sweatybetty

thinking about buying this http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/classic15c/16-6981 just wanting to know if anyone has this set-up and some feedback thanks all sb

try again

my january 72 has the original fiberglass buckets

double post

finally found the answer. hopefully i can find this switch..........

that is exactly what im trying to do, use the switch to ground the starter solenoid relay. i added a relay so the starter solenoid power is not going through the ignition switch. my problem is finding a normally closed switch. i could just delete the switch and ground the relay, but i was hoping to keep it from starting in gear.

the main problem i am having is this i bought both a neutral and back up light switch. they look a bit different (mainly the connectors), but they both do the same function, which is make contact (close) when the plunger is pushed in. what i need is a switch that makes contact when the plunger is out (normally closed). when in neutral, the plunger drops into a small detent in the shifting mechanism that allows the solenoid to engage the starter. all of the switches i have found are the opposite. i have several part numbers and called standard brands this morning, but they cant tell me if a certain switch is normal open or normal closed if someone has a switch that they could test.................. here is a picture of my trans. in the 1st picture you can see the nss to the right of the shifter, and the bu switch just to the right of the fill plug

from Portland. that explains everything

for a 72 4 speed. i bought this one on ebay http://www.ebay.com/itm/Neutral-Safety-Switch-Standard-NS-195-fits-1974-Nissan-260Z-/171762390426?fits=Model%3A240Z&hash=item27fdd6159a:g:qDMAAOSw3ydVsEO-&vxp=mtr that states it is a neutral switch, but standard parts lists it as a back up light switch http://ecatalog.smpcorp.com/STD/#/vehicles/parts/num/NS-195?type=s thanks all sb

you are correct. i have always just done farthest first

it took me quite a few tries to get the MC bled out completely. once thats done, bleed out the rest in this order: LR RR RF LF

would anyone be willing to trace out a template of the kick panels and mail it? i would prefer a tracing of the bare masonite? or whatever was used with the locations of all the holes. i am more than willing to pay for your time and postage. its for a 1972. if you can, please send a pm thanks all sb

imho, you have already wasted enough $$ on it, dont waste any more..........

he still hasnt posted that he has checked the adjustment. could be that simple. it sounds like he just wants to throw $$$ at it.

i am near the point of needing a camshaft, as i hope to have the head back from the shop this week. kind of hard to make a decision, but i have narrowed it down to 2. so, my question is are any of you using either of these, and if so, how do you like it. my engine is a l24 that is .75mm over and the pistons are .5mm out of the block. the head is a E31 with 280 valves. i have weber carbs, 3-2-1 header and pertronix ignition and a fidanza flywheel. http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/cam-specs/Details.aspx?csid=1153&sb=2 http://www.compcams.com/Company/CC/cam-specs/Details.aspx?csid=1152&sb=2 thanks all sb

just one of the symptoms. the grinding should go away once the clutch is properly adjusted

anyone know what the difference is between the trans neutral and back-up light switches? this is for a 1972 car thanks all sb

i think im in the wrong trade.......$10 a minute

very nice!

i placed a rather large order on 10/2/16. on 10/3 i get an email saying the order wont ship for 4 to 6 weeks because 1 item wasnt in stock. to me, this is rather a strange way to do business. is this normal? it has also happen on the last 2 orders i have placed, but the wait was about 1 week. i would think in this modern day of technology, that your on-line ordering system would state when an item is out of stock. i did call and remove the 1 item and was told the rest would ship today. other than this, i am happy with your service and the parts i have bought thanks

i have never thought of that. great idea, but i would put a couple of head bolts in just to keep the head from turning into a missile

nice looking stuff, too

mucho thanko

i did end up painting the housings with some krylon fusion paint. looks much better now, but time will tell

it was kind of cluttered there with the oil pump and radiator hose, and making a mount for this side was easier than modifying the original. and i like different