zspert
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Everything posted by zspert
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Hoover, Your left motor mount bracket should be engine blue while your right bracket should be satin black.
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Banzai Motorworks has reproduced both
The first 280s and the last 260s were both built simultaneously during the last 3 months of 1974. This makes a 12/74 260 2+2 automatic the rarest, and one might argue the least desirable, of the first generation, 1970-1978, Z cars!
Hi Joseph, Like you Banzai Motorworks catalogs fuse link info which we have gathered from one owner, original, unmodified, low mileage 280s which come through the shop with a bit of regularity. Therefore, I can say with confidence that the thick red links, surely manufactured by Yazaki, are original. Also, I've been buying those links from my local Nissan dealer for more than 30 years. Original colors are Red, Green and Black. I feel comfortable with the super-sessions, such as thick Red to thin Brown, through the years, never had a problem.
Banzai Motorworks, www.zzxdatsun.com, has reproduced the luggage stoppers to a high standard. Every stock 240 gold medallion car for the past several years has one.
I have used plastic media exclusively for many years. It is as light as a feather so can be easily removed from nooks and crannies using compressed air. Soda, when the residue isn't completely removed, can cause issues and is denser than plastic making the bits a problem to remove from the recesses. Sand, nothing but problems, don't go there.
I undercoated very many 240s, 510s, 1200s and trucks during my dealer days. Paid .3 hrs labor per car.
I don't understand why you want to go to all the trouble when there is a source for very nice correct reproduction braided hoses at JDM. Also, given the nature of the Z car hobby, tiny almost orphan, companies that stick their necks out like JDM and Banzai deserve the support of the hobby. Important to remember, Nissan didn't discontinue parts out of meanness. They did and do it because nobody buys them. Look what happened so very recently to factory wiper blades. Just one man's opinion.
There are two techniques used for industrial plating, rack plating and barrel plating. Barrel plating is used for small parts. The parts are dumped through the hatch of a plastic barrel, the hatch is shut and the barrel is sent down the plating line. Think nuts, bolts, washers, windshield washer nozzles, hood latch parts etc. Rack plating is as the name implies, the parts are secured to a rack by fine wire or hooks. Rack plating is used for parts like the plate between the engine and transmission, long brake, clutch and fuel lines (more about these long lines later) water pump pulley, etc. Be careful, the plater may want to put some of the larger parts in the barrel so have your preferences decided ahead of time. Sometimes rack plating may leave a dark spot where the wire or hook touches the part. The more conscientious platers will work with you to minimize or eliminate the chance of the dark spot, plan ahead. Here's how I deal with the long lines. I first use Brakleen to remove any oil or grease. Then I use single O steel wool to remove any rust, paint, etc followed by the same texture steel wool to polish the lines. I have yet to find a plater with tanks large enough to plate these long lines so I carefully bend them around a 55 gallon drum making the overall length small enough for the plating tanks. Because I want to be very selective about reusing replated 50 year old lines through which flow critical fluids under pressure I always take another step. I bend and flare a complete set of new brake, clutch and fuel lines which I have plated at the same time as the original lines. I buy a length of line from my NAPA store in each of the sizes required and NAPA fittings which happen to come with the correct 10mm flats and are already plated in yellow zinc. Yes, a lot of work but when all the lines have been replated I can choose the best, and safest, of the litter. Damn, he sure goes through a lot of work but hey, I've been doing this long enough that making a new set isn't a big deal and I know I can have confidence in the finished product. Prep work for everything else - I start with brakleen - a product that doesn't leave a residue - then glass bead blasting to remove paint, rust, etc followed by many hours of tumbling in a rock tumbler filled with my small parts and crushed corn cobs. The end product will have a lightly polished finish. An excellent start to the zinc plating process. Yes, Jfa.series1, your use of wire to keep the small stuff together is an excellent idea, a must for SU carb parts. For the past 3 loads I've been using a shop just south of Philadelphia. Every time I drop off a load they ask me about the environment the parts will live in. I'm impressed by that as I had NEVER been asked that before. However, I've gotten good reports about Sav-On from more than one source. If I ever have issues with the Phila folks I'll give Sav-In a go. The Royal Pain In The arse work I've outlined is what separates a quality restoration one can be proud of from everything else. Good Hunting (plating)!
Yes, industrial platers!!! Have dealt with this breed for more than 35 years and no matter who you're dealing with the story never changes. First it's important to understand the difference between industrial platers and chrome platers. I've never found a shop that does both. They , chrome platers, at least those with any kind of good reputation, know that they must produce a first class product without excuses. I have never had to reject a chrome job. You're right, I've paid the price one has to pay for peace of mind but consider it the price of admission. On the other hand industrial platers will almost always lose a few of your smaller parts/fasteners, do a less, sometimes a lot less, than concourse job on 10-15% of your parts and then shrug their shoulders while sticking their hand out for payment. No, this is not just one shop, THEY ALL DO THIS! I've run out of time this evening but I'll try to get back tomorrow with what you can, no must, do to reduce your chance of heart break. Cheers
You have a partially or mostly completely plugged pick up tube filter in your fuel tank. See my comments about this condition elsewhere on this site.
Very soon Banzai Motorworks will be offering 280 EFI charts in large 18 x 24 format. They will be laminated and make excellent Man Cave decorations. Stay tuned to their site at www.zzxdatsun.com. In the meantime they offer the same size laminated 240 wiring schematics for $13.50 plus shipping
Incorrect for 77/78 280. Beware of Z Car Depot's indicated applications as they are often wrong.
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