymore.

HEY ! Who is this guy Steve ? :laugh:

^ I ripped into him immediately , and he edited his original post. Now I look like the dum dum with a wierd reply to statements in the first post that are not there anymore . Boy, I looked good . Now not so much..

Yes , ''Yankee'' as in ''Johnny Cheese'' as in ''Dutch '' , and I can say the certain generation of those are as ''thrifty'' as they come - politely said of course.:classic: To clarify post # 1 , if you have to buy another door lock, you can have it ''set'' to your existing keys , so you do not need a different key for that replacement lock.

^And there's a difference between gearing for gas and diesel engines with theories for each . My Crown turbo kit runs out of steam at around 6000 rpm for the Z , where the Cummins bags out at 4-6000 depending on load . Size of housing matters too for faster spool up . Exaust diameter , air filter, etc etc.

Well your buying price could be influenced by any immediately needed items ? Tires , brakes would need attention right away . Make sure the trans / clutch does what it should . Take a magnet with you to check for bondo repairs- even a lien check at the end can reveal surprises , even old parking tickets. But we need pics to really know anything else !

Maybe the cables are shot - underneath the plastic / rubber coating there could be massive corrosion . Tough to know unless you take it to a reliable shop at this point maybe...

Are the cables / wires put back the way they were before a new battery was put in ? Did you have the new battery tested ? Did you test the module etc. ? Is the vehicle properly grounded ?

The seller can't get the asking price in this economy , or any other. To spend that kind of money on an average high production car is done everywhere - there's a guy I know that spent over $100,000 on a '67 Dodge 4 door . Totally stock , every nut + bolt. Why ? I dunno - you can't morally justify it , I don't care what kind of excuse you come up with . Value of money is different to everybody - the next guy needs $100,000 to pay for his sick kid's medical bills . Anyhoo good luck seller , nice car .

Sigh....... ever get the feeling your mouth is moving but there's no sound coming out ? You need to put a big red circle around the area in the pic , with lots of arrows and stuff.....

^ Gotcha Yes I know more about heart surgery than polycarbonates , and I am no PHD.

^ I agree . Just getting the chrome / stainless frame to fit perfectly would be the real challenge I think - a good contact with the rubber gasket and headlight '' scoop '' would also eliminate moisture / fog . I would think the poly lense itself would be the cheapest part to make once the initial shape is perfected , allowing purchasers to buy spares along with the entire assembly . I don't think keeping it a certain style to easily tell if it's a ''fake'' or not should be in anyone's interest right now, as that arguement went out the door with repro throttle handles etc. Nobody seemed to care about originality then ! I would also like a set , but it's tough to justify the cost of originals right now .

Well you also have to note the cracking issues with certain ones. I would stick with the JDM reproduction units , 4 screw set with no lower torque / bend / crack problems that Kats eluded to .

Totally '' To each his own '' . I get kicks out of the comments ....'' Dope sauce'' ? :laugh:

The decorative ''trim plate '' underneath a lock on a door , be it automotive or residential.

'' Dial string for a radio '' Seriously , do you think anyone under 20 knows what the heck this is ?

For sale , Hemmings Motor News Rhode Island, $17,500 beauty ''untouched''. Pics on website ! http://s836.photobucket.com/albums/zz285/Atannen/

So another question - since all early cars are supposed to have plastic ''sugar scoops'' , would this pose a problem for a strong mount for the headlight cover metal fasteners ? Those base screws look awfully short and tiny !

Well what have we done - now he wants $1500 shipped. Anyway I'll wait for a pair that aren't worth 1/10th of my car.....

Try shifting into second gear........ Oh I'm so funny . Yep fuel pump related IMO.

HEY ! Step off ! I'm the one whining for a set , get back in line !

the problem is - as was noted by someone earlier - he paid someone in Mexico and the seller disappeared. FWIW, Carl B. The peso reference was toungue in cheek - I was the buyer who got ripped off by the Mexican seller - but lucky me Mastercard refunded my money..... Carl, you would know - is there a decent repro set available that's tried and true ?

See now I get it - same seller, different items . My ebay notifier read '' seller has relisted these items '' and I took it for granted these were the same . Even the description is the same , save for the bad mouthing of Australian and Canadians - as if our money spends differently , like the peso .

I'm very disappointed. Is there any workaround for making these fit, or are they high priced junk?? So you're the one that outbid me , eh ? You then have them already to know that they don't fit ? As I have gathered , the genuine Nissan ''reproduction'' covers are the ones that don't have any future defects without modification of some sort. And, now that I'm really looking at them, they ARE mismatched ! The screw holes are in different locations. Wait , are we looking at the same pics of the ones that you won ? I think I'm confused ......