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Marty Rogan

Fuel sending unit removal

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While I've go the entire suspension out, I am replacing the fuel sending unit that stopped working. They wires were corroded and one broke off while trying to remove it. Strange way they had that attached! The other wire just appeared to be soldered on.

Anyway, everything is rusty and crusty down there. Soked it with Kroil, but the reatining ring does not want to turn. It does seem pretty thin. Do you see any problem with just bending it under the tabs to remove it? I have all brand new parts anyway.

TIA,

Marty

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I don't know what kroil is.I like liquid wrench.Since you have the time I would soak it often before tearing stuff.BIG TIP! When you replace the sending unit note the small adjustment screw on the float arm.If you just put it in as I did you will most likely have to remove it as I did to adjust it.Mine was empty at 1/4 tank and showed 1/4 passed F when full before adjustment.I used small female electrical connectors to slide on the sending unit post.Then covered with silicone for weatherproofing.

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Kroil is some really amazing penetrating oil. It is about 100 times better than WD-40. I have removed rusty manifold bolds easily with this stuff.

So how do you go about adjusting the sender unit? It has been broke, so I don't know how much gas is in there. I know it is not alot, since I was keeping an eye on how many miles I had driven.

Marty

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As the float goes up there is a contact that rides up with it.A visual of your new unit will be obvious.Mine showed over so I moved my arm down.That meant the contact did not travel as far up and gave it more down travel.See what you get with a full up and then down gauge reading.Odds are your old unit just needs cleaning up.Oh yeah I put a little vaseline on the rubber doughnut gasket so it would not bind and tear when reinstalling the unit

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Daniel,

So this this is just trial and error anyway? There is no way to get it accurate, BEFORE you put it in and fill it up?

Marty

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Somewhat trail&error but notice the two stops that determine the travel limits for the arm.When the adjustment screw is used it will then change the travel on the contact patch therefore changing the resistance sent to the gauge.Look at the unit and it will make sense.By putting a ground to the sending unit housing you can move it by hand to see what it reads.Once the arm is against the "Full" stop it cant go anyfuther.Same with the empty stop.Use the adjustment to vary resistance to make the gauge read correctly.

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