LanceM

Ah a perfect time for this, thanks Carl "I know you think you understand what you thought I said, but I'm not sure you realize that what you heard is not what I said!" In this case read not said The rattle can paint I ment was weld through primer, not the stuff you get at auto zone, you can't weld or at least shouldn't weld through POR or any paint for that matter. It contaminates the weld, weld through primer is meant to be welded through and has a high zinc content to both protect the metal at the weld point and conduct electricty to allow you to weld. No certified panel repair man would weld a panel on without using weld through primer, not unless he wants the job to come back because of rust through from the back side, insurance repairs, at least around here typically require it. Besides if the panel is fully coated with POR how are you going to weld it, no metal is showing? If you start your weld on the frame member which isn't coated and drag the puddle on to the floorboard you are hoping the heat will burn off the POR as you drag the puddle, loading the weld with POR slag and making a mess of the whole works weld wise, that's if you don't just burn through because you are going so slow trying to clean the metal with the weld heat. Again just my $.02, spray the weld area with weld through primer, then when done welding POR.

Just my $.02, clean metal welds best so I would POR after the job is done but I would coat all of the welding areas with a weld through primer (high zinc content) to help prevent rust starting at the weld points. This is a standard requirement for panel replacement and if isn't done more than likely rust through from the backside out. BTW, tests have shown no difference in results between spray on or brush on weld through primer so go with the rattle can as it is easier and quicker to use.

73 did not have a 5 speed available in the US so it has already been swapped with a later model, any of the later 5 speeds from the 280Z-280ZX will bolt in. There may or may not be issues with shifter hole location on a 71 but it isn't a big problem from what I have read.

I did the change on my 73 and had no problems with the 73 rod.

Though it is a lot of work there really isn't much else to do but put it back together and see. I would check what Carl mentioned about the timing cover, and I would check to see that the head is flat, use a new head gasket, and retorque after a heat cycle.

If the system has always had antifreeze in it should be OK, drain it down a bit and look in the radiator, if the tubes look clear you are probably ok, if there is a lot of gunk and build up then maybe not. Depending upon how old the hoses are they may be ok, if they are old or of unknown age they probably should be changed, better to do it now than on the side of the road in the dark!

It has been my recent experiance that the "new" condencer you are buying is really an old one, sitting on the shelf for maybe years. Time in itself is an enemy to them. With most cars having switched to pointless ignition many years ago there just isn't a serious turn around of shelf stock and so the part you are buying today may be 10 or more years old. I went through 3 in 2 days last year, one bad out of the box, before I tossed the dizzy and went pointless. You may want to try a different source, maybe someone has something newer on the shelf.

Hit 78 yesterday, 68 today, 62 tomorrow, I think it's comming back!

No one finger Lance, can you see it or should I "turn it up?"

I can't help with getting the window down/motor out, but something I've found in all of the window motors I've had to work on is that they have small circut breakers in them, really just a bimetal strip that opens when the motor is stalled such as in the full up or full down position, to keep from burning the motor up. These tend to get tired after thousands of cycles and just stay open, hence no power to the motor. Being cheap, I've found that you can take it apart and solder these breakers closed alowing years of service, just pay attention when opening/closeing the window and get your finger off the button when it reaches the end travel point. I fixed the drivers window in my Jimmy this way 5 years ago and it still runs fine and gets used daily.

Sensor safe RTV works well, be sure it is sensor safe as most that are not put out corrousive fumes during the cure.

The fittings are probably more the limiting factor than what the body of the filter is made of. All of the glass ones that I've seen are the type with hose barb ends, which typically means low pressure application, all of my vehicals with EFI use the metal canister type with inverted flare fittings for the higher pressure. If your Z uses the type with screw in fittings, much like a brake line, then no you probably can't use a glass type unless it has matching fittings. The old fashion type that fits inline using hose and clamps would probably leak or blow off if it clogged, not enough friction between the clamp,hose, and metal fuel line.

You're right on the UV, I should have been more clear, often you see them and they are dull from dust abrasion and what not, these you can buff out to look like new.

Son time to see if things are worn you will have to pull the pin that drives the clutch MC then I think that you can get the pedal out, been a while since I fit myself down in there, it is also a lot easier with the seat out of the car.

You should be able to find Brasso at any hardware store, it is a brass cleaner. I believe they also make an aluminum cleaner also though I'm not sure of it's name. In anycase remember that the lense is plastic, any abrasive will score it even if it's just a little bit and will remove the shine. At that point a buffer and some good final polishing compound like is used to finish paint will make them look like new. That also works well on cars that have plastic headlights that have gotten dull and sort of cloudy looking.

I'm right behind you, 50 and counting BTW, teflon tape is out for hydralics or much of anything besides water anymore because of possiblilty of tape plugging systems, teflon paste is the "in" thing now and in some ways I like it much better. It is messy compaired to tape but I always hated when you got a roll of tape that decided it wanted to be strings instead of tape!

Sometimes being old has it's advantages

I'm afraid that it got put in the "I'll look at this later" catagory as body work and paint are in process.

I believe that if you look you will see that it is an inverted flare fitting, not a tapered pipe thread, no washers or sealant should be used, just tighten. Thread length is not important as long as it is "long enough."

The best thing to use to get overspray off is a clay bar. Don't know who makes it but NAPA auto parts disributes one under part number 7260 in the MS line. It is a kit with a lubricant. The bars are 7261 (fine)and 7262 for med. This will take off the overspray without damage to the lense.

I don't have an answer for you but mine too came with cloth center sections that were a black/white/orange weave that matched the car color (orange). Very comfortable in the summer, but now need replaceing. It must have been a dealer add on, for as you say the stitching and installation was factory in appearance. Any idea what dealer sold your car? If I remember right mine was from a dealer in Apple Valley, CA.

Ha, depending upon the poster here I'm not surprised at all any more

Please don't tempt me... you are only 2 hours away!!!

Curious minds want to know, how did you get the old pads out without taking off the caliper??? I second the large C clamp method.

Since the Z is a unibody glue won't work in any stress areas, which is most of a Z. In your example, fiberglass body steel (tube?) frame the fiberglass imparts almost no strength to the system, it would run just fine with just the frame. A lot of newer cars are using 3M epoxys for panels but are still welding in stressed areas. It has it's place just not in the Z world I'm afraid.... except for patching a fender or doorskins!