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About dkd021

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    Registered User


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    Atlanta, GA

My Cars

  • About my Cars
    2/1972 240Z Silver/Red HLS30-66434
    7/1970 240Z Orange/Black HLS30-06969
    5/1972 240Z Red/Black Parts Car

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  1. I bought my brake lines from classictube.com for about $225. They weren't perfect, but once I think back, they were acceptable for what they were. If your lines are in the condition that I perceive from your remarks, you'd probably be better off replacing them. I've done it & for me, it was not as hard as it was frustrating even though I had the motor, transmission, & driveshaft out. So, here's my advice based only on "my" experience. I'd get some penetrating spray on the bolts that hold the brackets to the body & let it sit. I don't remember if they're 7 or 8mm heads, but I'd lube them up well because they're small in girth & will twist on you if you're not careful. Once those are removed, be VERY careful removing the rubber insulators. Take your time & do your best not to tear them because they're probably going to be dry & brittle. Once I got mine out, I soaked them in some engine stop leak for a couple of days & they came out pliable for reuse. Tag everything. Take pictures of everything. It gets confusing when you're not sure. Once I had my parts car in the driveway as a reference, THAT'S when everything "fell into place" for me. So document everything. Heck, use a video camera too. Since my motor, transmission, driveshaft were out, I loosened the rear swaybar bolts from the rear diff. This gave me a little more play to get the sharply bent lines back to the tank. We tried starting from the front, but eventually found it best (in my case) to start from the back. We used popsicle sticks to twist the lines & get them to fit into their bracket insulator slot. They'll tend to get bound, so be patient, & install the top line first then working your way down. If you're going to try it with the everything still in the car, you're a braver man than I am. I'm not sure I could've done it that way.
  2. I was flying with my uncle in a Storch out over the desert between Tucson & Phoenix about a year & a half ago. Those planes can maintain altitude while flying extremely slow & low to the ground. Out in the middle of the desert was a '68 (I think) white Mustang just sitting alone, on state owned land, w/o a road in sight. It was a very similar scene to the black & white B210 pictured above. We flew around it a little but couldn't land to get a look at it. You wouldn't believe how many cars are out there, doing nothing but sitting.
  3. No solution that I know of, they'll probably have to be replated. This is what I've done...I'd soak them in a degreaser solution for a couple of weeks. Just get some concentrated degreaser & put them in a bucket w/ a mixture of water. Every couple of days, vigorously shake the bucket (with a lid of course) & change the degreaser water when you're done. After a couple of times you'll notice the water becoming less & less black. Eventually they'll be clean for the most part. Then find a plater in your area. Take them in a bucket to your plater & tell them the type of coating you want. They'll come back w/ some rust pits & maybe a little grime on a few, but for the most part, they'll come back good as new. You can probably get one color done for less than $100.
  4. I'm just glad that I don't have to worry about paying my mortgage or putting gas in my car anymore. Other than that, nothing historic in my opinion because skin color is truly irrelevant in my opinion. Too bad not everyone in society shares my view.
  5. Hey Poindexter, is that radiator shroud fiberglass?
  6. I bought the brake lines from Classic Tube. They were "ok" in my opinion. They'll fit but they're a major pain to get back in. Not the CT lines, but the fuel/brake lines in general. I never want to go through that again. It is by far, the most frustrating thing I've done during my restoration. My recommendation, if you're going to remove them anyway, would be to media blast them & then find a local cad plater that will replate your lines, insulator brackets, & screws. To get all of my lines & parts plated was MUCH cheaper than buying new lines.
  7. Yeah, I'm not sure if I can tell the difference either. However, I went ahead & bought the 15x7 Konigs from MSA. They said that they only had the 16" wheels in the new style while I prefer the old style. Maybe I'll be happy with them. I should've bought the Panasports but for double the price I just didn't want to swing it.
  8. I will apologize in advance, as I know these type of posts tend to be nauseating. I have scrolled through all 13 pages of the members gallery & I am looking for a particular car because I have specific wheel & suspension questions. It is a photo that I found & saved some time ago. Now, I can't find the user's photo gallery. Hopefully he or she still comes to this forum. I would like to know if this car has been lowered an inch by the suspension & what size wheels are the Panasports. Also, if possible, which size tires. This is the stance & look that I want for my own silver 240Z, & I thought I'd try to find out for sure that these are 16" wheels before I just take a chance & buy them from MSA.
  9. Does anyone know where I can purchase these items new? I looked in the MSA catalog & may have missed it, but didn't see them. I checked out Banzai's website & didn't find it there either.
  10. dkd021


    I had a lot of the parts cad plated at the same time I had my fuel/brake lines redone. Thanks
  11. dkd021

    paint and body

    Not trying to be a jerk, but I think this is a telling sentence. I would stick with red. A good paint job, inside & out is expensive. A cheap one may cost less, but it sounds like you're talking about a potential refresh of the whole car. If you're worried about the cost of the paint job now, in the beginning, Murphy's Law is going to come out & visit you during the refurb. This is just my opinion, but I feel that if you're worried about what the paint job will cost now, you're fighting a steep uphill battle.
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