sblake01

If you have a reasonable level of mechanical skills, and can read and understand the procedure as outlined in the factory service manual, you should be able to do it.

Tomohawk, these lenses will be clear in that area not yellow (amber). Unless you're planning to put amber bulbs in them.......

I wonder how much testing will be done on those as far as fitment, leakage etc. I've seen those kind of aftermarket lights on the 'rice' cars.....filled with water! I guess it really doesn't matter. He's got his 20 people and I'm not interested in them anyway.

I only asked because Sandens usually mount in such a way where they can pivot to adjust the belt and the Hitachis mount stationary and use an idler pulley for belt adjustment.

The ZX mount (third pic) appears to be the factory mount which uses a Hitachi compressor. Though a Sankyo/Sanden may fit on it, I've never tried it.

And you can run R134a in it which is cheap and easily found.

Did your car sit for a while before you bought it? If so, you're lucky to get four months out of it. Mine sat for four years and really wouldn't run right until I dealt with the tank. The EFI cars get it a little worse than the carbed cars but in either case you'd be better off cleaning out the tank.

From what I understand, there are quite a few members in Florida. What part of Florida are you in?

If it has a 'chunk of rust' somewhere, a fuel filter won't really help. You'll ultimately need to clean the tank or have it cleaned. Extra fuel filters are just a bandaid. My car had the same problem when I first purchased it. I did the extra filter for about a week and when it clogged again, I replaced the tank. 10 years later, no extra filter but more importantly, no problems.

And I also doubt that you can "take the electronics out of your AFM and install them into the turbo AFM".

Hence, the 'Middle East' comment.

Before someone in the Middle East does.

About 7100 USD/7250 CAD.

Most of us just replace the stopper with a bolt/washer/nut. Not sure if the actual part is still available but the lock nut for it comes up as in stock. The part numbers are: 46518-21000 ASSY-STOPPER PEDAL 08911-30810 NUT-LOCK Part 08911-30810 is superseded by 01225-00331.

This is more complete than the one I posted earlier.

This might help also:

Could be that the 78 fuel injection was replaced with the 76 fuel injection though I don't know why someone would do that as, at least in my opinion and I've been around these cars for a while, the 78 version of the EFI is an improved version of the 76 EFI. As far as the AC goes, if it's a stock 76 factory system, R134a is not good for it in the long run and will cause problems over time due to the fact that it has smaller molecules which makes it prone to leaking in an R12 designed system, and it requires higher pressures to cool properly which will also make it prone to leaking in and system that is not desinged specifically for R134a. That has been argued before but I am also a licensed MVAC/HVAC tech and I base my findings on my experience. The fact that you say "Just needs some more freon I think to perform better" bears out what I'm saying since freon doesn't go away or get used up. The only way it gets low is by leaking.

That may be a 76 engine looking at the split fuel rail and the lack of a dashpot on the linkage but it's basically the same engine that would be in a 78 as Dan said, no carbs on a 78. 4 or 5 speed? It also has factory AC. It appears to be in a little better shape than my 78 was when I first purchased it.

True but he's in France though I never understood your logic anyway.

:cross-eye Didn't he say he was from France?:cross-eye

Those connections from your exhaust that are missing because you have a header have nothing to do with your transmission. That sounds like your EGR piping. You'll have to come up with a solution to that. The header either has to be modified to allow that piping to be hooked up, or the EGR valve will have to be removed or plugged. Otherwise your car won't run worth a damn when you do get the trans figured out.

That's a dashpot. No line connects to it, that cap is just a vent and your's has the tip broken off. It dampens the closing of the throttle just prior to the point where it's completely closed.

Yes it does work here (the double quote). But as far as the JDM vs Euro thing, the S30 in Japan had the amber in the tail lights. People may refer to them as 'Euro' but they're home market tail lights. Yours with the clear in the lenses are just 'JDM style'. I hope you get the people you need to get them done, but they're just not to my taste.

I didn't speak of anything but interest.

Roughly 1/2" by 1 7/16", says 'Interpart' on the front, blank on the back. Sorry for the bad pictures.