Dreco

So If I get 45's I guess the next thing I need to do is figure out which 45DCOE I need, looks like there are different kinds, depending on what jetting size your need.

they used an L28 F54 block. with an N42 head

I will tell you that in my 3.0L rebello used a stroker crank with my L24 rods. I asked about redline of the motor, he said I could take it up 8000, but there isn't any more power after 7000.

If I get 45's, which ones to I look for ?? I saw a code of 45DCOE, but it also ended in 13,14,15. what does the last number mean??

well, when I talked with my engine builder, the discussion was wether to get 45's or 48's!!:classic: From my understanding, the head porting that was done to mine was pretty extensive. Cost me about 1100 dollars. If I go with this set up, I'm also assuming I'll have to install a better fuel pump. I guess an inline electric feul pump would sufice, or should I just get rid of the mechanical on for a high flow electric one.

well, I finally got a hold of my engine builder. It's been suggested that I use 45's with my set up. I was told 40's would be too small. so now I'm going shopping.

you say the 40DCOE?? what about the 45's or 50's

I found out why I was slow. Bad tuning. My valves were out of adjustment. I adjusted them, the car felt a lot faster. I decided to have the car dyno'd, just to see were I was at. Seems it was more than just valves. With my carbs running way too rich and a problem was found in my distributer, I still pulled 191 hp with 176 torque at the wheels. I have since corrected my problems and I see 13's in the cars future. I haven't had it dyno'd again, but should be around 220 at the wheels according to the tech.

Hello, right now I'm running bored SU's (50mm) on a Rebello built 3.0L stroker motor. It's been suggested that I get the tripple carb set up, and I'm leaning towards getting it. Some say I should get Weber's because parts are more obtainable. But I thought I would get some input from the club before I make my purchase. my questions: 1. how much horsepower could I gain?? 2. Are there any cons running tripples rather than SU's?? 3. Which model of carb and intake should I get? (I'm willing to give up driveability for performance) 4. Where is a good place to purchase from? I'll need the whole set up, carbs, linkage, manifold.

It was very early in the morning, and I was in a hurry. But seriously, it whines accelerating and decelerating. I have heard that these diff's are louder. I also have poly bushings on my mustache bar. I don't mind it being loud, just don't want premature failure. Could it possibly be U-joints?? I know it's tough without actually hearing it, I just know my old open end diff was a lot quieter.

I honestly didn't even think about that when I typed thatROFL

would play in bearings result in a louder rear end?? and would play in bearings lead to premature failure. just to make it clear, I'm refering to the 2 side flanges that insert into the R200. Is there any difference between the ones from a early model R200(1976) and a late R200(1981). I wondered if something was wrong with the input shafts of the flanges. the play is up and down. what would cause that type of play?? It seems to be worse on the passenger side than the driver side.

should there be any play at the input shaft (R200). When I pull on the half shaft, It will move back and forth a little. It's not the Ujoints.

SORRY, I'll repost.

I recently installed a 3.7 LSD(form a 300ZX) into my 240Z. It was supposedly rebuilt. after about 30 mph, I hear can hear it whine. I put in the input shafts from an 78 R200. They fit in and the C-clips locked them in place. I crawled underneath the car and checked the halfshalfts. I noticed a little play where the input shalf goes into the rear end. the play was back and forth, not in and out of the hole. could it be just the bearings???

well, I'm taking my car to the Dyno next week to see what I have at the wheels. I don't think I was getting all that my engine had. Funny, on my slowest run of 15.3, my reaction time was .666. After they I find out how much power I have at the wheels, I have a better bench mark for where I should be.

hhhmmm post at 8 this morning and at end of the day..... no replies. can't a Z nut get a little love:love:

I finally got around to taking my Z to the drag strip. I'm running a 3.0L stroker motor with bored out SU carbs. 3.7 LSD, with 1983 280zx 5speed tranny, street tires, and my best time was a 15.103 with a .807 reaction time. Is this a good time for this type of set up??? I did notice that my car would hesitate a little around 5500 rpms, kind of went on and off up to 7000. I crossed the finish line in 3rd gear, at around 5900 rpms at 94 mph. I'm guessing my gear ratio is a little tall for drag racing, or I could probably get solid 14's.

I just put in an LSD Rear End from a 1988 300ZX turbo into my 240Z. (supposedly rebuilt) It seems fine, there isn't any play, but it is louder than my last R200. It has a whining sound to it. any thoughts?? My Ujoints are in good condition. It seems to get quieter as it warms up.

I'm in the 60,000-80,000 group (with my wifes income), but we live in California's Napa Valley. After the essentials, aint much left. But hey, according to a certain political affiliation I'm rich...right???

Their customer service sucks. I tried to get 1 little thing from them (rear end cover gasket), they shipped to the wrong address(an old address I used to have, I had since changed). I had to track it, they expected me to get Fed Ex to re-route the package, then never even offered to refund my shipping charges. The shipping error excuse was "the shipping address was changed in the computer, but for some reason the shipping label printed the old shipping address" I could have thought up a better one than that. Anyone had problems like this with Motorsport Auto??? Or am I over reacting???

I've heard a 3.0L stroker with a 3 inch exhaust, and I thought it sounded better than my 2.5 inch system.

Hello all, just got my 300ZX lsd R200. I know I need to swap a few things from my stock R200, but was wondering, before I dive into it, how easy is it to change the input flanges from the "cv" type to the "u-joint" type? Is there a clip that holds them in, or do they just pop out??? I have heard the swapping the flange that bolts to your drive shaft yoke is a little more difficult. Is this something that needs to be done at a shop?

I have an extra set of SU"s with grose jets. If your interested, PM me.

what is the stock weight of a 280Z 2+2 flywheel??? I was told to use the 2+2 because of it had more surface area ( less slipping), and I couldnt afford the high performance clutch parts, along with an light flywheel. Now that I do have the funds, I would like to upgrade. What kind of difference does an 11 lb. flywheel make in exceleration???