Bambikiller240

Pictures???

Maybe there is a reason? Not everyone likes any car for all the same reasons as another person. It's OK for you to think that a 73 240Z is the Cat's Meow, but not everyone has to agree with you. When they don't agree with you, it shouldn't lessen your enjoyment of the car you like, or be an afront to your sensibilites if you don't let it bother you. If the BOAT ANCHOR carbs have been removed and Round Tops added, is it really still a 73 240Z anymore? Or just a heavier 72 Z (door beams and bumpers) :stupid: Rock Stock compared to Rock Stock, Year for Year, IMO the statement was correct for many people,, but certainly not for all. But that's not to say that a stock 73 doesn't have some features that are an improvement over the features from prior years Z cars.

I've owned 1971, 1972, and 1973 240Z's and the only one that had actual steel "no sag" springs in the seats was the 73. All of the others had the strap support systems. I believe that they made the switch in '73 due to the requirement for seat belt warning sensors to be installed in the seats.

Could be a U-Joint in one of the Half-Shafts starting to go bad.

Cut Ghosen's paycheck in half and apply that money to the added cost to fix the 350ZX's shortcomings. Problem solved.

........Boob's thread?

I'd use these : http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=7806 The others are BOAT ANCHORS

YES. Bleed nipples should be at the TOP on both sides. With a bleeder on the bottom, you'll never, ever get the air out of the system. Put on your rubber gloves and bury that caliper as described above.

In CA, (since the EPA finally banned MTBE) all the gas stations that I've bought from have stickers on the pumps indicating that they are using 10% ethanol. Here we don't have any choice of percentages, you buy what they sell and it seems to all be the same 10% blend.

more of a brand, than a tatoo. But painful none the less.

Most types of brake fluid will absorb moisture. I flush my brake and clutch systems every 2 years as a preventative maintainance procedure.

.........and 260Z bumpers are bigger than 70-72 240Z bumpers. There aren't many reasons to want to put 260Z bumpers on a 240Z. 260Z bumpers may not be as big and ugly as 280Z bumpers, but they ARE bigger and uglier that 240Z bumpers.

No thanks, I'll stick with anti-seize compound.

It was hard for me to get into position, but you just have to lay on your back (on the floorpan) facing upward under the dash with a flashlight in your hand. You're going to be looking at the point where the CMC yolk and the pedal arm are connected via the clevis pin. Use you hand to begin to depress the clutch pedal and observe the connection point as you do so. There should be no slop in the connection. If you can't see well, you can pull the cotter key so you can remove the clevis pin. What you want to see is a round (approx 8mm dia) hole in the pedal arm and a clevis pint hat is not distorted. What you may see is a slot in the pedal arm where the formerly round hole has been enlarged by the clevis pin (which will most likely be severely damaged itself). If that's what you see, that is your problem. FWIW, you can remove the clutch pedal by itself, but you shouldn't need to do that to examine the connection. If the pedal arm is slotted, you'll need to pull the pedal arm and have it repaired. I had a bushing with an 8mm hole in it welded into the pedal arm to restore proper function.

Since it has been "linked to", rather than saved and then posted here Eric may have a doubley valid point. This eats up his bandwidth AND uses an image that he has posted notice of copyright without permission. Not the classiest thing I've seen done here. :cross-eye

.....and the chutch pedal arm itself. In my experience the pin and pedal arm will wear the most and can become quite deformed.

I've used a product familiar to people who have served in the military. It's called Brasso. Liquid metal polish (mildly abrasive).

You can't do it. You have to contact a moderator and request that they do it for you.

Better to find out now than when you first need to STOMP on the brakes.

OK, who do you think it came from? EDIT: Nevermind, I found it. http://www.historybuff.com/library/refbarnum.html

Ruger Mini-14 (.223) w/ Scope

Last time I looked at zchicksz.com, it seemed that they were more into Z32, Z33 than S30. Wrong kind of girlz for me.

Will AND P.T. Barnum were right! 'nuff said.

I installed my MSA S/S clutch line without washers, without tape, & without sealant. Just used Anti-Seize crayon and it's been good for 2 years so far.