Ben

Something that's NOT recommended (but can be a good laugh), which only works on engines that don't have an idle cutoff solenoid; While coasting down a hill in gear, turn the ignition off. This allows the exhaust to cool quite rapidly, a few pumps of the throttle (ie accelerator pump shots) & turning the ignition back on can blow the exhaust system clean off the car. I've seen these 'key-bangers' performed with great skill on the 12A rotary engine, resulting in a huge ball of flame exiting the exhaust (straight-thru mufflers help). As a rule, poor tuning, bad engine condition & low owner care-factor are required to perform this 'stunts'. Alfadog, you car has no throttle damper (which prevents the throttle snapping closed - the 260Z's had these in Aus.) and no cutoff solenoid. You can expect a little popping from the exhaust (not much) and not be concerned. An EFI car with the TPS mal-adjusted will exhibit the same symptoms, as the fuel-shutoff is not happening on closed throttle. Years ago, I had a problem where my Haltech EFI system was causing the car to stall after closed-throttle coasting. It turns out that the software that I had for it had the decel cutoff high-rpm value, but no low-rpm value. Therefore, the car would not inject fuel once the throttle was closed, unless it was opened again. This also meant that the car would stall when free-revving. Damn that was a frustrating problem....

I know one other George, & he's from Greece. I guess I was stereotyping! LOL

Just to clear up my vote.... I voted that you were an import George! I'm thinking of somewhere around the Mediterranean

That first vote is mine George! LOL

It MUST have been retro-fitted with an auto - there's no clutch MC in the engine bay.... Damn, there aren't enuf manual 240's in Aust as it is. I paid $3k for my 2nd '73 240Z in late '97 and it had a pretty rusty body (for SA standards) but a tip-top L28 with the original SU's fitted. This e-bay car is only worth $3500 'cause market values have risen in the last few years. Having said that, it's a typical example of the cars that are in the 2nd-hand market these days - tired & desperately needing attention.

Tha poor thing has had a hard life.... A candidate for a full restoration, and un-butchering.

Not for 100% sure, but the back of it has been butchered a bit Perhaps just do the 'under-floor' section of the rail (the basic U channel). That's easy to get to & can be done neatly.

Fixable but ugly. Replace both rails & floors - they've been badly butchered. The rust around the battery tray is no big deal at all, but the creases on the drivers side inner guard are not very pretty.

Speak with your bodyshop & see what they say about doing the whole lot in one hit. BTW - I've seen plenty of people deal with plenty worse on other cars (imported Mustangs, etc). Once you get this sorted, you will never have floor/rail rust problems again.

If you can get the alternater mount off the engine, and a replacement is easy to get. Ditch the one you have (complete with broken bolt) & put another one on!

Don't stress mate, you'll get it sorted. Keep us posted with progress, you've been given some pretty good advice so far! The crappy thing is that 90% of Zed's in Aus have had the rough-end dealt to them & it takes a the right owner to make things right. My car had big holes in the floor & both rails had rusted out (under the floor). We had new rails bent-up at a sheetmetal workshop & extended them all the way to the back of the floor (as per 260Z). I also discovered that someone had welded a new rear-quarter on the car & not joined it at the lead-wiping. The other rear-quarter was very rippled too!!! I have had the body fully restored & it's all good now:classic:

Where are you located?

I've ordered from MSA a number of times (including purchasing a front & rear spoiler). They have been very helpful. Pity they aren't open on Thanksgiving when I called in to have a look when I was in the neighbourhood.....

The Festiva was metallic green The Valiant was yellow The 260Z 2+2 was maroon

Yeah, Sleek (the elite) upgraded the Festiva to a 260Z 2+2 in the insurance scam episode (the same one where they trashed Pauly's Valiant & then rebuilt it - to look identical as it was originally)......

pfffft, I'm much more accurate in real life..... ROFL

about:blank Then I open a dozen windows & go to far too many sites.....

It makes you wonder doesn't it? If true, it would be a very significant event. If not - WTF is going on?

You can, but the design of the engine is what determined the appropriate CR's that the factory used. I have done just that - stock L28E, custom exhaust, FMIC, aftermarket ECU, limited to 6-7psi. But if you get the factory L28ET, with it's lower CR & better head design. You will be able to screw in around 1-bar with a decent management system & produce much more power.

The particular FJ20ET in that auction is from an early DR30 RS Turbo Skyline (like mine!). It is the non-intercooled version (ie pre 1984). The engine was also used in the S12 Silvia in atmo & turbo form (the inlet manifold had shorter runners in the S12). It was first used in the S11 Silvia as a 2.4L atmo, twin-carb'd rally engine (the 240RS). The FJ24 stroker kits are almost non-existant. I am currently rebuilding my FJ20, due to a head gasket failure (well, a fitting failure by the factory). It's done about 120,000km and everything is in A1 condition. They are a very rev-happy engine with plenty of power in stock form. Mine regularly saw 7000+rpm - I just have to remember that there's no factory limiter & the redline is 7500.... (I'm usually pretty conservative in my 'revving' of engines - I keep my L28ET under 5500, but the FJ just produces more grunt the higher you go!) My dad has an atmo one in his 510, and that is very nice too (funnily enough, his headgasket failed in the same way mine has....)

Hi George, With a VIN of 101,000+ and the picture of your car as your avatar, there is no way that your car is a '72. If your car has no hatch vents, no hand throttle, proper reclining mechanisms on the seats & bumper-mounted indicators, it's a '73.

briefly (it's 2am....) I'll dig up the Formula Pac. info & pass it on. I'll also try & get a copy of the 'Group G' stuff (that's been pending for a while, but I'm lazy) I expect you are right about the 432, as the car in the article is at standard height (not higher) & there is no mention of the perspex windows or other 'SB' specific features. Still - lucky bastard.... I have made a point of getting homologation papers for every car I own. After all, they only cost $70 from my state FIA-sanctioned motorsport body (CAMS). I drool at the brakes & suspension parts that were used on some of the cars - friggin huge!

Thanks for correcting my size-mismatch Alan! You are lucky to have an 'original' Sport Option Catalogue, I have a copy of a copy of a copy! Likewise with the Datsun Cherry, B210 & Formula Pacific catalogues. For anyone who wants more info on some of these performance parts - get a copy of the FIA Homologation papers for the HS30 - it has quite a lot of NLA good stuff in it! I do know someone who has an original 'Group G' catalogue for the twin-cam L16 & L20B's (similar to the Formula Pac. but only engine parts). I have a 'Motor' Magazine from 1974 which has an article about an Australian ex-pat who lives in Japan and his heavily modified Z432-R (big cams, racing valves & springs, triple 44's, twice-pipes etc). It tended to overheat in traffic....:classic: But was great fun at 'illegal speeds'.

Hi Z_boi, If you have next-to-no power at any rpm's then you have issues. Task #1 get a manual, & get familliar with the diagnostic proceedures for both the engine & EFI system. Based on that you will find out that for something like lack of power the following could be the cause (taken from Engine-Fuel section of the L24E FSM): Improper ignition system Malfunctioning throttle valve Malfunctioning air flow meter Clogged air cleaner filter (now _that's_ easy to check) Improper fuel line Improper fuel pressure Problems in the following circuits: * Ignition coil trigger input circuit * Control unit power input circuit * Injection circuit * Air flow meter potentiometer * Throttle valve switch, idle contact & full throttle contact * Air temperature sensor * Water temperature sensor * Air regulator & fuel pump circuit I know that's pretty much everything, but fixing these problems is a process of elimination. The L-jet system is relatively simple & a proper diagnostic process _will_ solve the problem. Keep us posted & get ready to enjoy heaps more power from your car!

Triple Mikuni's were a Motorsports/option part. So yes, you could buy them from a dealer, but they weren't fitted to the L20 or L24 engines from the factory. I still think Nissan Motorsports USA offers the 44PHH & 50PHH Mikuni kits. However the S20 2.0L only came with Triple 44PHH's.... (fitted to Z432 & Z432-R Japanese Fairladys only)