Dave WM

somewhere I read that soak them for a few hours in a crock pot with antifreeze is a good way to clean.

looking at the fork makes it look like a step. but I can see what you mean could be an optical trick. foreground/background.

this step, I don't see that on the slider from my trans.

ZH what about that step in the slider?

something about that hub does not look right. what's with the stepped ridge? I don't recall that on my zx trans. And if its correct maybe the hub is installed backwards. looks like it would fit better.

I used the approach ZH mentioned, get the car up in the air so you have plenty of room, e brake off, get an open end wrench on the back nut, position the wrench so it will jam as you turn the drive shaft, should be able to get about 1/4 turn, maybe less, but once it breaks free, hopefully it will come of quickly. If not just reposition and repeat.

some how cars look like they have been eating McD and supersizing now a days. That and they remind me of kitchen appliances on wheels. While on the subject of wheels, I hope someday sidewalls make a comeback.

Is that little green car a future model? looks nice.

can you tell if the shift rod seems fully seated in the detent? IIRC after shifting you should feel a tiny bit of fore/aft play in the shifter, if not then perhaps the rod had not seated into a detent. in other words the shifter ball is firmly pressing inside the socket after engaging, not good.

no oil in filter, no prime in pump. Could take quite a while for oil to start coming from the oil spray bar, and even then, its not very energetic at starter RPM. If you have the large filter, that takes nearly a quart of oil to fill.

just a flesh wound.

right of passage used to be wheels, motorcycle at 15 then car at 16. I was outta there at 15 come home to sleep. I guess the new right of passage is the latest x box or whatever, maybe I phones. Funny how that is. maybe each generation just needs something different unless they happen to be a throw back.

fouling plugs was the main issue. We met up and I went over the system. New plugs get black and wet pretty fast (minutes of running). However this is just a start up and idle (extended long enough for the T stat to open) and a few short burst, so the rich look may just be due to no extended normal use to burn off the start mix. I did the remove the oil cap test after the car warmed up, it would increase in idle speed and increase the vacuum (indicating a rich mix). A check of the FP looks good, 36-38 engine off, 30 at idle with a vacuum of just about 16inhg. The AFM had broken glue gobs so I assume it had been messed with at some time in the past. I brought my known good AFM from my test engine, We swapped it, and the vacuum deepened and the remove the oil cap test resulted in a drop in idle, worsening running. This lead me to believe the AFM was suspect. 1st I opened up the orig AFM bypass to allow more air to bypass the flap. this helped (deepned the vacuum) but did not lean enough to get to the point of lean enough to pass the oil cap test. I could improve the idle with the AFM by holding the flap more closed (lean) so we proceeded to tighten the clock spring about 3 teeth total. Reinstalled it and the orig now adjusted AFM, reset the bypass. Now removing the oil cap results in a marked decrease in idle performance. For some reason I never check the CTS resistance after warm up so that could be an issue (I just forgot, duh), but I discount it since the spare AFM I brought seemed to work so well. I am not sure the orig AFM is optimized, its better but I did notice a small backfire (exhaust) just as we were wrapping it up for the day (goose the throttle, left off, minor backfire thru exhaust). I suggested just reinstall the airfilter (it was missing) and stop any further work on the EFI until a road test can be conducted to test under actual driving conditions (could not test today). Aside from the possible rich fouling (which may not be an issue at all once a more comprehensive drive test is done) the engine sounded great. smooth, all injectors clicking away, no miss, no excessive valve noise. We had a temp fuel supply setup (gas can on elevated platform to simulate correct fuel level). as the tank is not yet installed. I suggested checking with a local marine store about a prefilter (not the G3 fram but a 100 micron designed for prefilter use). This as a precaution against any large particles fouling the OE pump screen. I am running such a filter and have had no issues with fuel starvation. I noted on the G3 my pump would make noise, not so with the large as designed prefilter. After its ready to get on the road we will check and see about a fine tune of the AFM. For now his efforts will concentrate on getting the temp gauge/fuel pressure gauge to work. We tried shorting to ground the temp sensor wire, and inconsistent results, sometimes ground would work some times it would not. Odd. I suggested getting a new sensor and fitting for mounting since I was having a very hard time getting a good ohm reading direct off the center terminal to chassis ground. The oil pressure was a bit more confusing the sender seemed to be working 90ohms engine off 0 ohms engine on (that seemed odd but I tested it to my car and I got the same results). Clearly the sender is doing something yet the gauge was not even coming up to zero key on. I check the voltage at the oil pressure harness. I expected to see a wide flux in the voltage on my digital meter as the built in VR on the gauge duty cycles the supply. This is how my gauge works, 0 to over 10v constantly changing. I should have brought my simpson 260 which I think would be a better meter for reading this VR voltage. Anyway on Yarbs car the voltage was very stead right around 2.6-2.8 volts. I suspect a VR issue or some other problem with the gauge it self. Ground the oil pressure lead from the harness had no effect on the gauge. He is going to need to resolve this gauge issue both for the temp and oil pressure before getting the car on the road. the rest of the car looked very rust free. he only has a couple small areas that will need attention, but the area under the battery, the floor pans, around the wheel arches all looked very good. The frame rails look good as well. I am pretty sure it had the orig paint, so it would show its problems. Oh and checked the timing, set to 10bdc and confirmed the mech advance was working (visual it would advance with rpm).

timing maybe do to rough low idle, mech advance not working do to low speed. Sounds like fuel issue, get the pressure gauge back on in and confirm you are getting static pressure of 36 engine off. I once had the same problem, was out of gas, took my wife to tell me that.

here is the current plan fuel pressure test cyl pressure test timing check vacuum hook up for test run Temp check CTS at operating temp check have spare AFM and ECU if needed.

its looks fine, just has to catch oil sling and send it on down the line. later transmissions increase the size of that counter bearing, so I presume it was deemed too small. The shim was not stuck up in the front plate was it?

I was trying to make a video until my sd card was filled. I started the test engine on the stand, put a meat thermos in the rad idled for a few min until the temp stabilized. Reading was right at 160f, which maybe the temp of the stat I put in, I presume so. I got a reading on the gauge bout 3/16 left of center for what that is worth. shut down the engine and read the resistance of the temp sensor harness (at bullet connectors) got 500ish ohms. For fun I inserted my 500 ohm rheostat in place of the temp sensor. started the engine and observed the vacuum (my way of reading mix of engine besides just listening to it). I could tell NO change when adjusting from 0-500 ohms so I presume that it must ignore that sensor at that low of a resistance. IIRC its supposed to stop listening to it at about 150f so that makes sense. So another test will be to read that sensor once you get up to a min of 160f. Just trying to keep some more notes for comparison.

it was just something that I considered as a possible problem. My idle is less than perfect so always looking for some cause. In this case I think its a red herring, the canister presents enough of a restriction that even at idle the minor leak seem to have no effect. Perhaps as CO mentioned if everything else was perfect it could be noticeable, but in my case its not. Might be something others can look at just for comparison. IF there was a major flaw in the canister I can see how a stuck purge valve could be an issue. Just one more thing to add to the notebook of things to check.

I am going to try and meet up with Yarb soon to see if I can help figure out rich running. so I don't forget, one of the test I want to run is a power test, disable on cylinder at a time (disconnect the injector plug) and listen to the engine for a change in RPM. Yarb let me know if you have already done this. If not def a good start to see if all the holes are working as they should. The plan is to do a compression check/base time set/overall look over and check some basic readings. I will have my car so we have something to compare to as well. I will also bring my spare ECU just in case that is an issue. I have a spare AFM as well, its a earlier model so not sure if that will be an issue.

if you watch the guy "villageland" on YT, he shows how he does it. Really wails on it with a small sledge, kinda scary to watch without sound. I cant recall how hard it was to remove mine, but I do recall finding that darn oil trough, I keep going back to it since it was so easy to break if you don't lift the adapter plate off straight up. You can buy replacements but they seem softer and maybe weaker that the orig. You don't want to lose oil supply back to the tail shaft bushing.

have you got the stuff you need to do a swap? the pedal box and trans/diff/drive shaft? That should be fun, if you want some help, I am not far from Lakeland will pm you later with contact info.

before making in conclusions it sound like you are almost done with the normal stuff. Just get that timing set, and confirm the temp sender resistance readings (don't think I saw that in your response). Make sure thermostat is working and you are getting up to correct operating temps. Once all that is covered buy some new plugs (ngk) install and take for a short test ride, like 10 miles of normal driving. pull the plugs and post up the pics. They are the best indicator short of a gas analyzer of the fuel mix.

sorry did not see the pic, do what ZH said pound on it right at the junction of the adapter plate to front case. Use a hard plastic hammer and wail on it. get ready for it to suddenly separate, and break the oil trough. IIRC I set mine on some 2x4 to keep the input shaft clear and it standing upright, then hold on to the output shaft, bang up on the adapter plate, just catching the edge.

The idle bypass only has a very minor effect on the fuel mix, and only on the idle mix. How are you determining the running rich? If it is indeed rich you will want to 1st verify the ECU temp sensor is tracking the temp curve, see the FSM for resistance measurements to temp reading. Use a thermometer in the neck of the rad to confirm your temps. Take the readings AT THE ECU 36 pin connector. 13 and chassis ground IIRC. resistance in the connectors both at the sensor and the bullet connectors on the sub harness must be clean and free of corrosion. A high resistance will result in a rich mix. If that check you need to confirm fuel pressure, should be about 36-38 psi with the engine off pump on. With normal manifold vacuum (about 17-20 in hg) you should see around 29-31 psi (engine running idling after warmed up). The fuel pressure should track with vacuum, so as you open the throttle quickly the fuel pressure should momentary rise, the drop back when throttle is released. higher vacuum less pressure is the key. Depending on the outcome of those there are more things to look at, but those will be the problem most of the time, assuming no one as monkeyed with the AFM spring settings. As to the orig question about the bypass, I had some luck with setting it by using a vacuum gauge on the intake manifold, letting the engine warm up an settle down, making sure everything else was right (timing/fuel pressure/temp sensor) I found that I could tweek that adjustment to max out the vacuum (best eff of the engine at idle indicated by best vacuum I could pull) I then leaned it some (CCW) until I could see the vacuum start to drop off. This setting seemed to get me right to the oil cap off test. the oil cap off test will be when it idles well but as soon as you remove the oil cap it will start to miss and quickly die. This is due to unmetered air causing a over lean condition. If you remove the cap and nothing happens you are a bit rich at idle but will look the best on the vacuum gauge. if you remove the oil cap and it speeds up you are too rich to the point where the engine is no longer at optimal mix even for best vacuum. Again I use the vacuum reading as a way to determine if the engine is operating at peak efficiency.

seems to me for testing a simple rubber plug that is cone shaped and retained the block off plate should do.