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e_racer1999

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Everything posted by e_racer1999

  1. ^^ i believe they have mandrel benders....
  2. it looks a little squashed on top. kinda like they used up all of their material on the bottom half and had to make the top short. glass shortage maybe?
  3. http://www.cardesignnews.com/news/2004/040813ford-gr1/ this one has a ton of specs: http://www.fast-autos.net/ford/fordgr1.html
  4. hmm.... i didn't know that the fairlady roadster was called a "z"..... you learn something new everyday
  5. VB = victoria british... go to victoriabritish.com to get a catalog. and yes, 240zx is correct. the 3-2-1 is good for low end power since it provides better exhaust velocity (NOT to be confused with the evil and misunderstood demon that is backpressure) while the 6-1 provides the best flow. the set-up that i plan on running is the MSA 6-1 aerospace coated header with their turbo 2.5" exhaust... IMHO the best set-up
  6. ya, looks stock to me!
  7. correct me if i'm wrong, but mounting the battery in the rear will screw up the weight ratio in a Z.... isn't the weight distribution 55/45 (r/f)? unless you are going for drag, that's gonna make the car handle even MORE like an MR
  8. that sounds like an original valve cover.
  9. okay, update: i tried swapping out the 20A fuse for a 10A, still no dice. i disassembled the T/S switch and cleaned the carbon and it's still not working.... any other ideas?
  10. haha... i thought you were talking about a haircut.... anyway, ya it does look like it has been milled a bit
  11. ok..... makes sense now...
  12. you mean there's a fuel level warning lamp??? wow..... never knew that
  13. san diego here... not ZCSD yet though
  14. ... could be the reason it's a 4-cyl!
  15. yes, i used an ohm meter.... AND i tried jumper....ing.... the wires but to no avail. tomorrow i get half a day off so i'm going to continue troubleshooting this... the time and experience is worth saving the hundreds of dollars....
  16. thanks for the file, but i've already been perplexed my FSM AND my chiltons.... this is getting so annoying! it sucks having to work all the time and not fixing my car... anyway, thanks for all of the help!
  17. okay cleaned and fixed my fuse block. check. now for the toughie.. the brake lights. they STILL don't work. tested the brake switch: operating perfectly. it appears that somehow the green/yellow wire that runs from the fuse block (+) turns into a negative (-) wire at the combination switch and brake switch. does anyone know if this is how it's supposed to be? i used a test light between the fuse block and the green/yellow combo wire and it lit up. if this is how it's supposed to be PLEASE let me know so i know where to look for the short. also, does the hazard switch do that or could it be burned out? the hazards still work which is throwing me off... anyway, thanks!
  18. ok, thanks.... that's rather diasappointing....
  19. also, i noticed it has the pull-out hazard switch and it appears to have a 260 intake manifold (short studs)
  20. i;m assuming that the answer to this question will be no... but has anyone done this before? is it possible even with fabrication?
  21. ^^ black rear valence
  22. thanks guys... i looked at the switch earlier and it APPEARED fine, but appearances are sometimes misleading. the only thing that kinda tossed me was that the brake lights stopped working and the fuse box got hot at the same time. this is what is leading me to believe that there's a stupid short in some hard to get to area at a common junction. anyway, i'll get out my multimeter when i get home from work and check la resistance...
  23. cool thanks! ya, i read a bunch of different threads and pages about the problem, just not how to fix it! anyway, would that help my problem w/ my brake lights? b/c as of now i have no car....
  24. after some thought i figured that... also, after another series of driving it DIDN'T fix the problem, just made it a little less obvious.... so back to the old drawing board
  25. well.... i don't know what happened, but all of a sudden my brake lights quit working. it's not the bulbs and there aren't any obvious problems. coincidentally (or not) when i turn on my lights the left connector of the "tail" fuse gets hot and has since melted the plastic (GRRRR).... HELP! this is my daily driver and only car, and before anyone tells me to search i already have to no avail.... anyway, thanks
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