26th-Z

A little more key history information. http://www.gordon-glasgow.org/Images/62-2.gif The Voss type steering lock and key is most common on the very early Zs and comes from the roadster. I have seen early Zs equipped with the Waso type, but very few. Both my cars are Voss equipped.

deadflo, I nailed those graphics off the internet years ago from surfing various Datsun history sites. The "Datson" license tag looking logo with the round sun background is circa 1930's - file name says 1931. The vertical "DAT" logo has a 1916 file name. Flip over to my gallery and I have a sub gallery started with a few of the old cars. Check out the website www.ratdat.com

Long pig-tail fuse box wiring cover! Wanna sell it?

Here are some early DAT and Datson logos. My understanding is that Datson changed to Datsun in the mid '30s. That's the image of Her Majesty, garage queen and guardian of all cars DAT, holding the flag of the rising sun.

There is a great wealth of information about keys on this site. Do a search. There are two styles of keys for the series one chassis (1969 - 1971). Long and short. There are two styles of door and deck keys also. Here are some pictures.

I bought a rusted car on purpose!

From what I can see, you have the earlier manifold.

She's an umbrella girl. Of course her legs would fit in the car! Zs are famous for leg room! Oh my goodness.

Arne, Generally speaking, I have found that the parts of the later S30s are quite different from the parts of the earlier S30s. Not to say they won't work, but I just seem to find there are subtle differences that make swapping things out one-for-one difficult. Pedal cluster 48318-E4601 goes through several part # changes begining what looks like in 7/72. There is a different # for the 2+2 and automatic. Looks to me like you have N3300 for the cars around '72 - '75 and N4700 starting 8/76.

I don't think Black Book holds the same definition or standard for "excellent condition" as we do. As we have seen several early cars in excellent condition sell well above the $15,000 range in recent months, excellent condition might mean it simply runs and looks nice. The 280Z with less than 50,000 miles and original paint should have a higher value as well. Because the Black Book represents the interests of a loan institution, one might suspect what it is worth in terms of loan value or perhaps replacement value. Of course, true value is what someone is willing to pay at a specific time.

I have Hagerty on both the cars even though they are apart and in storage. The article describes how a collector entry level British sports car is reaching $20,000 and people are starting to look at the early Japanese cars as good deals and it goes on to boast about how reliable the Datsuns are. It touches on roadsters as well. The two examples they give are a fairly modified 1971 and a stock 1978 with 35,000 miles. The '71 sold on eBay in July for $8,700 and the 280 sold at auction in October for $8,000. The comment on the '71 is that it could have reasonably sold for $2,500 more and the '78 may have been overpriced by $2,000. Then, they include a bar chart of relative values of the two vintages over a 20 year period. This is from: "Prices are for cars in excellent condition. This information is provided courtesy of the Black Book and Cars of Particular Interet Value Guide. CPI is the guide most often used by credit unions to determine loan values of collectable domestic and imported cars. www.blackbookusa.com" Forgive me DAT, for I have scanned

I heard the same story from Les a few days ago, Ron. What a shame. And what a chance to say hello to the Southeast! Go figure. I would have shipped the JGTC car over. Well, I'm going anyhow. Road Atlanta is a great track. (Much different from when I drove it, but those days were crude.) The Mitty is a great event with a lot of great cars. We DO have Datsun race cars around here and most often, Theo Bean shows up with his GT and GTP Nissans. He just aquired the 1994 Daytona winning 300ZX from the Cunningham collection. He had it at Sebring last fall. I think you guys should come anyhow. We'll party.

Can't wait to see your car again! I'm taking great interest in this as I am about to do the same thing. And for the same reasons, Ben! Your car looks great.

Yea! While I was at it, I bought another car!!! Why not restore two while I'm at it? Yea...no problem.

I heard it was because they're spending all thier money moving to Tennessee. I hear ya, Preith! $ per track time is where it's at. Vintage racing is a little on the expensive side of the coin. Don't miss the Can Am reunion at Elkhart Lake. I'm still juggling the corporate books to pay for me to fly up to that one. Chris

With all hope and intention - See you there! Yea, if you like racing, old sports cars, Road Atlanta, and a really good event, don't miss THIS ONE.

Months and months and months ago, we had discussions about cleaning up and / or replacing the hardware as part of the restoration. Not just the nuts and bolts, although a major portion, but the little metal bits and pieces that hold the car together and fasten things. Hose clamps, brake parts and fittings, linkage and such. At some point all the golden cadmium plated stuff is going to have to look absolutely clean and georgeous. Some guys tried to buy new hardware and we found that a lot of it is not the same as the piece we took off the car. At least that is the case for me. You wouldn't believe all the odd little peculiarities about the first cars. I didn't want to replace everything. I think it defeats the point of "restoration" and to me, a little bit of the original car is lost when parts are replaced. Then there is the whole thought about a peculiar piece that is no longer available or in my case, peculiar to my car(s). Cleaning up and re-plating my original hardware became my choice. I located a plating company and started to experiment with the task. I soon found that the quality of the surface is directly related to the quality of the plating. Plating does not fill so if you want your hardware to have a mat finish, bead blast it. Wire brush marks show so use a brass wire wheel. The smoother the metal - the smoother and consistant the plated finish. This goes for zink plate as well. Zinc doesn't show pits and scratches as much. Basic rule of thumb is the cleaner and smoother the original piece, the better the results. One thing I really dreaded was the idea that I wouldn't know where all this stuff went after I got it all back from the plater. A big bucket of beautiful golden nuts and bolts! I will say that this is a huge task and meticulous organization is required. But armed with a couple of parts books, service manuals, photographs and drawings, I'm not anywhere near as afraid as I was! I highly recommend taking notes and pictures - good pictures. A tap and die set is a big help measuring things as well as cleaning threads and I recommend at least a cheap Harbor Freight set. Take Notes! So after looking at a number of different methods for cleaning all this junk up and seeing what I needed to get the results I was looking for, I bought a 2 quart rock tumbler from Harbor Freight ($30). Then I bought "green pyramid" tumbling media from Eastwood ($17). It is small plastic pyramid shapes just the right size to clog up your sink drain. After a few experiments, the mixture is one and a half cups green pyramids, one cup hardware and one quarter cup "Simple Green" cleaner / degreaser. Tumble 24 hours. I'm very satisfied with the results. The metal finish is smooth and even. Most of the rust is removed and the pitting is quite minimal. Hard to reach areas are, shall we say, hard to reach. Even for green pyramids. A little hand work is necessary some times. Threads don't clean up very well and I run a die on the bolts and a tap in the nuts. The nuts fill up with grime from the tumbling process anyhow and have to be cleaned. The "Simple Green" takes off all the grease and the whole mess cleans up easily with water. I puched holes in a large coffee can to strain the mix after tumbling. The liquid is black and filthy.:lick: So far, I'm having good luck and happy to report that Her Majesty the 26th will be sporting most of her original hardware - restored.

You know....If you go over to the Mikuni web site they have a nifty little slide-valve that works great as a set of six. I saw a set of them on a Z about nine months ago and am still waiting to see the car out at the shows. I am told it is the prefered Japanese drag racing design. I could probably get away with a set of Mikunis on 26th as they were technically available from Datsun as a Datsun part. I guess it would just be up to the judges to accept the dealer add-on rule, huh? I already asked Beck and he laughed. Oh well. Guess I'm off to the street modified class.

Shame on you guys for not getting out your parts books and looking this stuff up! Just comparing the black seats; the type 1 seat is listed up to 12/71 however the type 2 seat is listed up to 4/71 and from 5/71. I believe the type 2 seat was available as an domestic option, thus our import change around May of 71. They both came with four branding irons in the locations shown. The next seat change for the American market came in August 73. I found it interesting that the parts catalog doesn't say squat about the seat frame, springs, or webbing. Huh? Nova, your Fairlady could have a type 2 seat or a type 1. If you think it is a ZL model (I think we bantered it around some months ago, didn't we?) then the type 2 recliner seats would probably be correctest. Here are a couple of pictures of upholstery texture samples. The part number is in the file name. ZOOM-ZOOM

I am only able to drool Mikuni, Ron. Thanks for your clarifications. I don't know what people will think of me if I put a set on 26th, but Her Majesty told me several times that she would like a set.

Wish I had a really good close-up of a Mikuni. Search the archives and I'll bet you find what you are looking for. The top of the carburetor body will say SOLEX in big letters, but it will also say Japan right below. Mikuni. I don't agree with you, Ez, that Weber is the weapon of choice. IMO Mikuni is the weapon of choice. Here is a blurb from the Mikuni catalog. Datsun competition sold Mikunis in both Japan and America. BRE / Interpart sold Dellorato. Chris

Nice interior Mike! I didn't realize you did your dash in color. Nice! Arne, I'm not sure of anything! No sooner do I think a certain date applies than I find an exception. It all leads me to believe that there is nothing certain about what when and where - just generalities. I have never held in my hand a solid plastic seat mounted belt hook. Is it different from the plastic belt hook side mounted?

Yes! I am aware of the plastic seat cusion guards. Kats has the only car I have seen with them installed. I am a little seat impaired at the moment. I need whole seats as well as seat parts, but seats are way down on my list of appropriations as I focus on the body shell and suspension. I need to get a rolling chassis before I can think about sitting in it! Here is where I am headed, though. Original seats had metal vent grommets (4) in the seat back lumbar area. You can almost see one of them in the picture. They get very hot in the florida sun - believe me. My ex-wife has one of those cute lumbar tatoos from them.

What concerns me about your question, Steve, is that you say vinyl covered. The hooks in the picture matria posted are solid plastic. Vinyl covered what? Take a look a the picture to see if your hooks are the same size and shape. If not.... Smaller, vinyl covered metal shoulder strap hooks screw to the side of the seat with a chrome screw. This would appear on cars built prior to 8/70. I'm looking for this type of hook for my cars. Chris