gundee

I was talking to a guy who works on cars for a living. He says all the vehicles now come with an inertia fuel cut off safety switch. I have a Ford Tarus. I think I will check if mine has one, what it costs.

Rick On my 72 there is an inline fuseholder for the elec. fuel pump behind the fuse box. It requires a 20amp fuse. Your is probably the same. You just may need the fuse to power up existing pump wires. Mine also runs without a safety cutoff. Something I have been meaning to get to. Seems every Spring when I get it out of storage I keep forgetting.

That is a real good point about the modern radial tires. With that flat tread I don't imagine they like much camber like we used to run.

Years ago before the coilovers were widely available, most of us that autocrossed our Z cars cut our springs. Just take it easy and don't cut too much and bottom out the shock. Some of the guys used front lower control arms from I believe a 710 sedan. They were longer and gave more neg. camber. They would press out the 710 bushings and press in the 240Z bushings and install. Worked good. There still may be some of old Z's running around with control arms from other models.

Tom; The ign fuse recieves power when the key switch is in the run position. Both with and without the motor running. Try this next. Unplug the volt regulator, unplug the oil press sw. on the engine, unplug the temp sensor on the head,unplug the fuel sender wire at the tank, the hazard sw.,and finally the turn signal flasher. Next put in a new 20amp fuse. Then turn the key to run position. Do not start car. See if the fuse blows. Those are the items the fuse feeds so it would help to see what happens.

Tom Since the starter is not on that fuse circuit, I do not know how changing the starter will help that fuse problem.

Tom The fuse you are having a problem with is powered from the ign. switch. The fuse feeds the following items. 1. Volt regulator 2. Hazard sw. 3. Choke sw. and light 4. Oil pressure sw. 5. Fuel tank sending unit 6. Water temp. sender If you have an automatic trans., it also serves kickdown sw. and solenoid. Start looking at those itms.

One thing I did and have seen a few others. You can buy the group24 battery with the + and - opposite of the origional. That way the + terminal isn't 1/2" from your fender just waiting for the opportunity for a giant bang!

Mark, This has happened to me before. I had to do the rather unpleasent siphon routine to remedy. Disconnect hose between fuel filter and fuel pump. Siphon until fuel fills the filter if it is not already. Put hose back on pump and tighten. Disconnect fuel hose somewhere between fuel pump and carbs. Siphon again pulling fuel from filter into the pump housing. Put hose back on and tighten. Go in car and start! Hope that is all it is.

I finally got out to where I keep my car. The clearance at the front crossmember is 5-5/8". I don't know what the rocker measurement is. I never had any driveway problems. I could maybe even go a little lower if I wanted. If I had a low front spoiler though I would keep it where it is. Hope that helps.

Pancho's Z is an ex SCCA C production car he is putting on the street. I will measure mine.

You can also make pins from a wire coat hanger. The heavy guage type not those flimsy white ones.

Try here too. http://piercemanifolds.com/linkage.htm

I had the exact same condition. I did all the above suggestions and still ran hot on highway only. I finally pulled radiator and took to rad. shop. He called me back and said it was so plugged it was beyond being cleaned. They recored it (tripple) and temp. has been perfect ever since. That happened when mine was 26 yrs old, same as yours.

Believe it of not the bolts are 7/16-20. I just found out last year changing my harness.

The ad says car has leather seats. Is that what they put on the restored Z's?