Ed

NOt that I have anything against the 350, I wouldn't mind having one myself (the wife would kill me if I came home with one:D ). But this site is "mainly" dedicated to the older body style 240-280Z. This helps us maintain our current knowledge base that everyone enjoys and finds invaluable.:classic:

IMO the mirror tint looks great on newer cars that have a metallic color paint job. To put a mirror tint on an older car just doesn't look right. And you don't want to go too dark. Because in the day time it's great but at night you can't see anything without having to roll down your window. 20-30% would be about the darkest I would go and semi-metallic (the metallic lasts longer than the regular tint). Look in my gallery and you will see mine 27% with a semi-metallic. Edit: page two of my gallery and the drivers side window is down. But you can tell from the passenger window that it looks pretty good!

Welcome to the club! You will always find great advice in this club for your 240. I don't think you will find any advice here for your Texas painted 350, . Let us know which you like most, your 240 or your 350. This would be interesting....

Sorry, I think you have missunderstood my last post, I was asking Enrique if he agreed with me. Not that I was Enrique. (BTW I think Enrique is pretty knowledgeable when it comes to bodywork and I value his opinion IMO).

To me this sounds like the sheetmetal has been stretched. Right now the metal is undecided, either up or down whichever side it gets persuaded to. To me this is something that a backyard mechanic can not fix properly. It has taken decades of abuse for the metal to fatigue and comform to it's current state. To properly fix this you will need a torch, a dolly, and a hammer. You must heat the metal in the proper location then hammer the stretched metal back into it's original state. This is something you don't just learn over the weekend. It takes years of practice. Honestly, pay an experienced bodyshop to fix this. Enrique, what do you think?

I think it would be cool too. My only concern would be that over time with all the up's and down's and left's and right's there would be some kind of stress on where the braided line connects to the caliper. It would however be cool if it worked, and it would really, really suck if it didn't.

Sounds good! I just measured my braided lines that I got a couple of years ago from MSA. These go from the strut bracket to the fender bracket and they measure only 12".:classic:

I was hoping to see you in your overalls with some grease under them nails.

I find this interesting. You are saying the S/S brake line will go directly from the bracket on the inner fender to the caliper? Are the lines longer than the regular upgrade ones? I'd also be interested in seeing this upgrade. Looking forward to my summer issue.

Now why are you going to cover that beautiful new paint job with a bra? Don't those things scratch the paint?

I'm not too sure about that. I think the S/S line replaces just the rubber line. You still need to retain the S bend solid line that goes from the caliper to the bracket on the strut. From the strut you need a flexible line to the inner fender bracket (the one by the crossmember mount). Even if you were able to mount the flexible line from the inner fender directly to the caliper I wouldn't think that there would be enough slack. You would be taking a chance at breaking the line. If you do have to replace the solid line you can pick one up at any NAPA automotive supply store. Make sure it's the metric kind. Carefully bend into the "S" shape. Good luck. Edit: sorry I just noticed your location, try any automotive supply store or your nissan dealer.:classic:

Pancho, that underside looks Good! If or when my undercarage looks like that i'm going to get my pillow and sleep under the car:D . Funny those don't look like metric bolts:ermm: .

Use the chemical stripper on your larger pannels. Make sure you read the directions completely. Neutralizing is just as important as using. I don't like it because it can get into those nooks and crannys then you never know if you got it all out.

Don't go dragging me into this.....

I've heard this before, why?

A girl not afraid of tools..... :love:

I don't know if they still make them but back in the day (circa 1988) I had a rotor that had a built in spring. When the rpms reached about 5500-6000 the spring would compress and cut out. It definately limited the revs. Couldn't tell you who made it or anything.

40 grit is too much. I'd start with a 120 and that would be just to remove the however many coats of paint there are. Then when the primer starts to show switch to 220 grit to smooth it out. There is nothing wrong with leaving some of the factory primer on there especially if the metal underneath is clean.

Those pieces don't seem too hard to fab up if you can't find them. Mine are at the platers right now. If you need it I can take a picture of them when I get them back to give you an idea of what they look like.

I thought if you drain the gas then the tank is empty and it will rust. Aren't you supposed to fill the tank and add fuel stabilizer? Here are some more tips: 1. Wash the car completely, wax all painted and polished surfaces. 2. Drain oil regardless of mileage since oil change and replace with normal quantity of fresh oil. 3. Remove battery and coat cable terminals with petroleum jelly. If there is evidence of acid spillage around the battery tray, neutralize with baking soda and repaint. 4. Remove spark plugs and add a small quantity of oil to each cylinder. Turn the engine a few revolutions. Install spark plugs. 5. Insert a paper card, lightly saturated with silicone oil, between the points (if you still have points). 6. Check tire pressures.

N A S T Y !

It's the same thing.

I had the same headers on my L28 with a 5speed. I don't remember any clearance issues. They bolted on real nice.

Here's and idea, lets all meet in front of Victors car at high noon for a club picture.

If you want to do a basic rebuild things are not that complicated and not that expensive. Disassemble the block, take it to an engine shop have them hot tank it (which cleans it inside and out) replace the freeze plugs and hone the cylinder walls. Buy a rebuild kit to replace all gaskets, bearings and rings. Use new con-rod bolts and put it all back together yourself. No special machine shop required for this.:classic: