sblake01

They can be a pain to remove at the junkyard. You have to soak them repeatedly with penetrating oil and I would use flare wrenches on the nuts instead of crescents, open ends, vise grips, etc. Removing the top nut first seems to give the best chance of getting it out in one piece.

I too have had my Z and 320 pickup insured with them for about ten years w/no problems. Got to love Tomoawk's comment in that thread! Obviously, Hagerty insurance is not for him.

Should be the same switch. Sounds like you have a short somewhere in the brake light circuit. Possibly the reason that the PO removed it.

Are the wires there? Two green/red tracer with female connectors somewhere in the vicinity of where the switch would be. If you jump them together you can see if your brake lights work. Also, when you do get a switch, make sure the plastic piece that goes in the hole on the shaft is there. If not, the plunger on the brake light switch will go through the hole and your brake lights will stay on.

If you do go the junkyard route, it takes skills and patience to remove one of those suckers in one piece! We discussed that in another thread. The only problem with Wing's last statement is that they can't be loose. Loose EGR tube=exhaust leak.

That engine won't work in any year Z unless you have the bottom end of the L24E machined for the Z oil pickup and use the S30/S130 oil pan. I also have 810. The 810 and first gen Maxima have front sump oil pans and the S30/S130 have a rear sump oil pans. The trans would work if you wanted and auto trans in a Z.

So...that would be a RC RC BRE roadster?

Left side of the lever about a foot above the pedal.

Remember, and no matter how much tries to defend it, he's 19. We were all once 19. Only so much of what is 'right' as stated by older, more experienced people is going to sink in. Age and time are the best teacher. I do, however, find myself looking back to the things that older people told me when I was younger and thinking to myself, 'you know, they were right'. Dream on, DtP1337, you're entitled to that, just try to give some credence to the quote/unquote 'wisdom' that some of us old farts will try to impart upon you. We were your age once and we'd like to see you reach ours.

78 was the final evolvement of the S30. It was also the first year of the internally regulated alternator. I've seen those pages before and I'm not sure of the accruacy some of the info. As far as the 'Z legend' goes (I think that's the term they used) it ended with the advent of the 280ZX. I wonder why the 350Z wasn't named the 350ZX. Forget legend. The only connection the 'new Z' has with the S30 is coporate marketing. But, I digress. rebelgt, if you want a 1978 FSM, pm me with your address and I'll mail you one.

Right, now I recall you saying that in another thread.

Fair enough but the thread was dead until Michelle revived it with the question posed in the last line of my post-"Where did all the Oregon people go???"

He forgot to mention the dealer option louvered inspection lids. Seriously, ads like this are the main reason I only look at Datsuns for sale on eBay for amusement and entertainment.

Lots of people sell Datsun stuff on eBay that can still be purchased at the dealer or other factory based parts sources. I'm not a huge fan of eBay. I only buy things that I've done research on, know I can't find anywhere else, like the price and shipping costs. Even then I check feedback profiles and sellers former names, history, etc. And I would never purchase a 'big ticket' item like a car, motorcycle or basically anything that costs more than about $70-80 on eBay. There's just to much B.S. and potentially dishonest stuff going on there. I was wondering why this thread is so wide. I have a widescreen and I still have to scroll side to side. Hey, WingZro, think 800 x 600 or smaller!

Check the top, right fuse.

Don't care for his high shipping costs and the fact that you don't find out the shipping costs 'till after you win the auction. I can find the stuff he sells elswhere.

I thought about that.....doesn't add up.

I still don't get the '950' part.

No, swap it for a Mikuni! I'll bet that red_dog007 is regretting posing this question.

....I was going to say that.

Bounty seems to produce better lowend power than shop towels. Remember, they are the quicker picker upper! (I'll go away now)

What I'm getting from this is that the car runs okay with a fully charged battery but gradually gets worse as the voltage diminishes. That would indicate the the initial problem is in the charging system. Could be the alternator or regulator but it could also be a fusible link, a short, etc. The other problems mentioned are ancillary to this and really can't be assessed or addressed until the charging problem is solved. Need to put a voltmeter on battery while the car is running and see if it indicates somewhere in the range of over 12.5 volts at idle with the headlights on and over 14 volts at 2400 rpm. If you're not getting that there's a problem in the changing system. I'm reluctant to say 'bad alternator' or 'bad regulator' because other things can cause charging problems.

I already called him on those in the other thread.

I don't understand your post. Who's arguing?EDIT: Oh, I get it. You're going back to the stuff the seems to have been settled or at least forgotten about in August. I was just trying to set WingZro straight about the wire holders, post #31 forward.

Have you tested the battery voltage while it's running to see if it is charging?