Bambikiller240

Or lift up the carpet and jute.

Yes, indeed!

Hopefully not, and don't call him Shirley!

Alpha! You finally posted your picture! Not at all what I expected you to look like. So, How does "it" feel?

No dents like you describe on my 72 240Z. Do you have a picture? The only dents I've seen on Z floors have been caused by people using floor jacks where they shouldn't have used them.

I've heard of people using 225's, so 215's ought to be fine. Especially with coil-overs. You can set the ride height to what ever you need to keep the tires away from the fenders. Just make sure you get zero offset Panasports. BTW, you must have SMOOOOOTH roads where you live to consider using 40 series tires on the street. In my neck of CA, your wheels would be ruined in short order what with all the pot holes around here.

Garage design has been discussed previously. Might want to read THIS THREAD

MSA sells 16 X 7 Panasports, so they must fit. www.zcarparts.com

Well, I thought about it, but..................................OK I admit it. I was too busy playing on that site to stop and post here.

My condolances to the Mrs. You should take some remedial classes. :devious: :cheeky:

Hi Sean: Check out this THREAD . I posted a list of production figures from www.zhome.com.

I'm not even close to being a doctor, but in reading the web page you linked to...........that is some serious stuff, not to be messed with. Hope your friend is already being treated by professionals and will be cured.

Damn, Sorry to hear that Victor. Are the Cops on the job yet? All you So Cal folks, keep an eye out for Vic's car. Lots of pictures in his gallery. Let's see if we can nap the A-holes that snatched it!

YES, 151 HP is GROSS with nothing attached to the engine. NO, kmack's figures are at the rear wheels as he indicated in his post.

Depends on the size of your boat. There were approx 9500 260Z 2+2 cars imported to the USA according to www.ZHome.com

Ooh yeah, that's something to brag about. Using the hand me down, leftovers from another brand for your new models. Real "forward" thinking there by Chrysler M-B.

That was what I thought I remembered seeing posted. If the car has to pass emissions testing, I wouldn't be removing anything. JMO (as usual) Carl

The 73 had some nice upgrades from the earlier Z's like the intermittant wipers (mentioned by Frank13), and the heater control panel was lighted (which is nice if you've ever had to grope around in the dark to adjust the controls). I would not shy away from a 73 in the same condition as an earlier Z. Swap in the roundtop carbs and perhaps the bumpers and the car would perform as well as an earlier car.

Back when 240Z's were being built and sold as new cars, the HP rating listed in the brochures and Data tags was calulated in what was called GROSS HP meaning the engine was on a test bed with no accessories like an alternator, EGR pump, (and probably not even a water pump driven by the engine). The figure was nice for advertizing, but was certainly NOT a real world number with validity for the buyer. Somewhere in the mid to late 70's (in the USA) the gov't mandated the use of SAE NET horsepower figures which meant that the engine HP rating had to be measured on an engine equipped with all accessories found on the production automobile.

Yup. Chrysler ME-412 Concept Car

ah yes. Illinois, winter, gotcha! If you will be driving the car (hopefully not in snow and salted roads) you might want to have a shop put it on a lift and inspect the rear just to be sure something isn't going to fall off before you can work on the car. Safety first and all that.

Seller says the dark color in the engine bay is ZBart coating applied by the dealer. In several other threads we have discussed the air cleaner and carbs being different than would be expected on an "all original" 73 Z car. Also, after 59K miles and 30 years, any smell in the interior could not possibly be a "new car smell" as stated in the auction.

I don't know how much you know about Z's or your experience in working on them, but have you carefully examined the rear suspension to see if anything is damaged or loose? Does the car have aftermarket strut inserts that are significantly stiffer than stock that might be transmitting every liitle bump more than a stock (softer) suspension might ?

..............and ALL of the rubber in the car (weatherseals, bushings, hydraulic & drivetrain seals) are 30 years old. It is a very nice looking car, but IMO the buyer (if it sells) should expect to be spending some money on replacing rotted rubber items throughout the car at the very least.

Is the rear end moving around side to side or up and down? I would suspect bad struts before I'd suspect the bushings to be the cause, but 30 yr old bushings are usually in need of replacement anyway. It would seem to me that if the bushings were the sole cause, that this would occur without hitting bumps, in other words; it would occur in normal driving and changing directions on smooth roads. In order for the suspension to work properly, ALL components of the suspension must be in good condition.