sblake01

Perhaps that is why there's so little interest here............

I just noticed my typo up in my post. That, of course, is borescope not boroscope. Speaking of inexpensive scopes, check this out, a frend sent me the link the other day: http://www.1800endoscope.com/pencam.htm

Mike Cornish (MC75Z) won't be responding to any of this since he passed away late last year. I met Mike at one of the local shows about five years ago and would run into him at many others after. Nice guy, loved his cars and I was sad to see him go. His wife, member STAYZ75Z, or more recently known as GirlyGirl1Z still ocaisonally posts here.

From: http://www.earlydatsun.com/blue.html DATSUN BLUEBIRD P410 (1964 Model) Big changes for 1964. Replacing the English inspired design of the 310/311/312 series was an all new shape by the Italian designer Pininfarina. New too was the unitary construction of the body, rather than the seperate chassis of the previous model. It continued to use the same 1189cc 60hp OHV 4cyl. E-1 engine as the P312. This model has a grille with 4 groups of 3 horizontal bars and 6 vertical bars. The grille has a large round emblem with a gold 'D' in the middle. Tail lights have a large round stop light. Available in 2 door sedan, 4 door sedan (P410) and 5 door wagon (WP410). -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- DATSUN BLUEBIRD P410 (1965 Model) In September 1964 there was a change in the design of the grille, the new grille has 13 horizontal bars and 9 vertical bars, the middle horizontal bar and the 3rd and 7th veretical bars are slightly larger than the rest. The large round emblem has been replaced with a rectangular shaped emblem. It now has rubber blocks on the bumper over riders. --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Yeah, that has shown up in a couple of threads before. I don't much care for it even though a couple of aspects look interesting. Any thought of a mass produced retro 240Z is just that....a thought.

If you need it, you can download the entire FSM here.

I have three spare K&N filters since the 810 and my 78 Z use the same filter so I always have one ready to go when it's time to change it. One I paid full price for and the other three came from the junkyard for a couple of bucks apiece. Since I have a CAI on the Z now with a cone K&N, I guess all the drop ins are for the 810. In my case, I'd say it's worth it but I wouldn't have bought 4 of them at full price.

Carl, I should have been clearer. I was referring to what's in the Datsun/Nissan FSM's. I've also used the term 'VIN' as long as I've been into cars.

That shows that you're getting spark from the coil but it doesn't show that it's getting to the spark plugs. Do you have an inline spark checker? If not, pull a wire off of one of your plugs and put an old but working spark plug in the wire and see is you can see spark jump the gap, or lay that wire on the fender (w/o a plug) and test it like you did the coil wire. I prefer the first test because I deal mainly with electronic ignition and I don't like the thought of possibly sending a spike back into the module.

Actually, it's not a 17mm. I just went through my wrenches and, if you want to get really technical, a 21/32" open end fits it best. Not normally found in most people's toolbox, I must have purchased that one especially for removing that plug back in my 510 days.

You're confusing the model variation with the car serial number. They really didn't become what is referred to as a VIN (17 digit) until 1982 though many of us use the term. At that point, all the letters and numbers applicable would be stamped on the car. (ex.: JN1HZ04S2DXXXXXXX). All you're going to see in the number on a 79 is HS130-XXXXXX or HGS130-XXXXXX is it's a 2+2.

There's three fusible links and a couple of other things in the charging system that may cause problems.

Maybe I'm getting old and my memory is failing me but I don't recall have any real problem removing the fill or plug on my 78. The fill plug is a 17mm and I remember alternating between a regular open end and an offset open end but I got it out.

If you fill it from the drain hole, how do you intend to stop it from leaking out of the drain hole while you're filling it?

Which would put it in basically the same area and the other two but maybe couple of hundred miles further from me. Three cities in a semi close proximity with the same name?

Nice kit, very complete. I especially like the allen head screws. They appear to be stainless steel. I put those on both of my cars since the OEM screws are so easy to strip. (One of the things I miss about no longer working at ACE Hardware-the employee discount). I agree on the connectors. Those look like the stock ones which I have long since replaces with BMW connectors on the 810 and Volvo connectors on the Z. If those work out okay for you, I'll add that seller to my eBay favorites.

Easier to just try the cap first........

That's in his post:

There are actually two cities named Cold Springs, Ca. One in Tuolumme County and one in El Dorado County. Unfortunately one is about 400 miles north of me and the other is about 500 miles notrh. Strange thing is that they are less than 100 miles apart, both in the middle of nowhere, and they have the same name.

Just another thought: I had the same thing happen in my truck a couple of years ago and it turned out that the carbon button in the middle of the distributor cap that rides on the rotor had somehow disloged/deteriorated. New cap-problem solved.

My bad. I just assumed '240Z'.

....but you have a 76......but seriously, great gift. I have a pretty extensive collection of Datsun 'research material' myself. Never know when you or someone might need it.

Are these what you're looking for?

It only took about an hour to do the hood and roof. I went over each section a couple of times. Craftsman 4" buffer/polisher to work it in, 8" random orbital buffer to remove it an a few wipes with a couple of microfiber towels. It seems pretty gentle so, yes, I'd use it on the other cars.