26th-Z

The car has no side marker lights or the cutouts for them. I enlarged the wheel and in so doing, was able to look across to see the cutouts for the shark vents.

Are these the same cars, kats?

Take a look at Z tek http://www.z-tekmfg.com/cat1.html for the shift knob. The original walnut knob would do best with the wood wheel IMHO (although the Momo looks like mahogany). I haven't seen this particular wheel in a while. Just do a Momo search and all kinds of sites come up. I know the hub adaptor is available. I'll have to check the PN and get back to you.

Oops!

Is this what you are looking for?

I believe you will find American Racing Libras on the early BRE 240's. They were silver. If black is what you are looking for, I would definately suggest a Watanabe wheel.

And this

These are the best two pictures I have of the early hooks. They are coated metal similar to the straps that hold the wiring harness - thick vinyl coated metal. I do not own a set. I plan to make some.

My car is up on stands now. I use the frame rails in the front and set the stands no further back than the bell housing. I set the rear stands on the front of the differential frame so that the diff hangs to the rear of the stands. The car is very steady and the stands are in an out-of-the-way position for most of my work underneath the car. General rulle of thumb is to set the stands further apart for lighter weight chassis support. Don't be afraid or too lazy to move the stands as the weight distribution changes. Be very mindfull that working underneath a car on jack stands is very hazardous and should be checked frequently. Nobody drop a car on themselves, Ok? :finger:

SummitRacing.com

If I'm not mistaken, Datzun76, your wheels are clear coated. You may seek the best results by having those wheels done professionally. The slotted aluminum mags by Zs-ondabrain may not be clear coated. Either way, sealing them after all your work will ensure they stay that way - nice shine - nice tatoo - nice...

The concourse guy just wet himself! Give me some time to take photographs as I am not digital. I have some things that may interest you. Great shot of the hubcaps! Notice the difference between the tabs.

I asked Carl Beck about a splash pan some time ago and he told me they were not on my early car. That's good because I don't intend to drive the car in the rain anymore. The only thing my car is soaking up is money? ROFL ROFL

Alan makes a good point about various finishes applied to various parts. For instance, primer used to cover replacement parts is different from the primer used on the car. Parts applied on the assembly line were indeed different in many cases from the replacement parts ordered separately. I followed a conversation on IZCC about the color of the tail lights. I have discovered a few "early" parts for which there is no reference! Applied on the early assembly line and subsiquently dropped from production. Certain authorities claim the piece is aftermarket when I know well it is from the factory. In many cases, the original part design was changed when the first production lot was completed and a second lot was ordered. Screws changed, Plastic color changed. The first ash trays were grey plastic painted black. All the rest are black plastic, for example. My point is that there are many subtle part differences and that there is no technical "correct". I think it is one of the many aspects of enjoying Z's. I think it would be a shame to discredit a car represented as original because some aspect doesn't match another car. We nit and pick, but it is fun for us. My car came without a fuel vapor recovery system. The gas tank is different and the plumbing is missing. The cable used to pull the wiring harness over the wheel well was left in the car. My correct is different from your correct! I hope we continue to have conversations like this one. I never would have guessed the splash pan came other than glosss black.

Check this car out; http://www.zcar.com/classifieds/index.php?method=showdetails&list=advertisement&rollid=6147&fromfromlist=classifiedscategory&fromfrommethod=showhtmllist&fromfromid=29&

That's exactly what you are looking for. At the price, it will probably last long enough to do your car. I think we are talking about two things, though. How to get the rust off and what to do when you get the rust off. For certain, the cleaned piece will surface rust within months. I think this method is ideal for body bolts and other fasteners that will be paint finished. You could always clear coat the exposed end once it is in place. But short of plating, the fastener is going to rust. If you are going to plate the hardware, there is no point getting the tumbler.

It's a fine thread and typical for many bolts on the Z. Make sure to tap out that paint before you cram the bumper bolt into it! :classic:

Oh, by all means. Tape up the holes before you weld:classic: and tell us what happens

The car you describe, Zep, is what I call a "basket case" because all the parts come in a basket! I went out to find this example of what I have dealt with many times. http://www.race-cars.com/carsales/lotus/1055121110/1055121110pp.htm When you look at a basket case, be aware that no matter how complete it all looks, parts will be missing. Many, many nuts and bolts will be missing. Without some sort of record of how the car came apart, you will never be sure how well it will go back together. The computer list you describe is nice, but don't kid yourself into thinking there won't be problems. Obviously, the car came apart for some significant reason and you can bet that the process of disassembling the car damaged some things. This is a restoration / reconstruction project - very long term and costly. So costly, that it is easily half as cheap to buy an assembled car in poor condition. Taking the car apart decreased it's value by 75% to the point that it is now far more valuable as parts - chassis included. Datsun Z's, on the grand scale of things, are pretty easy cars to work on and assemble. There is one hell of a lot of documentation available to help assemble a completely dismanteled car. And get it running. A Z would make a great candidate for a learning car. With the right frame of mind, one could find great rewards from such an immense project. I don't blame you for passing on this one. Just thought I would share some personal experiences.

Yea, I have never seen one - picture please?

Gloss black enamel - same as the cross member and suspension.

I use a product called "OSPHO" by The Skybryte Company. It is a solution of phosphoric acid used by painters to prepare rusted metal surfaces for painting. I soak all kinds of rusted stuff in the solution or just spray it on the metal. Over time, it will take the rust off. You can paint over it after it dries and Home Depot sells it. I'm surprised you guys don't talk about this stuff. I soaked some metal I picked up on Omaha Beach that was all encrusted in sea rust and coral growth. After two days, it was bright shiny steel. I have soaked cannon balls and nails from sunken wooden sailing ships with the same results. Simply spraying OSPHO on metal turns it black with a white residue. OSPHO is water soluable. OSPHO is nasty stuff, but I would soak my nuts and bolts in it before I would use a rock tumbler.

It's either 4 or 6 mm ID, Carl. You can tell by the size of the nipple. One is small and the other is large. I can't remember between the two, but the fuel pump takes the larger 6mm.

Carl is very correct about the way Z's were marketed and the vinyl along with side moldings came "extra" for the "luxury model". I think it would be very appropriate and period correct to cover the top in vinyl and add moldings. I am also in favor of other aftermarket items such as Amco chrome and interior parts. It's all part of the Z lore in my opinion.

I have been pretty lucky and my income has remained steady. I'm not saving much at the moment - spending it on the Z.