ChrisA

Hello all, Thanks for the feedback so far. Tonight I removed everything from the head. I decided to do a trial fit and make sure everything would go smoothly. So far so good. Carbs/linkage/balance tube all fit the N36 manifolds like they were meant to be there. I thought I had a pretty tidy engine bay till I got all the stuff off. A good cleaning is in order after its back together. I took David's (dspillman) advice and will dyno a set that I did NO porting on and then will dyno the ported set. Three dyno runs ought to prove one way or the other. I've attached some more pics. I shot a close up of the butterfly on my ZT carbs I got in 1998. Chris

Hi Danny, I used a product called radiator tape or a/c tape. Got it at a local shop that does air conditioning work. I cut strips long enough to do the job, then cut those strips in half lengthwise. Then doubled them up to fill the gap. I tried the foam weatherstrip stuff from the hardware store but it just didnt meet my standards. Good luck to you. Chris

Currently I have two Z's. Both 73's. One is in storage and needs work. The other stays at home in the garage driven only on dry roads. I used to have a 71 but it was rusted beyond reasonable repair (even by mull's standards) and I had a 72 that belongs to Bill Ramsey now. The stored 73 is all original. No mods but Western Cyclone wheels (yuck) and rear window louvers. Flat top carbs too! The Z at home has most of your basic mods. And a list of more waiting to be done. When I have the time I plan to redo the other Z. I really enjoy Z cars and being a member of this club and Z Cars of Nebraska as well. Chris

Hi Eric, Welcome to the group. Love that color on your Z. Have fun. Chris

Try these two seperate tests for sending unit then gauge. First, test the sending unit. 1) Disconnect wires from tank sending unit. 2) Set your multimeter to the resistance function. 3) Connect meter leads to terminals of sending unit. 4) Move the sending unit float arm through a full swing. 5) If your multimeter detects a change in resistance during the swing, the sending unit is good. Second, test the gauge. 1) Check for power at the gauge (key on). 2) Check for good grounds. 3) Turn key to ACC or RUN postion. 4) Install jumper wire across terminals of sending unit while having a helper watch the reaction of the gauge. 5) If the gauge needle moves across the full scale then gauge is working. If the gauge needle didn't move then its a wiring problem or the sending unit is bad. Obviously you must remove the sending unit from the tank to test it so I'd probably check the gauge first. Much luck to you. Chris A.

Well thanks Alan, that means a lot coming from you. Chris

I sell all the Lucas line at my shop. The product does what it claims. Although the one negative I found was on an L28 that had a couple valve stem seals going bad. Tended to smoke a bit more on the Lucas. But, it did raise the oil pressure at idle by 9 pounds. The folks on this site that ran STP Motor Treatment and saw what it did to a crankcase will understand what Lucas will do to a motor. I personally dont put anything in my engine oil. I use Lucas in the gearbox and differential. They run cooler and quieter. I'd be interested to know if the GM additive leaves such a heavy coating on internal parts. FWIW, Chris A.

For those interested in genuine Dana Spicer U Joints for their 240Z, here are the part numbers you would need. See attached chart. Position 1 and 2 = Part Number 5-1501X Postions 3 thru 6 = Part Number 5-1505X If you have a shop in your area that does driveline work and sells Dana Spicer, you can have them ordered in.

We'll never know will we. But thanks for the reply to the original topic of this thread. I just knew we'd hear from you.

A certain member here would tell you its because Americans are fat and lazy and wouldn't appreciate a good car if they had the chance to buy one.

Yungman, where are you located? You can get most common parts at any good auto parts store. Hoses, fuel line and such aren't hard to find unless you happen to be in the Arctic or something. Take a sample to the store with you, easier for the parts person to have something to see. Not all parts reference books are correct. Trust me, I'm a parts man. Good luck to you. Chris A.

Great stuff there zsaint, did you replate all the yellow cad parts or get new stuff? Beautiful engine bay. Chris

Hi Steve, Member jmortensen recently thought that member Matman had some manifolds. Try PM'ing them. And member dspillman said he had a set also. Much luck to you. Chris A.

Hi Guys, Way off topic here. Any of you have any first hand experience with OBDII code readers and which brands have you had success with. Thanks is advance, Chris A.

Ask Rick, he started this fun thread!

Hey I've got a 72 Olds Cutlass Supreme convertible in grade B condition. I'll sell it for 15K right now. PM me if you want pics. White with 2 year old black top, new exhaust, new suspension, new tires. Sport pack with dual side mirrors and floor shifter. Professionally built 350 Rocket, zero body rust. It was my fathers and he died last year, I have no use for it at all. Chris A.

Seller of silver 1970 vin #4112 has updated listing to say there is RUST!!

Hi John, thanks for the video. Can you tell me what camera and mount you use? Chris

The other "Iron Cross" wheel in better picture. thanks daddz http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=9488&d=1128624144

Hi Rick, You and your family have a Happy Easter also. And all our other members too. Chris A.

Hi, Call this number 800-208-2444, ask for Tom. He has a 77 RHD Fairlady Z missing its original engine. I thought he once told me it came with an L20. Maybe he'll buy yours so his is closer to original again. Can't hurt to call. Much luck, Chris A.

Thanks Victor for all the great links and photos. Did you really drive the roadster through that stream over the road? Brave man you are indeed! Chris A.

Okay guys, I've decided to give in to the myth about the 260Z N36 manifolds being better than the E46's. My 240Z has been punched oversize. Not sure how much as previous owner couldnt remember. Car has a stage 1 cam and ZT carbs. I've never had it on a dyno but it definitely is stronger than a bone stock 73 Z as I have one of those as well. I have upgraded the ignition also. So I bought a set of N36 manifolds on eBay and decided, what the heck, I'll be my own guinea pig. I made a jig to mount the manifolds and I'm doing some mild porting to get rid of the parting line roughness. Its amazing how rough they actually are. I've read as much on the subject as I want and I know some will say the manifolds need a little roughness to keep the fuel in suspension. Okay has anybody looked in a new Edelbrock V8 aluminum intake lately? Amazingly smooth. All the way from carb flange to head flange. So what I'm doing should give me something. Remains to be seen whether its good or bad. If its bad, I'll just put the stockers back on and no harm done. Any advice either way will be appreciated. Chris

Got them from a random site that lists all kinds of interesting things. Chris