Bambikiller240

To avoid the issues with a Silver emblem (discussed in prior posts) I was wondering if using Stainless Steel for an emblem might be an alternative?

I used to tell my (ex)wife that I was going to get HOTPUSZ as the plate on the first Z I tricked out :stupid: Figured that might keep her from wanting to drive it all the time! guess I'd better go back to bed.........

Craig really did me a big favor, that is for sure. I can't wait to take the car out for a long drive. It's been a looooong time! I need to get one last piece of the puzzle completed before going on a run with you guys, and that is to get a hood on the car. I'd be totally paranoid to park the car and leave it anywhere with all her goodies hanging out unprotected. (Carbs are just 8 nuts away from eBay if you know what I mean.) If I can get the hood on and aligned I'm up for it. If not, I will be ready for the next one for sure. Timing is going to be the key, as I may end up on a road trip to deliver a 300ZX-TT across country for a mail list member sometime in the next few weeks.

http://www.ttzd.com/movies/archive/mpgs.html

Just wanted to say THANK YOU to Craig for stopping by this afternoon and doing me the huge favor of settig up my new (been sitting in my parts bin for over 2 years) ZTherapy carbs. The major flat spot at 4000 RPM that I've been experiencing since my engine rebuild has been eliminated with the installation and set up of the shiney new carbs. A little more tweaking on the ignition timing, and clutch adjustment and I'll be jamming. Thanks again Craig for helping me so much. If I can return the favor in any way, just let me know. I wish we could have chatted more. Never did get to check out under your hood. Carl

This could indicate a Timing Cover gasket problem or a hole/crack in the Timing cover itself.

Hey Robert: Here is a picture of a distributor with the adjustment points indicated. The adjustment point that most folks use is the one between the distributor and the distributo mounting plate. (the slot shown in the attachment) There is another point on the distributor body that can gain you more adjustment at the slot. If I'm not explaining this in a way that makes sense, PM to me with any questions and we can take it from there. The main thing is to be able to get the timing where it needs to be no matter where you have to put the Dist/Oil Pump Driveshaft to get it. It's just nicer to be able to have a range of adjustment and everything else set normally. Minimizes the chances for later errors to be made.

Not all radiators are built of the same quality and thickness of materials. Any warranty is only as good as your ability to reach out to the seller, and his willingness to accomdate your situation. I've never bought a radiator from MSA, or the eBay seller. I prefer to have my radiators re-cored locally by people I know and can find when I need them. I have generally paid almost double what the eBay guy is charging and have been very satisfied with the transactions, Just a couple of things to think about.

Optimism is a wonderful thing, when tempered by realism. Here is to your Victoria Secret fantasy. If yours comes true, then maybe my similar one will be next. But that car........................................needs buyer with truely "rose colored" glasses.

Ray Charles?

That is what I perceived your message to be. No harm, no foul as far as I am concerned.

I think some of you folks are being a little harsh towards MikeW. Maybe he should have ignored the post entirely, but I don't feel that he deserves to be labled a snob by you guys. If you want to help "silent", jump on in and do so, but IMO y'all should ZIP IT when it comes to labling other members in any way. PERIOD!

It could. But it could also be a sticking Thermostat (more likely IMO).

Looks like a friggin doorstop! If it wasn't for bad taste, some people wouldn't have any taste at all.:sick: :sick: :sick:

Nate: If you don't yet have Wick Humble's "How to restore Z Cars" book, I'd recommend you get it. It has many helpful nuggets of information. FWIW, your timeline of being done by mid-July sounds like an impossibility unless you have very little work to do on it, or have nothing else to do (like a job, or a life) except working on the car all day, everyday (and night). Of course, I don't know you, or your car, but I have done what you are going to be attempting, and it took me well over 6 months to get it all done. Maybe I just work slow.

Kats: Are you flying the 240Z to the Z Car National Convention in Long Beach, California??????

Just did a search on "Datsun 240Z" and looked through 10 pages of stuff. Couldn't find them.

It sounds more like you have Clutch, or Clutch Release (Throw-Out) Bearing problems rather than Transmission problems.

Try Chloe at www.midwestz.com If it is available, she can get it.

One thing to think about is..........Drakes Beach is often cold and grey, all day. Santa Cruz ican be that way also, but not as often from my experience. Both are nice places, but FAR different from each other.

Robert: I don't know if you are aware, but there are two bolts that can impact the timing of the distributor relative to the crankshaft. I suspect from your description of the timing situation that you encountered this weekend, that one of these bolts is adjusted to it's maximum and locked in place, while you are then required to remove the remaining bolt in order to approach proper timing. I will try to get some pictures for your reference on this matter. Probably will be Monday or Tuesday before I can get them. Headgasket leaking could certainly cause rough running. 130 is low if all others are near 160-170 What are they all reading). Any sign of water leaking externally (to atmoshere)? Is oil turning into pudding? Don't give up yet.

As of now, No. Still haven't had money or help to get my SU carbs sorted out. I really wish I could attend. Anyone in the East Bay area really know SU's and be willing to check'em out, show me how to set them up? I'm tired of not being able to drive the car, but money is an issue in regard to sending it to a shop.

That is my recollection of a previous discussioin regarding these cars on the IZCC mail list. "I think" that is what Carl Beck indicated. If I am recalling 100% correct, it was suggested (by various participants) that the only way to be certain if a car was in fact a Factory Black Pearl, was if the paint type and color was Factory OEM "everywhere", all accessory items were present and verifiable as original OEM. No painted pinstripes, 280zx-t engines, aftermarket mirrors, sunshades, etc. Pity that Nissan didn't keep better track of stuff like this. Here is a little info from Zhome.com INTRODUCTION: The 1978 Black Pearl Edition 280Z was the first black Z Car Produced. It was actually a test market device to determin if the color black should be added to the Z Car model line colors. It was so successful that in 1979 with the introduction of the 280ZX Datsun featured their all Black 280ZX's in their "Black Gold" ad.'s. We know what at least one Black Pearl Edition with the "SPORTS APPEARANCE PACKAGE" was sent to each Authorized Datsun Dealer in 1978, with the larger volume Dealers receiving more than one. Thus at least 850 Black Pearl Editions with the SAP were produced and most likely something closer to 1200 or 1500 of them. We have no offical production figures for the number of cars which received only the Black Pearl Metalic Paint (but not, the Sports Appearance Package.).

I believe that it is the place that rents Z cars which was featured in some newspapers a while back. Ther is a thread about is somewhere in the forums.

Of course he can do whatever he wants to his car. Don't think anyone said he couldn't , or shouldn't unless I missed something. BUT, I 100% disagree with your statement quoted above. If it is modded in anyway, it is no longer an original BP. It WAS a BP, and may at some point, be restored to be one again. Just like other variations of S30, there are specific criteria to be met to be considered a BP BTW AFAIK, the serial numbers of Black Pearl edition cars are not traceable.