Im trying to get my brake lights to work. Hazards, turns, parking lights all work, but I cant get the brakes to work. I replaced the brake switch already and I have continuity from both from the fusebox to the switch and from the fusebox all the way back to the lights. My guess is that the grounds for those lights are probably bad.

Would someone be able to tell me where the ground cluster for them is? Im assuming there is one in the back somewhere, but I didnt want to cut up the sheathing if I didnt have to

I think that if you remove the inside plastic panel you'll see where the wires go. The whole thing, not just the access holes for the bulb sockets.

Looks like there's a junction to a single wire then to the ground point. Has to be close.

Edited August 11Aug 11 by Zed Head

Since you say your hazards work, I suggest you focus on the connector between the dash harness and body harness. First verify you have voltage to ground on both sides of the brake switch with the pedal depressed. If so, keep moving down the line. Connector C-2 is most likely good in that case since the wires on both sides of the brake switch go through it. If the connector I circled is together, take it apart and measure voltage to ground on the black/yellow wire on the dash harness side with the pedal depressed. If it's good, put the connector back together and see if you can get your meter probe on the back side of the body harness connector at the black/yellow wire.

If you still don't have brake lights when you have voltage at the connector, move down to the connectors at the tail lights and repeat the process.

23 hours ago, nowak1981 said:

Im trying to get my brake lights to work. Hazards, turns, parking lights all work, but I cant get the brakes to work.

My guess is that the grounds for those lights are probably bad.

To simply a little on what SteveJ said... The ground is fine.

There is only one ground that connects to the rear light assemblies. If your hazards and parking lights work, that ground is making connection. You need to focus on the 12V side, not the ground side.

Got it fixed, with your advise I started at the fuse block and traced the wire again and confirmed 12v. Turns out it was a combination of several things. Most notable was that the contacts werent making reliable contact with the fuse. I was also breaking fuses pulling them out without realizing it. The end caps were getting twisted just enough to break the fuse.

I love it when people return and close up a thread.