Dave WM

I run high zinc oil, have read that is important with flat tappet valve train. Modern engines use roller bearings. I wonder if the camshaft can be saved? weld on some new metal and re grind.

I got a barely perceivable drag at .028 using calipers. I have a head on the bench right now. Later today I will check it out by installing the OE seal and see how much it takes to move the valve.

can you check the ID of the seal? I have some OE ones new in the bag I will check against those. Just to compare the resting diameter. did you oil the seal before installing? Somewhere I read you should with reg engine oil.

pull the CSV out and see if its leaking fuel. if its warm where you are (above 70f) see if it fires while cranking the engine (it should not).

I would make sure you thermotime/CSV are working right.

check the fuel, no joke, I did this and was out of gas.

same here on the maxima head, all bolts, looked factory. I still like the after market studs with the hex head ends, but as ZH mentioned IIRC mine came with the 13mm head and locking nuts, did not like those at all, ended up using regular nuts (12mm hex) on them.

I stuck a motorcycle engine in the freezer once to chill the crank for bearing install. funny what you can get away when left alone for a weekend.

I like the louvers on the sides, I guess that directs the rain water up to cool the door hinges.

https://orlando.craigslist.org/cto/d/orlando-old-model-datsun-car-for-sale/6922538597.html Reminds me of corvette summer. "This is a very old antique car, it is ready to go. Was well taken care of, exterior purple, interior black, and motor still runs. "

Make sure its installed correctly. The float needs to travel in a vertical line, if the sensor is not clocked correctly it will not travel its full arc. If it is clocked correctly its possible the sensor arm has been bent, easy fix, bend it like you would an old school toilet float until its right. If not done already, you can pull the sending unit out, clean it with some evap o rust and check it over closely. Install with a new O ring and you should be good to go. I am thinking of my 75, 77 may have a top mounted sensor, if so don't think the clocking is a problem but still would not hurt to pull it out to maker sure there is no corrosion limiting travel on the rheostat part, and the bend to fix still applies. You should get a resistance reading as well, I suppose the full tank could be reading right at the sensor and the gauge could be wrong. IIRC full should read around 10 ohms empty something like 90 ohms.

just to clarify, car in N, sitting on level ground and you crank, it will start rolling? so when it starts and the engine in running the car will move forward again in neutral? I don't like terms like "surge" the 5 speed is a sychromesh transmission, so all the gears on the counter shaft and output shaft are always meshed. The output shaft is locked to ONE set of gears at a time by the hubs. there is always some fluid drag that will tend to turn the output shaft since all the gears are spinning on it. Now if you have some kind of binding between the output shaft and the gear needle bearings, or if the brass baulk rings are not properly fitted, there could be some drag that is excessive. turning the input shaft by hand will turn the output shaft just by the slight drag of the oil. did you pay attention the correct orientation of the 3/4 sychro hub? I don't know what would happen of even if you could install it backwards, but it does have a correct direction.

check the oil level in the gear box. did you replace the brass balk rings?

I got a couple from this guy. I did local pickup, only concern is how they would survive shipping. They look very OE like. https://www.ebay.com/itm/McCord-7114M-Head-Gasket-Fits-1970-84-Nissan-2-4L-2-6L-2-8L-6-cyl-engine-280Z/142521324095?fits=Model%3A280Z&hash=item212eeed23f:g:IE4AAOSw4A5Ym8kz:sc:USPSFirstClass!32819!US!-1 McCord gasket seems out of production, so old stock. What's the problem with Felpro?

I think I am going to get one, looks like fun tool to use.

I can't imagine you letting the wiggle go un measured.... :) snorkle need a procedure. If you come up with something I will try as well. I suppose a way to measure the bore would be best a series of go no/go round gauges would be best for the bore.

dusty snorkle (there is that word again CO). Clean undercoat and heavy dust on top. Seems to support the idea of something new that sat undisturbed for years. Crud on pedal, drove it in garage, never looked at it again. Very interesting. OP if you can get some video.

look under the front carpets floor boards for rust. engine bay look under the battery and under the brake master cylinder for rust. rear hatch, open and look on the car body, not the hatch, on the corners on the bottom of the opening for rust. tap along the dog legs of the body see if they sound the same as the rest of the body (common area for repair with too much bondo). look under to body for damage to the frame rails from improper lifting. Read up on the correct way to lift before letting any one work on it for you.

how are the guides? I was messing with my N47 and noticed I had NO play on the intake, some on the exhaust. Just wondering if exhaust typically show more wear.

HR puff and stuff / Sesame st were big with the heads in HS...

Hopefully one of the members here can come over and take a good look at it to tell you the best course of action. IMHO keep it as original as possible for best value (plus if you plan to make it a daily driver, they are very nice in the stock configuration.

going to have to work that out yourself, best bet would be to go to a AC shop and take the old line with you. Its a simple flare fitting, and stanrdard size line.

binary should switch at both high and low, so it should work fine, extra protection from too low Freon.

think this is called punch drunk.