Daniel

Since we know the pcv attaches to the block and works as a on/ off valve..There is a smaller hose that connects to the monster block breather.That upon quick inspection I believe to be a connnection for the vent side of the fuel rail.My question is when the pcv toggles on/off,that would cause a change in vacuum on that return-------Right?perhaps it helps ?Maybe?

somewhere is a connection to the brake booster.

I have a friend that vented his hood back when it was the fad.His thoughts are that it looks great!The down side is If you get into rain the water WILL run into the engine It will cause rust,running problems.Spray your engine with a hose and go for a ride.The other was dust entry into the engine compartment as well as cleaning the darn little slots!!Getting wax out is a big job.Garage queen-no problem.Daily driver= hours of enjoyment if you like cleaning your Zcar:love:

It is a positive crankcase vent.It goes from that piece you showed to the big vent tube that comes out of your block,under the dist.Its job is to suck out the gas/vapor that build up in the block when the car is cold.My understanding is that not using it will cause gunk to build in your engine and reduce the lube properties of the oil( as gas mixed with oil is).It sucks that vapor out and reburns it.

Thats almost like one of those questions from the IQ test you sent me Keith. The chokes are Closed when the handle is toward the rear. They are off/open/not in use when the handle is forward.

The first item of course is fuel filter or filters.I had to say it.The next item is the air filter.I had a friend that his foam air cleaner would restrict flow.A test without would verify that.Plug gap incorrect I have also seen cause this.Sorry for so little help.Has the car ever run correct or is this new?What changed?

When the cars were new and would break a cable the shop would put the car on a lift.Get a lot of socket extentions.Go from the bottom and remove the screws that hold the latch to the hood.

What you suggest on the shifter seems workable.A thought I would offer is this.I can't tell how thick the wall of the shifter would be after you drill into it.What if you thread the outside and add a coupling to attach the shifter.That way if it ever has thread wear you can always retap to a smaller size and coupling.With the internal threads I don't think you could go larger and you stand a chance of tearing the metal around thehole.If the internal threads fail you're off to the bone yard for another shifter to cut down.External you can fix it in the car.Do my thoughts seem correct?

As a lifetime mechanic friend says--Do you want to open that can??Just installing the motor will open more unknown cans before that task is done .Then you can drive the car.You may still open that other can at any time.Buying those other items is just the start.Then you should be thinking the "while you're there"I want new bushings,u joints shocks etc.Myself I love it when I can drive my car.Even if it sits in the garage for months,I know I can go anytime.If it's down I bust my butt until all is well.That said -Do you want to open another" can' with the engine out "can "still open?

A couple of tips Mark the position of the driveshaft to the rearend flange before removing.I have read that they are balanced at the factory and I like to keep the same position as they were.Also I would suggest just dropping that end of the shaft as a removal will allow the tranny fluid to pour out and you may damage the old seal upon reinstall.

I would rather remove the console than the heater panel any day.I stack up wood at the rear of the console to hold the angle needed to then unscrew the choke.Hold the choke tight until both screws are removed.We don't want to stress the remaining screw support.Tape the screw to the screwdriver when reinstalling.After your sure it is threaded good pull down and the tape will release.Then finish the tightening--Gently!!Tip.With the console out go around the choke screw supports with JB weld as thats where they snap off.The extra strength can help extend the life of it.

There is no reverse syncro.Put the car in first (which has one)Then reverse.That stops the grind.I remembered pulling a friends tranny when I was young because of shifting problems.We took it to the shop and the guy said--Looks good what did the fluid look like?.We just looked dumb at each other.There was none in it.We reinstalled and put in fluid.He drove the car another 10 years or so with no trouble.

The quick answer is ALT.I've had that also.I would suggest cleaning the battery terminals on BOTH ends battery/car to ensure the battery had a clean path to charge also is the alt belt just loose?Did the fuse or fusable link just get old and weak and burn up?.Should the alt not be the answer next would be voltage reg.My first thought is that you are just throwing parts at the problem in hopes of a fix,I wish you the best luck, and if it hasn't been replaced it would be a suggested future project anyway.That doesn't mean I would continue my troubleshooting in that fashion unless you have VERY deep pockets.Replace the belt also.While you're there----

Alot of dash work has been posted lately.I wish to offer some food for thought. If you have ever taken the AMP/FUEL from a 240 thru the glovebox it is a pain and its the easy way!! The 280's had a pigtail(screwed to gauge to plugable wiring harness connector about 6 inches long).They learned the error of the hand through the gauge hole holding gauge/wrench from glove box(what the hell would a lefthander do?).I would suggest adding a pigtail to the AMP guage given the chance.You will pat yourself on the back at a later date.Years from now you will want to remove it and that wrench behind the dash will twist the gauge post or at a minimum crack your dash with your hand thru the holeUnplug it and go to the bench.HMMMMM

Alot of the little intermit issues that drive you crazy can be fixed.Switches must be exercized.Why does the little brake switch work for so many years yet that under hood light needs a couple of flips before it functions correctly(until the next time).The better switches make contact at a slight angle as to scrub the contacts clean when used.Your parents always said "don't twist the knob off that!!"You should!!.300z's are bad about radio static when you move the volume control.With the car off.Spin the knob from min to max until you get bored.If it slides--slide it. if it clicks--click it.I work the over head light door switch by pushing it in and letting it pop out --nice fresh ground path (battery disconnected,don't want to do a fuse test!).When was the last time you worked that dimmer switch for the dash?.This works on all devices TV's home stereo,Work them all.Let me know what you fix!

ERRR--- AHHH---O.K--5 choices. Welcome Zbabe.I like your line of thinking.

Two choices.1)the emer brake switch is bad or such.Disconnect one side of the switch to see if it turns the light off.2)The 280 I think has the master cyl.switches in the caps.Check the wires/connectors and Look inside the caps for A stuck float or however those switches work.See if they feel the same when you move them.Disconnect one at a time to see if the light goes off.Remember those/that master cylinder switch has not been used in a long time easy to believe it stuck.Work it by hand a few times

That would be Cherry point in Havelock.Its still the beach.No I'm in Charlotte North carolina

Marty ,Morehead is a beach.Of course we know about Z's and salt.I do have a friend there..If you meant Charlotte NORTH car. I would be happy to look for you.You may have meant charleston south.

Somewhat trail&error but notice the two stops that determine the travel limits for the arm.When the adjustment screw is used it will then change the travel on the contact patch therefore changing the resistance sent to the gauge.Look at the unit and it will make sense.By putting a ground to the sending unit housing you can move it by hand to see what it reads.Once the arm is against the "Full" stop it cant go anyfuther.Same with the empty stop.Use the adjustment to vary resistance to make the gauge read correctly.

As the float goes up there is a contact that rides up with it.A visual of your new unit will be obvious.Mine showed over so I moved my arm down.That meant the contact did not travel as far up and gave it more down travel.See what you get with a full up and then down gauge reading.Odds are your old unit just needs cleaning up.Oh yeah I put a little vaseline on the rubber doughnut gasket so it would not bind and tear when reinstalling the unit

I don't know what kroil is.I like liquid wrench.Since you have the time I would soak it often before tearing stuff.BIG TIP! When you replace the sending unit note the small adjustment screw on the float arm.If you just put it in as I did you will most likely have to remove it as I did to adjust it.Mine was empty at 1/4 tank and showed 1/4 passed F when full before adjustment.I used small female electrical connectors to slide on the sending unit post.Then covered with silicone for weatherproofing.

I fought a similar demon.I also had resistance putting the car in first.Mine was a worn out clutch.Make sure your slave cylinder is giving a full push as it could be weak.It could just use a good bleeding.To test the syncro go from first to neutral and let the clutch out then push it back in and go to second.Thats called double clutching.The old days there were no syncros and thats how you shifted without grind.

Why is it that we never hear about ---I was cleaning the connectors on my 30 + year old wiring harness------We hear--- this doesn't work --.If you can touch a factory connector ,unplug it in and out again and again,shine is fine.The wire won't fail it will be at a connection point.How many times have you overlooked the opportunity during a rebuild?

While you're there----Just twisting the other lamp sockets will scrub a fresh ground path.Myself,I would do that then install new bulbs.Of course the battery is disconnected.The Alt. Gauge nut and washers are brass and therefore oxidize.At a minimum I would GENTLY!!!! See if they would accept a little snuging down.Remember you are using the gauge post as the focal point for the pressure your wrench applies. Don't hurt the Gauge!