gundee

They are talking about a 280Z.

I had my wipers arms off recently. When I went to put them back on the same way I noticed they were marked L&R. I found out I had them on backwards for years. Doh! :surprised

I would say it is just as probable if not more probable the lower ball joint has some wear. They probably are the origional ball joints. My 72 still has the origionals and the LF has a small amount of play, the RF is still perfect.

The brake light circuit and the hazard circuit use the same fuse. If the hazards work then that fuse is good. You did not say how you tested the brake switch. You used an ohm meter I assume? The other way to test it is to pull both wires off brake switch and take a short piece of wire and jumper those two wires together. If the brake lights go on then you have a bad brake sw.

It appears to me the car has been lowered. Read not factory reconditioned. IMO.

After reading that restoration checklist. :stupid: Was whoever thought up that program drunk? What made them think that you could sell a 240Z restored to that checklist for less than $80 thousand? And that is just to maybe break even. Cost of parts + cost of car + Labor (California shop labor rates for that matter!) = Does not add up!! Doh. For example: 750 hours x $100/hr (CA shop rate) = $75,000 just in Labor! I don't get it.

Wires LW, LY, L, B all go back to the wiper switch. No relays involved. You would have to make a switching device to simulate the wiper sw. As that is not practicle the best is to find or borrow another switch to hook the wires to and do your test.

Flow valve hook up.

Hey Carl. I was reading a major earthquake is expected in California anytime. That should weed out some people for you.

The long lost 1st Cobra Daytona Coup was found in California sitting in a garage for over 30 years. After the court battles were over as to ownership the car was eventually sold for reported $3 million as is. And you think your Z is rough.

My scanner software does all of that photo editing. I thought it was just a standard deal with all of them.

Decided it was time to restore the finish of my badly weathered license light cover. After removing the cover you will notice the color is in the plastic casting itself. I first wet sanded with 1000 grit then wet sanded with 1500 grit. I finished off with 3M rubbing compound p/n 03900. It comes in a 8oz. bottle. It now looks like new! Picture attached but camera is a cheap one so could be better.