26th-Z

Pictures of the wrench over the tool bag.

Two good threads. I, personally, don't buy into the paint coating claim. But the finish is smooth and not very bright. I did this valve cover for 26th-Z. I polished the living daylights out of the surface before I sprayed it wrinkle. I wanted all the casting marks removed and that took a lot of work. It turned out pretty good.

The valve covers are cast aluminum and the original finish is not polished but a dull, natural aluminum. With age, the aluminum corrodes and that is most probably the finish you are dealing with. When I rebuild engines, I take the blocks and machine parts to a machine shop that cleans the parts, engine block and such, in their cleaner tanks. That is how I get my aluminum back to the natural finish. Soda / hydro blasting will provide a similar finish. Media blasting will pit the surface. If you polish the surface, the aluminum will loose its dull, natural finish and become chrome bright, silver shiny. The more you polish, the more shiny mirror finish you will get.

Sanki is a global diversified corporation that represents many companies focusing on machine manufacturing and tools. They make the forge that forged my wrenches. https://www.sanki1948.co.jp/en/

Ha! Thanks! I don't have "Fairlady Z Story& History" so I just ordered it. Will go well with my library.

I like it. I still don't like the look of the front grill.

Kats, I don't think I ever showed you this tool set I bought. New. It comes in a cloth bag with fold-over and silver snap. It is printed "NISSAN MOTOR". The wrenches are 'SANKI' in sizes 8-10, 10-12, 12-14, 17-19, and 22-24. Drop forged; they stack up in the red metal clip. The screw drivers are stamped in the metal shank 'NISSAN' for the flat blade and 'RABBIT' for the Phillips head. The pliers and adjustable wrench are marked 'NISSAN'. It came with a valve gauge, no markings, and just one blade.

Add a dab of white paint over the center screw on the cap.

I agree with you, Alan. Restore it back to the livery it wore when it won all those races.

26th-Z came with a parallel wrench which is marked "NISSAN (nissan hamburger) MOTOR 31". I'll get a pic

Grease it lightly with regular axle grease and the lubricating oil comes from the engine.

Oh, you destroy the provenance if you repair the roof.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/275139733325?fbclid=IwAR3tZMXOQ4chqfQLc3W0tI2DH8GoEDJZg3F7hbWvk1MzJtUxwUvoliykVOA

Hey, congratulations, Kats!

And if you really want to go whole hog, equal the weights of all the connecting rods and pistons.

IMO, proper balancing of the rotating assembly includes the front pulley, crankshaft,flywheel, and clutch assembly. If I went to all the expense and effort of a lightened flywheel, I would balance the entire assembly. And as you say, if you can bolt it together in different locations, you should mark the pieces for any reassembly.

Interesting score on the silver '71 restored car today. https://bringatrailer.com/listing/1971-datsun-240z-209/ In the last three years, six cars have sold at or over $100,000. Two more did not sell with bids at or over $100,000. In the previous four years, no cars sold for the $100,000 mark. Three high priced cars had provenance, 2 Vintage Zs and the Franklin Mint car, one supposed low-mileage-all-original car went for an astronomical price while another low mileage example did not sell even though it was in the same range average as all the rest. I'm glad and surprised to see this restored example do so well. It was very nicely done.

Please explain Akira Honda. This is significant how?

Hey Kats! Happy New Year! I like the new Z but I need a pick-up truck more than another Z.

The illustration of the front suspension is early type showing the cooling fin on the rotor backing plate. The rotors for that would have been the 'vented hat' style rotor.

My oil pans are from real early cars, of course. I don't recall seeing them on late 70 models. The "issue" was with the crankshaft of L24 engines. Technical Bulletin TS70-28 of 8-21-70 notes the crankshaft change beginning with engine serial number L24-3607. I understand that the engine vibrations caused cracks in the oil pan otherwise I have no explanation for the "patch". Notice that it has a notched hole in the side face. No idea why. I met Dan a couple of times in Daytona.

Indeed the early oil pans are different; the drain plug location and a 'reinforcement' plate on the side of the pan. I am not aware of any capacity differences. My service manual lists engine oil capacity of 5 liters or 1.3 US gallons. My parts manual list a part number change around 5/71.

I started out with an Apple II+ with dual floppy drives. It had an extra memory chip which took it to ?64k? ram? Maybe 128k.

You can expect to spend around $5 / sq. ft. for a nice epoxy floor. I really like mine. It can scratch and gouge if you scrape something over it. Mine is a light tan color and shows dirt real easily but I can clean it up with a Swiffer and it looks great.

The discussion about hand throttles: I did a search / topics "hand throttle" and I also did a search / topics "hand throttle delete". Happy reading Long thread but a couple of interesting comments Great thread