sblake01

My little brother uses a program called Zillatube. I've never tried it but he says to google it and check it out.

No problem, I have a wide screen.

Blame Dave's picture in post #10 but you can sure see the detail.

Come on, guys! Note the section this is posted in. I didn't take it that seriously. Take the two statements "What the hell is wrong with this forum?" and "This is getting really friggin' old" and think "Jerry Seinfeld".

That would depend on how far that is from his reserve. I think he'll most likely relist it.

May have worked okay but it's just.......wrong!

Would be amazing if you did see it. It's on television....in CANADA.

Okay but why?

That's life on the internet. I just find something else to do. People speak of 'withdrawals' when this site isn't available. I spend as much time, maybe more, as anyone here when it's working but give me a break, it's just a car site.

Here's an old thread with the page that shows th test procedure. It's from a 76 FSM but the values are the same as a 78.http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?p=220706&highlight=temp+sensor#post220706

I've had a bad connection at the temperature sensor on my 810 and a bad temperature sensor on my 280Z cause that same problem. Not saying that that's your problem but it's easy to check. Pull the connector from the temp. sensor and clean the terminals on both the sensor and the connector and see if the problem goes away. If it doesn't, run a resistance check as per the FSM on the temp. sensor. If it's good you can rule it out and if it's bad you've solved the problem.

Heres a .jpg for those without Photoshop:

Read the first post and the title of the thread.:cross-eye

A catalog from here: http://www.zcarparts.com/

I thought that figure was derived by dividing 52 weeks by 12 or 4.333 weeks per month but 365/7/12 actually equals roughly 4.345 not 39 as you said. I also think we're putting waaaaaaay too much thought into this:)

Well, to properly work the math, if you start with January 1, October 1 would actually be 9 months later-not September 1.

Yes, same oil. But it will work with mineral, ester, or PAG so it could be used to replace R12 or R134a. They say it will work without a flush but I never retrofit a system without flushing it first.

Freeze 12 actually works a little better than R12 and uses about 10% by volume to achieve it's optimum cooling, contains no hydrocarbons or CFC's (like most of the other R12 alternatives do) but the most compelling reason I can give for using it besides the fact that I have two vehicles I've used it in for over three years with no problems is the price. 30lb. R12-$700-800, 30lb Freeze 12-$135-150. On the subject of hoses, I replace them with the modern type lined hoses that Carl mentions but I also get rid of the barb/hose clamp arrangement that the old aftermarket systems used regardless of the refrigerant I use. I have a hose crimper and use crimp fittings rather than that older style. Most of the leaks I've ever detected in the old aftermarket systems were at the fitting rather than along the hose itself.

The 75-76 bumper ends are NLA through Nissan.

That makes a good case for learning how to do those things yourself.

The main problem you'd run into there is mounting the center mounted evaporator used in the 280Z in a 240Z.

Replace the front diff mount.

Like you say, it's been around. I've seen that one a few times on eBay. Maybe he needs to lower the reserve.

If you're talking about the L shaped, layered thing that bolts to the bottom of the differential mounting member, I have that on my 78 also. I've never really figured out what that is either.

Nope. When I go in there it's sprockets, tensioner, chain, and front seal. Doesn't cost that much more so why not do it all while you're in there. (JMO)